ode to nyan cat

Needed to make myself a new wallet, I thought I’d make something fun :D

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The Nyan Cat pop-tart! :D

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That’s not really a wallet, one might say. More like a cardholder, one might also say. I guess one could use it as a card holder. I made myself a tiny wallet this size when I started working at a coffee shop nearly a decade ago. There were no lockers in the backroom, so I made a wallet that would fit in my jeans pocket, so that it’s always on my person as I worked. I’ve been using the small wallet ever since. My bank cards and IDs fit snugly in it. And the few bills I have I’d just fold them up to fit them in.

In case anyone finds a crocheted case of this size useful, I’ve made a chart! :D And a few notes describing how I made it.

chart

The finished size is about 2.5″ x 3.5″.

I used worsted weight yarn in tan, pink and dark pink, a 3mm hook, and a tapestry needle.

  1. With tan, ch 13
  2. sc in every ch across (12 sc)
  3. Repeat row 2
  4. Begin following the chart adding the pink and dark pink, using stranded crochet technique*
  5. At the end of the chart, you’d have 18 rows altogether. Don’t fasten off, crochet 18 more rows with tan. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
  6. With wrong side out, fold the piece in half crosswise, sew the sides together. Weave in ends, turn right side out.

*Tips on stranded crochet for this project:

  • The first row incorporating pink (3rd row of chart) is wrong side, as are all the rows with just pink.
  • All the rows incorporating both pink and dark pink are right side.
  • Changing colours: in the stitch before new colour, yo and draw up a loop with old colour, yo with new colour and pull through loops on hook.
  • Carry the strands of colours not in use as you crochet and wrap the strands in the stitches you make. When working on the right side, carry the strands of yarn on the back of the work. When working on the wrong side, carry the strands of yarn in the front of the work.

Do let me know if you have any questions! :)

Have a good rest of the week and weekend, everyone!

 

 

make a toasty blanket!

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I made this fun blanket for a dear friend who’s having a baby. I thought it could serve as a warm blanket for the stroller and carrides, and maybe also as a floor blanket to roll around on. It also works as a cozy lap blanket for mom! :D

With the bulky yarn and giant hook, it’s a pretty quick project. The finished size is about 26“x30”.

What I used:
Bernat Blanket, 1 ball of “sand” and 1 ball of “taupe” (I had quite a lot of taupe left, probably enough to make 2 pairs of the slippers in this post)
Light yellow yarn for butter pat (I happen to have a chenille texture yarn that I got from the dollar store once, but any yellow yarn would do)
15 mm hook (for toast)
Appropriate size hook for butter pat (depending on the yarn you’re using)
6 mm hook (for facial details)
Tapestry needle

What I did:

With “sand” colour yarn, ch 31.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in every ch across, turn (30 sc).

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat row 2 until piece is about 22″ from beginning.

Bread top shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, 2 sc tog, sc in each sc across until 2 sc left in row, 2 sc tog, turn.

Row 2: repeat row 1 of bread top shaping.

Row 3: ch 1, 2 sc tog, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, turn.

Row 4: ch 1, 2 sc tog twice, sc in each sc until 4 sc left in row, 2 sc tog twice, turn.

Row 5: ch 1, skip first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, turn.

Row 6: ch 1, skip first sc, 3 sc tog, fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach yarn to middle of bread top shaping at row 3, repeat rows 3–6 for the other side of bread top.

Crust:

Attached “taupe” colour yarn to any stitch at the bottom edge of toast, ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc around toast evenly (1 sc in each sc at bottom edge and bread top, 1 sc in each row-end on the sides, making 2 sc in each corner, and making 3 sc tog in the middle of bread top where it dips in), sl st in first sc to finish round.

Crochet 2 more times around toast, fasten off, weave in ends.

Eyes (make 2, or more, to make a multi-eyed monster toast):

With “taupe”, 10 hdc in magic ring, sl st in first hdc to complete round, fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Smile:

With “taupe” and 6 mm hook, ch 9, fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Butter pat:

Crochet a rectangle about 3“x4”. Number of stitches and rows will depend on the yarn you use. When fastening off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Sew eyes, smile and butter pat onto toast with tapestry needle. When sewing on butter pat, I tucked in bits of the bottom edge so it looks like it’s melting.

And here’s Mr. Toast relaxing before going to his new home :)

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Stay toasty, everyone! :D

finger-knitted ear-warmer

Tomorrow is the first day of December! Thought I’d share a super cozy last minute gift to make :D

fingerknitted headband

I’ve mentioned this ear-warmer in a post before, and finally got around to taking all the pictures to make a how-to :D It works best with bulky weight yarn, to keep the fabric soft. I think super bulky would turn out too stiff. Because of the way the knitted fabric curl with finger-knitting, the ear-warmer/headband will also turn out double-thick! So it’s super warm :)

I used:

Bulky weight wool. I used the scrap yarn I have, but one ball of this will be enough to make one headband of solid colour. 2 balls if you want to make one with a contrasting colour.

No need for needles and hooks, just fingers :) but you do need a tapestry needle for sewing the headband together.

Notes:

I learned finger-knitting and joining method from Knitting Without Needles by Anne Weil. She also has a photo tutorial on how to finger-knit here. But to save everyone the trouble of going back and forth between different sites, I’m showing the basics of finger-knitting in the how-to below as well.

The bind-off method is inspired by this finger-knitted blanket video by Good Knit Kisses. The author of the video uses a different finger-knitting method than the one I’m used to, so I just took the basic idea and made up a bind-off method that works for me.

Basically, finger-knitting produces a long strip of knitting. For the headband, we’re going to make 6 strips of knitting and join them together lengthwise as we knit.

It might take longer to make the headband if you’re learning finger-knitting for the first time. But with some practice, the headband took me a couple of hours in front of the TV to finish :)

Ready? Let’s knit! :D

We first make a setup row. Take your left hand, take the yarn end and hold it between your thumb and hand, then take the yarn behind your middle finger, in front of your fourth finger, and behind your pinky.

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Wrap the yarn around your pinky, take it behind your fourth finger, in front of your middle finger, and behind your index finger.

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Wrap the yarn around your index finger, then take it behind your middle finger, in front of your fourth finger, and behind your pinky again.

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Wrap the yarn around your pinky, take it behind your fourth finger, and in front of your middle finger, than hold the yarn between your index finger and middle finger.

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Straighten out the wrapping a bit, it will look something like the picture below, with the yarn end still held between your thumb and your hand, and the working yarn tail between your index finger and middle finger.

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Now, starting from your pinky, take the lower loop of yarn, and pull it over the upper loop of yarn and over your finger, so that you would have only one loop of yarn left on your finger. Repeat on your fourth finger and middle finger.

Then take the yarn end between your thumb and hand, and swing it to the back of your hand between your index finger and middle finger, like so. We’ve now completed the set up row.

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We now begin our first row. Wrap the working yarn around your index finger, from left to right, take it behind your middle finger, in front of your fourth finger, and behind your pinky.

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Wrap the working yarn around your pinky, take it behind your fourth finger, in front of your middle finger, and hold it between your index finger and middle finger. The working yarn tail will always rest between your middle finger and index finger after each row.

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Starting with your pinky, pull the lower loop on your finger over the upper loop and over your finger. Repeat with your fourth finger, middle finger, and index finger. We’ve completed a row!

Repeat the steps from “we now begin our first row” to “we’ve completed a row” 39 more times. So that altogether we will have 40 rows.

Note on size: 40 rows fits me fine, since headbands are supposed to be a bit snug to stay on the head, and because of the loose gauge of finger-knitting the headband will stretch. But the length of your knitted strip may also vary according to the kind of yarn you use or the tension of your knitting. You can wrap the knitted strip around your head after 40 rows, and see if the ends will meet with a bit of stretching, and if you need to add or take out a row or two. Or if you’re making it for somebody else, make the knitted strip a couple of inches shorter than the person’s estimate head circumference. I think an average adult head is 22″ around.

As you knit, the right side of the work will be facing the back of your hand, the wrong side of the work will be facing up.

After the 40th row is complete, we now begin to bind off the strip. Wrap the working yarn around your index finger from left to right. Hold the yarn between your index finger and middle finger.

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Pull the lower loop over the upper loop and over your index finger.

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Place the remaining loop on your index finger onto your middle finger.

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Take the working yarn and wrap it around your middle finger, from left to right. Pull taut (but not too tight) the working yarn by holding it between your index and middle fingers. Pull the two lower loops on your middle finger over the upper loop (working yarn loop) and over your middle finger.

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Transfer the remaining loop on your middle finger onto your fourth finger.

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Wrap the working yarn around your fourth finger, from left to right. Pull taut the working yarn tail by gripping it between your index and middle fingers. Pull the two lower loops on your fourth finger over the upper loop and over your fourth finger.

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Transfer the remaining loop on your fourth finger to your pinky. Wrap the working yarn around your pinky, from left to right. Pull taut the working yarn tail by gripping it with your index and middle fingers. Pull the two lower loops on your pinky over the upper loop and your pinky.

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You will have one remaining loop left on your pinky.

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Without turning the knitted piece, transfer the loop on your pinky to your index finger, with the right side of the work facing you, positioned like the picture below.

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We are now knitting the second strip, and joining it to the first strip as we knit. Wrap the working yarn around your fingers as usual to knit one row.

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Then, position the knitted strip and your hand like the picture below. Note that the right side of the knitted piece is still facing up.

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Insert your index finger from under the loop into the outermost loop of the second row from your hand — the highlighted loop in the picture below.

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You will now have two loops on your index finger.

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Then wrap the working yarn around your fingers as usual to knit the row. When you get to your index finger, pull the two lower loops over the upper loop.

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And in every row hereafter, before wrapping the working yarn around your fingers to knit the row, insert your index finger into the outermost loop of the knitted strip — the highlighted loops in the picture below.

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When the second strip is complete, bind off as shown before, with one loop remaining.

If you’re making a solid colour headband, you can continue knitting until you have 6 knitted strips altogether. If you’d like a contrasting colour, change colour after knitting the first 2 strips, as follows.

Make a loop with new colour and place loop in the working loop, like so.

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Tie the yarn end of the new yarn to the working yarn tail of the previous colour. You might want to put a pen into the new yarn loop to stabilize it when tying. Cut off the previous colour.

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Then knit with new yarn and join it to the previously knitted strip, as shown before. Knit two strips with the new yarn. Then change to previous colour, and knit two strips.

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After binding off the 6th strip, leave a long tail for sewing, and cut off yarn. Pull the yarn end through the working loop to fasten off.

Now we sew the headband together. With wrong side facing, sew the two short ends of the headband together using a loose mattress stitch. Because of the loose gauge of finger-knitting, some stitches are going to be quite loose. Ensure that your needle is passing through two strands of yarn on each side in each stitch.

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After sewing the seam together, don’t fasten off. Pull the sewing yarn tight to cinch the seam. Turn piece right side out. Wrap the sewing yarn firmly around the middle a couple of times, with the top and bottom edges of the headband folding into the centre, like so.

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Fasten off the sewing yarn by tying it to the beginning yarn end. Weave in ends.

Now we make the small strip in the middle of the cinch. Finger-knit a piece that is 6 rows long, and bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Wrap the piece around the cinched middle of the headband, sew the ends of the small piece together, then sew through all layers of the headband a couple of times through the middle. Fasten off by tying the sewing yarn tail to the beginning yarn end of the small knitted piece in the middle.

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And we’ve done it! A double-thick, super warm, (literally) handmade ear-warmer! :D

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I hope my photos are clear. But if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below and I will try my best to explain, and other visitors will benefit from your questions too, so don’t be shy :)

Wishing you a happy week!

 

ramen cardigan

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I wanted to make a cozy, sort of slouchy fall cardigan that one would want to relax in. I was going to name it something poetic like “lakeside” to evoke the relaxed cottage vibe, but then I posted an in-progress picture on social media and one of my friends commented that it looked like ramen. And I thought, that’s a much better better name for it! After all, I can relate to relaxing at home, watching movies on TV and eating ramen more than I can relate to relaxing at the cottage, which I’ve actually never done in my life.

This is a very easy cardigan to make. It is based on the one row lace pattern by Magda Makes. I made an infinity scarf for a friend one year using the pattern and had a lot of fun, I figure I would make an entire sweater with it :D

The cardigan is made of 5 rectangular pieces. These pieces are seamed together, then a 2x2 rib is worked along the front pieces and back of neck for collar.

It has a loose-fitting body with fitted sleeves. It’s also made with a loose gauge, so it’s pretty plushy.

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Measurements of my cardigan:
Bust = 40″
Sleeve circumference = 11″
Length = 21″

Size adjustments:
I made the cardigan to fit me, but since the construction and stitch pattern is so simple, it wouldn’t be too difficult to adjust size. To increase or decrease width, add or subtract multiple of 4 stitches. 4 stitches = approx. 1″

I used:
Worsted weight yarn, approx. 1000 yards (more yarn will be needed if you’re making a larger cardigan)
7 mm straight needles
6 mm circular needles, 29″

What I did:

Back

With larger needles, CO 80.

Work k2, p2 rib for 8 rows.

Work 1 row lace pattern by Magda Makes until piece is 21″, or desired length, from CO edge. Fasten off loosely.

Right and Left Front (make 2)

CO 28.

Work k2, p2 rib for 8 rows.

Work 1 row lace pattern by Magda Makes until piece is 21″, or desired length, from CO edge. Fasten off loosely.

Sleeves (make 2)

CO 40.

Work k2, p2 rib for 8 rows.

Work 1 row lace pattern by Magda Makes until piece is 17″, or desired length, from CO edge. Fasten off loosely.

Collar

With right sides together, sew shoulder seams together.

With smaller needles and right side facing, pick up an even number of stitches evenly up the front, across back the neck, and along the other front. (approx. 1 st per row-end up/down front, and 1 st in each st across back of neck works for me)

Work k2, p2 rib for 8 rows, fasten off purl-wise.

Assembly

Find mid-point of sleeve, match this point to the shoulder seam, pin sleeve to body, then sew sleeve to body with right sides together. Repeat for the other sleeve. Sew sleeve and side seams together. Weave in ends.

Throw it on and be cozy! :D

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Happy autumn! :D

 

water’s edge, a remake

 

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A remake of the Pastel dress, with a yarn that reminds me of the seashore — the different shades of blue in the distance, the greens of algae and seaweed washed up on the rocks.

Similar to the remake of the Ginkgo top, this sweater uses the same lace pattern as the top of the Pastel dress (which was a variation of the Ginkgo lace pattern), minus the armhole shaping and with a simpler boat neck shaping.

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The yarn I used was Mary Maxim Prism in Still Waters. I love this yarn. It’s affordable, super washable, the colours are amazing, has a nice drape. I wish there is a Mary Maxim closer to where I live… *sigh*

It has a very simple shape and stitch pattern, so I imagine it would look nice with a variegated yarn like Noro, or a sparkly yarn for fancier occasions :)

I used:

Light worsted weight yarn, approx. 700 yards

5 mm and 4.5 mm hooks

Tapestry needle for sewing

Sweater measures: 34″ around, 19.5″ in length

Length is easily adjustable by working more or fewer rows. Width can be adjusted by adding or subtracting stitches in the foundation ch by multiples of 6.

6 stitches = 1 3/8”

Pattern:

Stitch pattern:
Fan = [dc, 2 ch, dc, 2 ch, dc] in same space

Front: 

With 5 mm hook, ch 85.

Row 1: dc in 6th ch from hook, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch, [skip next 2 ch, fan in next ch, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch] to end, [dc, ch 2, dc] in last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, skip first dc, fan in dc between fans, [dc in 2nd dc of next fan, fan in next dc between fans] to end, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

Row 3: ch 5, dc in 1st dc, dc in 2nd dc of next fan, [fan in next dc between fans, dc in 2nd dc of next fan] to end, [dc, ch 2, dc] in turning ch, turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until there are 34 rows altogether, ending with row 2.

Neck shaping:

Row 35: work in pattern to the 4th fan of the row, dc in 2nd dc of the 4th fan, dc in next dc between fans, turn.

Row 36: ch 5, dc in next dc, dc in the 2nd dc of next fan, work in pattern till end, turn.

Row 37–38: work in pattern. Fasten off.

Attach yarn to the other corner of row 34, repeat rows 35–38.

Back:

Repeat pattern for front until neck shaping. Work 2 more rows so that there are 36 rows altogether, ending with row 2.

Neck shaping:

Row 37–38: repeat rows 35 and 36 of front. Fasten off.

Attach yarn to the other corner of row 36, repeat rows 37–38.

Assembly:

With right sides together and wrong sides facing, sew shoulder seams together.

With right sides together and wrong sides facing, sew side seams together, starting at the top of the 11th row from the top of the sweater.

Turn sweater right side out.

Edging: with 4.5 mm hook

Neckline: attach yarn to a dc (not part of a fan) on the back of neck. ch 1, sc in same dc, [sc in 1st dc of fan, sc in next ch 2 sp, skip 2nd dc of fan, sc in next ch 2 sp, sc in 3rd dc of fan, sc in next dc] around, sl st in beginning sc of found, fasten off.

Armholes: attach yarn to any space on the armhole. We will be crocheting into the side of the rows, or what I call “row-ends”. ch 3, work 2 dc in each row-end around, sl st in top of beginning ch 3, fasten off. Repeat for the other armhole.

Bottom edge: attach yarn to any ch 2 space, ch 3, work 1 dc in every ch 2 space, every base of a fan, and every base of a dc, sl st in top of beginning ch 3, fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

And it’s done! :D

Here’s an in-between shot in which I was caught adjusting the necklace, which I thought turned out kind of cool and stylish :D

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Hope you enjoy the remake! Have a happy Saturday! :D

 

remake! ginkgo shrug

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This shrug uses the same lace pattern as the ginkgo top (and almost the same stitch count!), but with much heavier yarn and larger hooks. Basically, a blown up version of the ginkgo lace pattern. And no neck shaping! Isn’t that nice? :D Such is the beauty of shrugs.

I thought it would make a nice piece for late summer nights easing into fall.

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The shrug measures 38.5″ from cuff to cuff, and 20″ from neckline to bottom edge. It’s a very quick make, took me 2 evenings to finish while watching TV :)

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What I used:

Worsted weight yarn, approx. 700 yards

6mm and 5.5mm hooks

Tapestry needle for sewing.

Pattern:

Note for size modifications: to increase the length from cuff to cuff, i.e. longer sleeves, add multiples of 6 ch to foundation chain. 6 stitches = 1.75″

With larger hook, ch 136.

Begin with row 2 of the ginkgo lace pattern (but slightly modified, because we’re skipping the first row of dc’s in the original pattern) as follows:

Row 2: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch, [skip 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch] across, skip 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Turn.

The rest is just the same as the ginkgo lace pattern. To make things easier I’ve pasted it below.

Note: shell = 5 dc in a stitch, or 3 dc in a stitch

Row 3: (WS) ch 5, skip shell in the beginning of row, dc in next dc, [ch 2, dc in 3rd dc of shell, ch 2, skip rest of shell, dc in next dc] across, ch 2, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Row 4: (RS) ch 3, 5 dc in next dc, [dc in dc, 5 dc in next dc across], dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Turn.

Row 5: ch 5, dc in 3rd dc of shell, [skip rest of shell, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in 3rd dc of shell] across, ch 2, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Row 6: ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next dc, [5 dc in next dc, dc in next dc] across, 3 dc in 3rd st of turning ch.

Repeat rows 3–6 until piece measures approx. 18″ from beginning, or desired length. Ending with row 4 or 6. Fasten off.

Finishing:

Fold piece in half lengthwise with wrong side facing out. Sew seam together, starting from the cuff edge, along the long side of the piece, sew 5.5″ towards the centre of the piece (about 3 and a half shells). Repeat on the other side. Turn piece right side out.

Edging:

Neckline/front/back: With larger hook and right side facing, attach yarn to any stitch along the last row crocheted, ch 3, dc in each dc except the 3rd dc of each shell. When crocheting along the bottom side of the shrug (i.e. along the foundation ch), work 2 dc in each 2 ch space, and 1 dc in the base of each shell, but skip the ch at the base of a dc. Crochet around until end of round, sl st in top of beginning ch, ch 3. Do not turn, dc in each dc around, sl st in top of beginning ch, fasten off.

Cuffs: With smaller hook and right side facing, attach yarn to any space on cuff edge. The stitches will be crocheted into the side ends of the rows, or “row-ends”. ch 3, 2 dc tog in each row-end around, sl st in top of beginning ch, ch 3. Do not turn, dc in each dc around, fasten off. Repeat on the other cuff.

Weave in ends.

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Happy crocheting! :D

 

tiny sushi, episode two!

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Today we’re going to make tiny nigiri :D

Here is my hand in the picture for scale…

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It only consists of 8 rows altogether, so it’s a super quick make. The assembly instruction sounds more complicated than it actually is. I will be using some origami terms in hopes that it will make it a bit easier to understand, but as always please feel free to drop me a note if you want clarifications :)

I used:

A bit of light worsted weight yarn in white and other nigiri colours (I was using a variegated orange for salmon and yellow for egg)

3mm hook

A bit of black yarn (optional — if adding seaweed wrapping)

What I did:

*turning ch does not count as a stitch.

Row 1: with white, leaving 12″ tail for sewing in the beginning, ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, turn.

Rows 2–4: ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sc, turn.

Rows 5 (this will be the right side): fasten off white, switch to nigiri colour, ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sc in back loop only, turn.

Rows 6–8: ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sc, turn. Fasten off at the end of row 8, leaving long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Here’s where some origami moves might be handy… we’re just going to need valley fold and mountain fold:

 

 

(source)

So, we’ve crocheted a narrow strip. With right side facing, valley fold one of the short ends to the middle of the strip. The middle of the strip is marked by the “ridge” created by stitches crocheted in the back loops only (row 5). Using long yarn end, secure the fold by sewing the end to the middle and sewing the side seams together. Repeat with the other short end. Fasten off and cut the colour yarn tail, but don’t cut off the white yarn tail.

Then, still with right side facing, mountain fold the strip in half along the middle “ridge”. Secure the fold with a few stitches through all the layers of the nigiri with the white yarn tail, being careful not to let the stitches show on the egg/salmon side. Fasten off, weave in ends.

If desired, wrap and tie black yarn around the nigiri to imitate seaweed.

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They make great earrings and magnet, and maybe miniature dollhouse food?

Have an awesome week, everyone!

 

tiny sushi, episode one!

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Tiny and easy. Looks like I’ve got a bit of a theme going after the tiny donuts!

I have a couple of sweater patterns that I’ve been hoping to share, but I just haven’t had the time or energy to sit down and write it. So for now, tiny and easy it is :)

These are super quick to make! And they are very tiny. Here is my hand in the picture for scale. They’re about 7/8″ in diameter.

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I just happen to have scraps of variegated green and orange yarn at home, they worked beautifully for avocado/cucumber and salmon.

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The “pattern” is not at all original. A quick search on Ravelry would yield a couple of crochet sushi pattern made in the same method, like this one (ingenious! I actually made one for a sushi-loving friend years ago), and this one. But I suppose the stitch count that I came up with is particular to these tiny maki rolls, so I thought I’d share it. It’s also not so much a pattern but more like a recipe. One can easily adjust the length and width to include more fillings for the maki rolls.

I used:

tiny bits of black, white and other colours for desired fillings, in worsted or light worsted weight yarn.

3mm hook

tapestry needle

What I did:

Note: turning ch does not count as a stitch.

Row 1: Using filling colour yarn, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: sc in each of next 2 sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: sc in each of next 2 sc, switch to white yarn, fasten off filling yarn, ch 1.

Rows 4 — 12 (9 rows): repeat row 2. At the end of row 12, switch to black yarn, fasten off white yarn, ch 1.

Rows 13 — 24 (12 rows): repeat row 2. Fasten off, leaving a 10″ tail for sewing. Weave in ends.

Assembly:

Starting from the end with the filling colour, roll up the strip tightly. Sew end of strip to the maki roll, then sew through the diameter of the maki roll in different directions a couple of times. Fasten off, weave in ends.

And we’re done! Easy, right? I found it pretty hard to stop making them :S But what can one do with so many tiny sushi rolls? They’re very light, so great for earrings! I’ve made these yam roll earrings for the shop :D

Photo 2015-05-24, 10 33 18 PM

And I made a futomaki brooch sort of in a free-form style. It is listed in my Etsy shop — customizable and freshly made-to-order! :D

Photo 2015-05-29, 9 17 05 PM

Photo 2015-06-02, 12 13 05 PM

And here we have it, futomaki and friends :D

P1070697

But wait, we’re not done with sushi making! In our next episode we will make easy nigiri! Stay tuned! :D

 

 

 

 

let’s make tiny donuts! :D

And the tiny donut party continues! *throws glitter*Photo 2015-04-04, 11 47 19 AM
Before digging our hands into yarn and making more donuts, we need to pick a winner for the giveaway!I used this simple random name-picker tool. And the winner is…

giveawaywinner

DARLENE!!! Congratulations!!! :D *throws more glitter*

(Now we all gotta imagine ourselves all glittery from head to toe, ’tis how a virtual party works, except we’re not really covered in glitter and we don’t have to spend hours washing it out of our hair only to find more glitter on us weeks later — ’tis the beauty of virtual party :D and if you’re receiving this post by email you might want to click on to the actual blog so you can get more of the glitter experience ;) anyway, I digress)

Darlene please send me an email at genuinemudpie(at)gmail(dot)com, letting me know which 3 donuts you want and your mailing address :)

Thank you everyone for participating, and leaving all the wonderful comments about this blog (and donuts!)! It means the world to me that you’re enjoying reading about my crafty adventures! I look forward to sharing more craftiness with you! :D

And now, we make more tiny donuts! :D

This is actually more like a recipe than a pattern. My donut turns out to be just shy of an inch across. You can make it smaller or larger by using a lighter (fingering, embroider thread?) or heavier (worsted) yarn, and changing hook size accordingly (2mm for finer yarn and 3.5mm for worsted, for example). You can also make a larger donut by increasing the number of beginning ch by multiples of 2, and repeating row 3 a couple of times (more about that in the recipe below). I wouldn’t start with fewer stitches than what the “recipe” calls for though, it can be really tricky to manage such small number of stitches.

I initially developed this recipe to make donut earrings for my shop. It took a few attempts to get the size right and the icing looking the way I wanted. I think I’ve perfected the recipe now :) AND!! The entire donut is only made of 5 rows! You can make an army of them in an evening :D

I used:

Small amount of sport weight yarn in donut and icing colours (tan, brown, pink, yellow, white, etc.)

Embroidery thread in sprinkle colours

3mm hook, 2.5mm hook or smaller (for pulling in ends)

Needles for sewing and embroidering

Recipe:

Round 1: With donut colour (i.e. tan), ch 8, join with first ch to form ring.

NOTE: The side that is facing you (i.e. the front of the work) is the INSIDE of the donut. For the first 3 rounds you’re working with the inside of the donut facing you. So the back of the work is the outside of the donut.

Here I have finished the first 3 rounds of the donut, crocheting with the inside facing me.

Photo 2015-04-11, 10 57 57 AM

Here is what the outside of the donut looks like after the first 3 rounds.

Photo 2015-04-11, 11 00 27 AM

Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in first ch, 2 sc in next ch, [sc in next ch, 2 sc in next ch] around, sl st in first sc to join (12 sc).

Round 3: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join (12 sc).

NOTE: If you’remaking a larger donut and started with a few more beginning ch’s, you can repeat round 3 one or two more times.

Round 4: Attach icing colour, fasten off donut colour. TURN (now you’re working with the outside of the donut facing you), ch 1, sl st in each sc around in the front loop only, sl st in first sl st to join (12 sl st). (Be careful not to pull too tight while making the sl st in this round, otherwise the next row would be difficult.)

Here I’m working on found 4, inserting my hook in the front loop of a stitch.

Photo 2015-04-11, 11 05 21 AM

NOTE: If you’remaking a larger donut and started with more beginning ch’s, you can repeat round 3 one or two more times with icing colour before starting round 5.

Round 5: ch 1, TURN (now you’re working with the inside of the donut facing you again), working in the front loop only, sc in first st, 2 sc tog over next 2 st, [sc in next st, 2 sc tog over next 2 st] around, sl st in first sc to join (8 sc), leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

Sew the final icing round to the first donut round using whip stitch, matching the stitches.

Photo 2015-04-11, 11 23 19 AM

I find it really difficult to sew the donut together with stuffing inside, and because the donut is so tiny I don’t feel it needs stuffing. I just pull all the yarn ends into the donut with a crochet hook after it’s sewn together.

Embroider sprinkles to your heart’s content :)

Pull all yarn ends and thread ends into the inside of the donut with a small crochet hook.

And here we have it, a tiny donut! :D

Photo 2015-04-04, 11 49 01 AM

 

If you’re making these donuts, let me know what flavours you’re making, I’d love to see them! :D

Hope you have a wonderfully sparkling weekend! :D *throws glitter*

 

ode to luna

rad raddish

I like Luna Lovegood, and her radish earrings (though apparently they’re supposed to be dirigible plums). I made a pair when I was trying to come up with cool ideas for earrings to put in the shop, so I thought I’d share the pattern too because I think radish earrings are also pretty awesome for spring.

I used:

Deep pink, dark green and white yarn in sport or DK weight

3mm and 1.5mm hooks

Yarn ends for stuffing

Earring hooks

Jump rings

Jewelry pliers

Needle for sewing

Fabric glue (or white glue, but preferably fabric glue because it’s waterproof)

Pattern:

The radish is worked from top down. Do not join at end of round.

Rnd 1: With pink and larger hook, 10 sc in magic ring.

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (10 sc), switch to white, fasten off pink.

Rnd 3: [2 sc tog over next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc] two times, 2 sc tog over next 2 sc.

Rnd 4: [2 sc tog over next 2 sc] two times, leaving a long tail, fasten off. Stuff radish.

Weave yarn tail through the remaining 5 stitches at opening, pull tight. With 1.5mm hook and the yarn tail, ch 3, fasten off. Put a small dab of fabric glue on the yarn end to shape it to a point.

The leaves are worked continuously, there’s no fastening off in between, but I’ve broken up the instruction so it’s easier to read.

With green and larger hook, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in next 2 ch,

ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next 2 ch, sl st in the very first ch,

ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next 3 ch, sl st in very first ch, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

Assembly

Roll up the base of the leaves, using the yarn tail, sew a few stitches at the base of the leaves to tighten and secure. Sew base of the leave to the top of the radish.

Repeat for the other radish.

Attach jump ring to the base of the leaves of the radish. Attach earring hook to the jump ring.

 

Hope you’re enjoying the spring sunshine!

 

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