wicker

Made with sim­ple V‑stitch, the result­ing tex­ture reminds me of wick­er furniture. 

It’s an open front, light cardi­gan with a seam­less con­struc­tion. That’s right — no sewing, no sewing at all :)

Sim­ple stitch pat­tern means easy to cus­tomize. The size I made is 34″. I’ve added sug­ges­tions for increas­ing size in ital­ics.

I used one ball of Lion Brand Pound of Love and a 5.5 mm hook.

The cardi­gan is made top down.

Stitch pat­tern:

v‑stitch (v‑st): dc in stitch indi­cat­ed, ch 1, dc in same stitch

Back

ch 66

Add 6 ch to the begin­ning ch for every inch you’d like to increase.

Row 1: v‑st in 6th ch from hook, [sk 2 ch, v‑st in next ch] till last 3 ch, dc in last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as a dc through­out), [v‑st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turn­ing ch.

Repeat row 2 eleven (11) more times. Fas­ten off. 13 rows altogether.

For larg­er size, work 2 more rows for every 6 ch added to the begin­ning ch.

Right front

Turn piece upside down, so that the begin­ning ch is at the top. Attach yarn to top right cor­ner of piece.

Row 1: ch 3, v‑st in the base of the v‑st from row 1 of back (it would be upside down), con­tin­ue to work one v‑st in the base of each of the next five v‑st from row 1 of back, dc in the base of next v‑st.

For larg­er size, work 1 more v‑st for every 6 ch added to the begin­ning ch.

Row 2: ch 3, [v‑st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turn­ing ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 eleven (11) more times. Fas­ten off. 13 rows altogether.

Left front

Re-posi­tion the piece so that the unworked side of the shoul­der is at top right. Attach yarn to top right corner.

Repeat rows 1–13 of left front. Don’t fas­ten off.

Join front and back

Join row: ch 3, v‑st in every ch 1 sp across left front, dc in last dc of left front, dc in first dc of back, v‑st in every ch 1 sp across back, dc in last dc of back, dc in first dc of right front, v‑st in every ch 1 sp across right front, dc in last dc of right front, turn.

Body

Row 1 after join­ing: ch 3, v‑st in every ch 1 sp until under arm, v‑st in between the last dc of front and first dc of back, mark v‑st just made, v‑st in every ch 1 sp until under arm, v‑st in between last dc of back and first dc of front, mark v‑st just made, v‑st in every ch 1 sp, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, [v‑st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turn­ing ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until piece is 19″ from shoul­der, or desired length. Fas­ten off.

Sleeve

Sleeve is made in the round, turn­ing at the end of every row. You will now be work­ing along the side or ends of the rows in the front and back pieces. You will be mak­ing v‑st around the dc (which I will call the hor­i­zon­tal bar below) and in the join­ing point between rows (which I will call join­ing point below — it is either the top of a dc or turn­ing ch, so you can just make a v‑st into it like you would usu­al­ly do into a dc or ch).

Row 1: Attach yarn to the base of marked v‑st in under­arm, ch 4, dc in same place. sk the first hor­i­zon­tal bar, [v‑st in next join­ing point, sk the next hor­i­zon­tal bar and the next join­ing point, v‑st in next hor­i­zon­tal bar, sk the next join­ing point and hor­i­zon­tal bar] to end of round, sl st in 3rd ch of turn­ing ch, turn.

This might help illus­trate where I’m putting the stitch­es. The cir­cles are the join­ing points, and the dash­es are the hor­i­zon­tal bars. The v’s are the v‑st.

Row 2: ch 3, [v‑st in ch 1 sp] around, sl st in top of begin­ning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until sleeve is 17.5″ long, or desired length. End on a wrong side row so next row begin with right side fac­ing. Don’t fas­ten off.

Cuff

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as sc), [sc in next ch 1 sp, sc in between two v‑st] around, sl st in first sc, don’t turn.

Row 2: ch 1, in the back loop only, sc in every sc around, sl st in first sc, don’t turn.

Repeat row 2 two (2) more times. Fas­ten off. Weave in ends.

Repeat for the oth­er sleeve and cuff.

Front bor­der / collar

Row 1 (RS): Attach yarn to bot­tom cor­ner of right front, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc around every hor­i­zon­tal row end (hor­i­zon­tal bar as described above in sleeve) up along front, across back of neck, and down front again, turn.

Row 2 (WS): ch 2, in front loop only, hdc in every hdc to end, turn.

Row 3 (RS): ch 2, in back loop only, hdc in every hdc to end, turn.

Repeat rows 2–3 once more (or until desired width), then work row 2 again once. Don’t fas­ten off.

Bot­tom edge

Row 1 (WS): ch 1, 1 sc in every row-end of the hdc rows in bor­der, 1 sc in every st across body of cardi­gan, then 1 sc in every row-end of bor­der, turn.

Row 2 (RS): ch 1, in back loop only 1 sc in every sc. Fas­ten off, weave in ends.

 

All fin­ished. No sewing, as promised :)

Please feel free to leave a com­ment below if you have any ques­tions! Hap­py crocheting :)

 

19 thoughts on “wicker

  1. This is such a love­ly sweater, which looks so good on you. I may even attempt it, once I get the gar­den all plant­ed and the chick­ens and their house bet­ter organized…it may have to wait until win­ter, sigh!

  2. Que ce gilet est élégant et comme il vous va bien! Je voudrais vous remerci­er de tout coeur pour la gen­til­lesse avec laque­lle vous partagez vos modéles, pour le temps que vous passez à faire des tutos très clairs, c’est très généreux. J’ai aus­si beau­coup apprécié votre petit reportage sur votre vis­ite à New York, illus­tré par de bien belles photos.Recevez mes plus ami­cales pensées de France.

  3. I love this sweater so much! I am going to make this one. Thank you for sharing .

  4. Hi Margie, thank you for vis­it­ing! For a cardi­gan that fits 48″ around, the back piece would need to mea­sure 24″. (for ref­er­ence, my cardi­gan fits 34″ around and the back piece mea­sures 17″.) So you would need to add 7″ to the back piece. The gauge is 6 st for every inch. So you would need to add 42 ch to the begin­ning ch of the back piece, there­fore begin­ning with ch 108. When you get to the front pieces, just fol­low the ital­i­cized part of the instruc­tion. Hope this helps! Hap­py crocheting!

  5. I love this pat­tern but I’m stuck! I’ve fin­ished the back and both front pieces. I’m con­fused about how to join them togeth­er; once I’ve fin­ished the row of V stitch­es across the left front piece, the pat­tern says to then place a dc in the first stitch of the back…I just can’t fig­ure out what that means. This is my very first sweater, so maybe this should be obvi­ous, but alas, it’s not to me! :)

    Thanks for such a love­ly pat­tern and for any help you might be able to give me.

  6. Hi Rachel, thanks for giv­ing the pat­tern a try and sor­ry about the delay in reply!
    When you’re join­ing the front and back pieces, after fin­ish the row of v‑st across the left front, you’ll be work­ing a dc into the dc on the top right cor­ner of the back piece. It would be on the last row you worked on the back piece. It might help if you lay the gar­ment flat fac­ing you, with the work­ing row at the top. You’re just cre­at­ing an arm­hole. Hope this helps! Please feel free to write again if you need more info! Hap­py crocheting!

  7. Thank you so much for writ­ing back! I final­ly fig­ured it out! It took me a bit, and I think it being my first sweater had a lot to do with it, but I’m on a roll now. I’m almost done with the body, and I’m real­ly excit­ed to fin­ish it up. I’ll have pics on Rav­el­ry once it’s done. Thanks again for mak­ing the pat­tern (and tech sup­port!) available. :)

  8. I’m glad it’s work­ing out Rachel! Would love to see pic­tures! Thank you again for try­ing out the pattern!

  9. Love it so much! I just bought the yarn so now I need to wait till arrive… This would be my first cro­chet wear­able :)… I just real­ly hope I fin­ish it, because I get bored real­ly fast…I put it aside and jump again to make amigu­ru­mis :P
    Thank you so much for all your pat­terns!!! <3

  10. Thanks so much Paula! This is a pret­ty quick make, so I hope you have fun with the pat­tern. Hap­py cro­chet­ing! :D

  11. Could you please tell me how big the back and fronts should be before join­ing them all? I have done the 13 rows plus 6 extra because I’m doing a big­ger size and the length is only 7”. I don’t think that is big enough for the armholes.

  12. Hi Pauline, thank you for giv­ing the pat­tern a try! I have 6.5″ from shoul­der to under­arm with 13 rows, where one row is about half an inch. If you have done 19 rows and reach 7″, could it be pos­si­ble that you’re using a lighter yarn or small­er hook? But you can always just keep going until you reach the length you need, and just fol­low same the instruc­tions for the sleeves, the pat­tern is writ­ten to be adapt­able :) Hope this helps! Hap­py crocheting!

  13. In Row 1 of the right front does the six more v stitch­es go in the same stitch or in the next 6 stitches???

    Thanks, Pam

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