this week’s levitation

levitate9

I’m real­ly rather proud of this one.

 

levitate10

Inspired by this quote:
“Drink­ing a cup of tea, I stop the war.” — Stephen Levine

 

Photo 2013-03-27 11 28 14 PM

Test shot, but I liked how it turned out.

 

Photo 2013-03-27 11 31 02 PM

Dou­ble lev­i­ta­tion! Need more prac­tice, but it was fun :D

 

levitate13

In my par­ents’ back­yard, enjoy­ing one of the first warm days of spring.

 

levitate14

Say­ing hi to my neigh­bours in the build­ing across the street.

 

Float on! :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

this week’s awesome finds

Very cute felt­ed wool rings from Dans le Town­house.

 

Love the burnt meringue on top! Spot­ted on Rav­el­ry.

 

A paint­ing a day, on a petri dish. Each a stun­ning­ly beau­ti­ful uni­verse. By Klari Reis.

 

Per­ler bead bow tie! :D From Morn­ing Cre­ativ­i­ty.

 

Styl­ish t‑shirt dress for tots. My niece would look so adorable in it. I’m sure I can also mod­i­fy the pat­tern to make one big enough for me :P From Par­don my Chaos.

 

This is hilar­i­ous and so awe­some, makes great par­ty hats! From Hav­ing Fun at Home.

 

Cheer­ful bike seat cov­er from And Sew We Craft.

 

May your week­end be filled with peace and the hope of growth and new life that the spring sea­son brings!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(almost) daily levitation

levitate2

 

I’ve long been fas­ci­nat­ed by Nat­su­mi Hayashi’s lev­i­ta­tion pho­tos. I have recur­ring dreams about float­ing around in air, and her pho­tos just reminds me so much of those dreams. 

It’s pret­ty good exer­cise, I think, jump­ing repeat­ed­ly to get a good pho­to. Giv­en that I don’t real­ly exer­cise at all, I try to not to strain myself by tak­ing just one pic­ture a day. You can see my very first attempt in this post. The pic­ture above is a sec­ond attempt. Mike joined in the fun too :D

levitate1

 

My sub­se­quent attempts over the week. Loung­ing around on my day off…

levitate3

 

Get­ting some yarn…

levitate4

 

My best attempt yet! So proud of this one. Love the lit­tle clouds in the cor­ner, and Flash Point on TV!

levitate5

 

My most recent attempt. Tea time (please excuse the bag of garbage wait­ing to go out…).

levitate6

 

I got a lot of inspi­ra­tions from this pho­tog­ra­ph­er, a fel­low Cana­di­an from Van­cou­ver! :D 

Also, check out this inter­view of Nat­su­mi Hayashi on the New York Times blog! So many peo­ple in the com­ments also said that they have fly­ing dreams. What would Jung say about that…

Hop­ing to lev­i­tate out­doors on the grass when the snow melts!

Have a splen­did Sun­day, everyone!

 

Alright don’t wor­ry even if things end up a bit too heavy
We’ll all float on alright.
– Mod­est Mouse

 

 

sideways

sideways

Side­ways is a pullover that is worked in one piece in a side­ways man­ner, from one sleeve cuff to the oth­er, form­ing a her­ring­bone-like pat­tern. Then it is fold­ed in half along the shoul­ders, with the side under­arm seams sewn together. 

 

sideways diagram

 

I bought a giant ball of cheap and cheer­ful Red Heart acrylic to exper­i­ment while mak­ing up this pat­tern. Turned out a lit­tle stiff but I don’t mind it. But I would imag­ine it would look rather nice with a yarn that has a nicer drape, like Caron Sim­ply Soft or Bernat Satin.

Yarn: worsted weight, approx. 700 yd 

Hook: 6.5mm, 5.5mm

Mea­sure­ments:
Bust: 38“
Length: 18“ 
Sleeve length (under­arm to sleeve cuff): 13“
Neck open­ing: 15″

My pat­tern writ­ing abil­i­ty is lim­it­ed so I don’t want to attempt mak­ing dif­fer­ent sizes. But here are some sim­ple ways that I can think of for alteration:

To make small­er sizes I would sug­gest using a DK or sport weight yarn with a 4.5 mm hook and using the pat­tern as is.

To make larg­er sizes I would sug­gest increas­ing the num­ber of foun­da­tion chains by mul­ti­ples of 4, and then adding more rows in between increas­es and decreas­es in the sleeves, and adding more “work in pat­tern” rows in the mid­dle of front and back.

More notes…

This pat­tern has­n’t been test­ed, and it’s writ­ten from a crude dia­gram that I drew while cro­chet­ing. I tried to elab­o­rate as much as pos­si­ble when writ­ing it out, and it’s a very sim­ple pat­tern repeat, but some expe­ri­ence in cro­chet­ing is required to under­stand the abbre­vi­at­ed parts of the pat­tern (i.e. where it says “work in pat­tern”). The basic pat­tern repeat is rows 2–3. It would be pret­ty obvi­ous what you need to do once you get the hang of the pat­tern repeat, but prob­a­bly not a begin­ner’s project.

In the pat­tern wher­ev­er it says dc into a ch 2 or ch 1 space I actu­al­ly cro­chet into the chain to make the fab­ric less bulky/stiff giv­en the yarn I was using, but you can just cro­chet into the ch 2 or ch 1 space too, if you prefer.

Ok… on to the pattern.

 

Pat­tern

Sleeve, with larg­er hook

Row 1: ch 36, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, *dc in next two ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch*, rep from * to *, end with dc in last two ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 4, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp*, rep from * to *, end with ch 1, dc in top of last dc, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 2, *2 dc in next ch 2 sp, ch 2*, rep from * to *, end with dc in last ch 1 sp, dc in top of last dc, turn.

Row 4 (increase row): ch 3, dc in same st, ch 2, *2 dc in next ch 2 sp, ch 2*, rep from * to *, end with 2 dc in top of last dc, turn.

Rows 5–16: repeat rows 2–4 four times

Row 17: repeat row 2

Body

Row 18: repeat row 3, don’t turn at the end of the row, ch 44, remove hook from look, don’t fas­ten off. Attach a sep­a­rate ball of yarn at top of ch in the begin­ning of row, ch 41, fas­ten off.

Row 19: place hook back in the loop at the end of row 18, turn. ch 3, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk next 2 ch, *dc in next two ch, ch 2, sk next 2 ch*, rep from * to *, end with 2 dc in final two ch, turn.

Row 20: ch 4, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp*, rep from * to *, end with ch 1, dc in top of last dc, turn.

Row 21: ch 3, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 2, *2 dc in next ch 2 sp, ch 2*, rep from * to *, end with dc in last ch 1 sp, dc in top of last dc, turn.

Row 22–25: repeat rows 20–21 twice.

Front

Row 26 (decrease, neck shap­ing): mark the mid­point across body, which is the 18th set of 2‑dc. Repeat row 20, end with 2 dc in the ch 2 sp before mid­point, dc in next dc, turn.

Row 27 (decrease, neck shap­ing): ch 3, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 28 (decrease, neck shap­ing): work in pat­tern until last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in last ch 2 sp, dc in top of turn­ing ch, turn.

Row 29: ch 4, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 30: work in pat­tern until turn­ing ch from last row, dc in 4th ch of turn­ing ch, dc in 3rd st of turn­ing ch, turn.

Row 31–33: work in pattern.

Row 34 (increase, neck shap­ing): work in pat­tern until last two st, dc in last two st, dc again in last st, turn.

Row 35 (increase, neck shap­ing): ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 36 (increase, neck shap­ing): work in pat­tern until last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in last ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in top of turn­ing ch, fas­ten off.

Back

Row 26 (decrease, neck shap­ing): attach yarn at mid­point. ch 3, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 27 (decrease, neck shap­ing): work in pat­tern until the last ch 2 sp, dc in last ch 2 sp, 2 dc-tog in ch 2 sp and turn­ing ch, turn.

Row 28 (decrease, neck shap­ing): ch 3, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 29: work in pat­tern until last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in last ch 2 sp, ch 1, dc in turn­ing ch, turn.

Rows 30: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, ch 2, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Rows 31–33: work in pattern.

Row 34 (increase, neck shap­ing): ch 4, dc in first dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 35 (increase, neck shap­ing): work in pat­tern until last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in last ch 2 sp, ch 2, dc in 4th ch of turn­ing ch, dc in 3rd ch of turn­ing ch, turn.  

Row 36 (increase, neck shap­ing): ch 4, dc in first dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Body, join­ing front and back

Row 37: work in pat­tern until last ch 2 sp of BACK, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, [dc in top of turn­ing ch of BACK, dc in the first dc of FRONT], ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

*Tie the bases of the two stitch­es in square brack­ets togeth­er with a short length of yarn*

Rows 38–44: work in pat­tern. There should be 35 pairs of 2‑dc across the front and back of body on the rows that begin and end with a pair of 2‑dc. Fas­ten off at the end of row 44. Turn.

Sleeve

Row 45: Join yarn in ch 2 sp after the 11st pair of dc’s, ch 3, dc in same ch 2 sp, *ch 2, dc in next ch 2 sp* 13 times. Turn.

Row 46: work in pattern.

Row 47: ch 2, dc in first ch 1 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern till last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in last ch 2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc tog in 4th ch and 3rd ch of turn­ing ch. Turn.

Row 48: ch 3, dc in next ch 1 sp, 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, work in pat­tern till last ch 1 sp, dc in ch 1 sp, dc in top of turn­ing ch. Turn.

Rows 49–61: repeat rows 46–48 four times.

Rows 62–63: work in pat­tern. Fas­ten off at the end of row 63.

The entire sweater is now fin­ished! We’re almost there :D

Fin­ish­ing

Fold sweater in half along shoul­der line with right sides fac­ing togeth­er (which ever side looks bet­ter to you can be the “right side”), sew side and under­arm seams togeth­er. Turn right side out.

Using the small­er hook, cro­chet a round of hdc even­ly around each sleeve cuff and neck open­ing, and a round of tr around bot­tom edge of sweater. (2 st in each end of row seems to work out pret­ty even­ly for me.) 

Weave in ends, put on sweater and be cozy :D

 

sideways 2

Please don’t hes­i­tate to drop me a note if there’s any­thing unclear or if you spot any mis­takes in the pattern.

Have a won­der­ful week, everyone!

 

  

reflections on wild geese

levitation attempt

 

That was my best shot at lev­i­tat­ing so far. 

I was actu­al­ly try­ing to take pho­tos of a sweater I cro­cheted (in one piece in a side­ways man­ner, I’m hop­ing to post the pat­tern soon). The way I posi­tioned the cam­era was too low and could­n’t cap­ture the entire skirt, so I decid­ed to take a jump­ing shot, inspired by Nat­su­mi Hayashi’s lev­i­tat­ing self-portraits.

Hav­ing been fol­low­ing Nat­sum­i’s posts for a cou­ple of years, I’ve found that the key to lev­i­ta­tion (as opposed to just jump­ing) in a pho­to shoot is that one has to jump while relax­ing one’s shoul­ders and arms. 

It’s actu­al­ly quite dif­fi­cult. A lot of con­trolled coor­di­na­tion needs to hap­pen in a frac­tion of a second.

In this pho­to I cer­tain­ly still looked like I was jump­ing, but I like the way my arm and hand look in the light.

***

I’ve been stressed on many fronts lately. 

The para­dox of jump­ing — a surge of ener­gy to pro­pel one­self off the ground against grav­i­ty — while being relaxed was actu­al­ly quite enlight­en­ing when I thought about my recent encoun­ters with conflict.

What this makes me real­ize is that, in con­flict, I have to learn to sus­tain a clear and calm state of mind in the face of height­ened emo­tions. Height­ened emo­tions that threat­ens to derail my thoughts and actions.

It’s actu­al­ly quite difficult.

***

Real­iz­ing that it’s dif­fi­cult, and fear­ing that it might be impos­si­ble for me to ever do well, I find this poem comforting.

Wild Geese

You do not have to be good.
You do not have to walk on your knees
For a hun­dred miles through the desert, repent­ing.
You only have to let the soft ani­mal of your body
love what it loves.

Tell me about despair, yours, and I will tell you mine.
Mean­while the world goes on.
Mean­while the sun and the clear peb­bles of the rain
are mov­ing across the land­scapes,
over the prairies and the deep trees,
the moun­tains and the rivers.

Mean­while the wild geese, high in the clean blue air,
are head­ing home again.
Who­ev­er you are, no mat­ter how lone­ly,
the world offers itself to your imag­i­na­tion,
calls to you like the wild geese, harsh and excit­ing –
over and over announc­ing your place
in the fam­i­ly of things.

– Mary Oliver

 

May we all find clar­i­ty and com­pas­sion today.

 

 

this week’s awesome finds

 Awe­some yarn-bomb­ing idea. More on Carmichael Col­lec­tive.

 

 So CUTE! Makes a great pock­et on a coat or cardi­gan, I think. From Repeat Crafter Me.

 

 Best thing ever! I’m going to have to make this before my next road trip. Sewing pat­tern for ten­ta­cle neck pil­low from Tal­ly’s Trea­sury.

 

 Very hip and ele­gant sin­gle stem rosette neck­lace, from Bored & Crafty.

 

 Bun­ny gloves! I love the bow tie. Pat­tern from Devin Cole.

 

 This sheep needs to live on my couch. Knit­ting pat­tern from The Purl Bee.

 

 I did­n’t know about the appar­ent­ly real­ly wide­spread grumpy cat meme before com­ing across this, but I just LOVE this grumpy cat pin from LDP! I think I have to make one to keep me com­pa­ny when I’m feel­ing grumpy.

 

 How awe­some is this par­ty hat from Oh Hap­py Day? You can even add the can­dle to make it extra extra fes­tive :D

 

Have a hap­py week! :D

 

 

an angler fish named grace

grace 2

An angler fish named Grace, grate­ful for the light before its path.

It’s made from a pat­tern from this book, but the pat­tern is also online for free :D

The pat­tern uses rib­bon for teeth, but I don’t have that kind of rib­bon, so I cro­cheted them with thread. I’m quite hap­py with how they turned out. And the mouth is lined with black felt.

teeth

 

She looks rather hap­py :D

grace 1

 

Have a great week!