pooling isn’t just for ducks!”

That was what Mike said when I first explained to him the idea of pooling when using variegated yarn. I thought it would make a nice catchy blog title! :D 

I was making a hand towel for a relative as a gift, and bought this variegated yarn because I liked the colour combination. I started with a chain of 40, so there are 39 stitches across. I used a 5.5 mm hook, and crochet moss stitch, using Bernat Handicrafter yarn in Queen Ann’s Lace (large skein). And look! It started making a plaid pattern!

This was completely unintentional. I was even feeling a bit bad about it because when I read about planned pooling, I saw that it often takes people 5–6 tries before getting the pattern to work (which kind of deterred me from trying at all…), and here I am, la-di-da, out comes a plaid pattern (which is not perfect but good enough for me!).

Which is why I wanted to share all the details of what I did, maybe it will save someone some time if you’re trying to make a similar thing? The finished towel came out to be 9″ wide.

But then I also read that the success of planned pooling depends on one’s tension, where in the colour section one starts and the skein of yarn, so even if I try to do the exact same thing I may not get the same result anyway.

Definitely a pleasant surprise! 

Happy crafting!

 

 

wicker

Made with simple V-stitch, the resulting texture reminds me of wicker furniture. 

It’s an open front, light cardigan with a seamless construction. That’s right — no sewing, no sewing at all :)

Simple stitch pattern means easy to customize. The size I made is 34″. I’ve added suggestions for increasing size in italics.

I used one ball of Lion Brand Pound of Love and a 5.5 mm hook.

The cardigan is made top down.

Stitch pattern:

v-stitch (v-st): dc in stitch indicated, ch 1, dc in same stitch

Back

ch 66

Add 6 ch to the beginning ch for every inch you’d like to increase.

Row 1: v-st in 6th ch from hook, [sk 2 ch, v-st in next ch] till last 3 ch, dc in last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), [v-st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turning ch.

Repeat row 2 eleven (11) more times. Fasten off. 13 rows altogether.

For larger size, work 2 more rows for every 6 ch added to the beginning ch.

Right front

Turn piece upside down, so that the beginning ch is at the top. Attach yarn to top right corner of piece.

Row 1: ch 3, [v-st in the base of the v-st  from row 1 of back (it would be upside down)] 6 times, dc in the base of next v-st.

For larger size, work 1 more v-st for every 6 ch added to the beginning ch.

Row 2: ch 3, [v-st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 eleven (11) more times. Fasten off. 13 rows altogether.

Left front

Re-position the piece so that the unworked side of the shoulder is at top right. Attach yarn to top right corner.

Repeat rows 1–13 of left front. Don’t fasten off.

Join front and back

Join row: ch 3, v-st in every ch 1 sp across left front, dc in last dc of left front, dc in first dc of back, v-st in every ch 1 sp across back, dc in last dc of back, dc in first dc of right front, v-st in every ch 1 sp across right front, dc in last dc of right front, turn.

Body

Row 1 after joining: ch 3, v-st in every ch 1 sp until under arm, v-st in between the last dc of front and first dc of back, mark v-st just made, v-st in every ch 1 sp until under arm, v-st in between last dc of back and first dc of front, mark v-st just made, v-st in every ch 1 sp, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, [v-st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until piece is 19″ from shoulder, or desired length. Fasten off.

Sleeve

Sleeve is made in the round, turning at the end of every row. You will now be working along the side or ends of the rows in the front and back pieces. You will be making v-st around the dc (which I will call the horizontal bar below) and in the joining point between rows (which I will call joining point below — it is either the top of a dc or turning ch, so you can just make a v-st into it like you would usually do into a dc or ch).

Row 1: Attach yarn to the base of marked v-st in underarm, ch 4, dc in same place. sk the first horizontal bar, [v-st in next joining point, sk the next horizontal bar and the next joining point, v-st in next horizontal bar, sk the next joining point and horizontal bar] to end of round, sl st in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

This might help illustrate where I’m putting the stitches. The circles are the joining points, and the dashes are the horizontal bars. The v’s are the v-st.

Row 2: ch 3, [v-st in ch 1 sp] around, sl st in top of beginning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until sleeve is 17.5″ long, or desired length. End on a wrong side row so next row begin with right side facing. Don’t fasten off.

Cuff

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as sc), [sc in next ch 1 sp, sc in between two v-st] around, sl st in first sc, don’t turn.

Row 2: ch 1, in the back loop only, sc in every sc around, sl st in first sc, don’t turn.

Repeat row 2 two (2) more times. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve and cuff.

Front border / collar

Row 1 (RS): Attach yarn to bottom corner of right front, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc around every horizontal row end (horizontal bar as described above in sleeve) up along front, across back of neck, and down front again, turn.

Row 2 (WS): ch 2, in front loop only, hdc in every hdc to end, turn.

Row 3 (RS): ch 2, in back loop only, hdc in every hdc to end, turn.

Repeat rows 2–3 once more (or until desired width), then work row 2 again once. Don’t fasten off.

Bottom edge

Row 1 (WS): ch 1, 1 sc in every row-end of the hdc rows in border, 1 sc in every st across body of cardigan, then 1 sc in every row-end of border, turn.

Row 2 (RS): ch 1, in back loop only 1 sc in every sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

All finished. No sewing, as promised :)

Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions! Happy crocheting :)

 

moth patch

Was looking for a perfect moth patch for my jeans jacket but couldn’t find one that I liked, so I decided to crochet one!

Made with a 2.5mm hook and some sport weight cotton. I made the two larger wings and the middle part separately, then sewed them together. I used a lot of fabric glue on the back to stick down the yarn ends. It was a fun one evening project!

Here it is on my jeans jacket :D

Happy June!

 

spring knitting

There was this buy one get one free deal for Caron Simply Soft yarn one day at Michaels. I was working on a project that needed dark blue at the time and thought I only needed one skein. So I picked up this fun self-striping fiesta colour for the free skein because I love the neon yellow in it. One of my nieces birthday was coming up soon, so I thought I’d make her a fun vest with it :D (pictured above) The pattern is from issue 88 of Inside Crochet, the Imogen cardigan. I added the arcade stitch to the bottom third of it for more fun :)

And then I ended up needing more of this blue yarn, so I had to get another skein, and had the chance to pick up yet another free skein of fun self-striping yarn!

(One might even suspect that I did this on purpose so I could get more free skeins to grow my stash rather than just getting the 2 skeins of blue that I needed in my first round of shopping. But I promise I really thought I only needed one skein of that blue. Who would want to grow their stash? That’s ridiculous.) 

What do I do with this delicious mixed berry colour? Turned out that one of my best friends was visiting from out of town with her most adorable daughter. So I made another vest, plus a matching bias scarf for mum! :D

I used the Chasing Blizzard pattern for the scarf, but only followed it loosely, because my gauge is different. It was a lot of fun to knit. Here I am kind of modelling it so you can see the stitch patterns a bit better.

And the bunny rocking the vest :D It was part of a cardigan pattern from a very old issue of Crochet Today magazine. 

She insisted on playing with the rice cooker measuring cups at the juncture of kitchen and dining room. (that was how her mum was able to get a picture of the front of the cardigan)

And spring is the perfect time to go on a knitting/crocheting/yarn crafting adventure! Two years ago I participated in the TTC knitalong, it was a great deal of fun visiting different local yarn shops, meeting other yarn crafters and knitting in public! (you can see my pictures here!). I even got a few exclusive patterns and won a sweater-quantity of handspun from one of the shops!

This year the knitalong is going to be on Saturday July 15! It’s been a hugely popular event that’s entirely run by volunteers, so this year I’m helping to organize the event and we need a few more yarn-loving folks to help out! So if Toronto is your neighbourhood and if you love yarn I think you should absolutely join me :D

It’s really a fantastic event that brings people together, draws business to independent yarn shops and benefits Sistering, a local drop-in and support centre for women. So! The next planning meeting is Saturday May 20 at 1pm, and we can even get ice cream afterwards! :D For more information and updates, check out the event’s Facebook page here.

Hope everyone’s enjoying the sun!

 

spring forward

Winter seems to be dragging on in my corner of the world, but that doesn’t stop us from getting ready for sandal weather and looking forward to blooming trees :)

Last year I tried crocheting shoes because I hate shoe shopping. I made some shoes and sandals with jute soles, I was quite happy with how the pattern turned out, but the jute sole turned out to be a bit bumpy and uncomfortable after walking in them for a while. Several friends have sent me this crocheted shoes pattern by Make & Do Crew, so I thought I’d try using flip flop soles this time.

And I think they turned out not so bad! :D

I thought I’d share how I made them here. As much as I’m sharing it with you, I’m also recording it so I can remember what to do when these wear out, because they’re really quite comfortable! If you try to make them I hope you’d like them too :) It took me just two evenings to make them and I was taking process photos and such, so it’s a fairly quick project. And apologies in advance about the poorly lit process photos! The weather has been so drab lately and the lighting in our apartment is bad :S but hopefully the what the photos are trying to show is clear! If not, drop me a note!

I used:

One pair of flip flops (I bought mine from Old Navy for about $5 CAD, in size 5)

One skein of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (80 yrds, mine in Indigo)

3.5 mm hook, and a smaller hook (i.e. 2.5 mm) to weave in ends

Sewing needle

Sewing thread that matches the colour of yarn

2 half-inch buttons

A long sharp tool (I used an awl for bookbinding, but I know that’s not really an everyday handy tool, so I did a quick search for awl alternatives, and the results that came up were metal skewers and long crewel needles)

Masking tape or painter’s tape

Sharpie marker

Tape measure

Kitchen scissors

What I did:

First, I cut off the straps on the sandals with kitchen scissors. I left the bits of plastic in the holes where the straps were attached though, because I plan on wearing these outdoor and I don’t want holes in the soles of my shoes.

I then put painter’s across the soles and wrapped around the sides, the top piece of tape positioned just a bit above where the straps were attached at the top of the sole. On mine it’s about 1.5″ from the very top of the sole, but that would probably be different if you have a different size shoe. It doesn’t really matter, as long as the tapes on both shoes are positioned the same way. I put a couple more pieces of tape across so that the taped area is 2.5″ in length. Again you can make it longer or shorter, as long as both shoes are the same.

I then marked one side of the sole on the painter’s tape with a tape measure and marker, with a marking every quarter-inch apart, at about the midpoint of the thickness of the sole, starting at one edge of the taped area and ending at the other edge of the tape. 

I then poked holes at the markings and going through diagonally from the side to the top of the sole, coming out about quarter-inch away from the edge at the top of the sole, like so…

Repeat marking and poking holes on the other side of the sole. Remove all the tapes.

I put painter’s tape around the heel, starting and ending where the original sandal straps were attached at the bottom of the sole, and marked and poked holes in the same way I did one the sides of the sole. Remove the tapes when done.

Repeat for the other shoe. Make sure both shoes have the same number of holes!

With top of the sole facing, and a length of yarn and sewing needle, attach yarn to the first hole at the top on one side of the sole, like so…

Sew through the holes made with blanket stitch.

When you get to the last hole, reinsert the needle down from the top of the sole to the side of the sole, then tie off securely.

Don’t worry about all the loose ends, you can weave them in when you crochet the top and heel :)

Repeat the blanket stitch on the other side of the sole and the heel, then repeat on the other sole. It will look like this.

Now we’re ready to crochet! :D

Left Sandal Top:

With a blanket stitch, you would have a vertical thread and horizontal thread in each stitch. Attach yarn to the vertical thread on the top right of the sole, work 1 sc around this thread, then work 1 sc around the horizontal thread right next to it, then work 1 sc in every horizontal thread to the end of the row, and placing last sc around the last vertical thread of the row.

Second row and every row thereafter: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each sc, turn. 

You can put your foot on the sole and see how wide you need to make the top as you go. It’s good to make it a bit snug, I imagine it will stretch a bit as you wear it. There were 26 rows in mine. End with a wrong side row. 

Attach row: sl st in top left vertical thread of the blanket stitch on the sole, then sl st together next sc on the sandal top and next horizontal thread of blanket stitch on the sole, continue with sl st in next sc and next horizontal thread till end, end with sl st in vertical thread of last blanket stitch on the sole, fasten off.

Edging: Attach yarn to the vertical thread of the blanket stitch on the top right side of the sole, ch 1, sc evenly across top edge of sandal top. I find that repeating [1 sc in each of the next 3 end of sc row, skip 1 end of row] seems to work well. Ending with sl st in vertical thread of blanket stitch on the top left side sole, fasten off.

Repeat edging on the bottom edge of the sandal top. Weave in ends.

Left Sandal Heel:

Attach yarn to first vertical thread on the right side of the sole, work 1 sc around this thread, then work 1 sc in the horizontal thread right next to it, then work 1 sc in every horizontal thread to the end of the row, and placing last sc around the last vertical thread of the row.

Row 2–3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each sc, turn.

Row 4 (decrease row): ch 1, skip first sc, sc in next sc and each sc till there are 2 sc left, 2 sc tog, turn.

Repeat rows 2–4 twice more. Fasten off.

Edging: Attach yarn to the first vertical thread on the right side of the sole (same stitch where the heel started). ch 1, sc evenly up the side of the heel. I find that repeating [1 sc in each of the next 3 end of row, skip 1 end of row] seems to work well.

When you reach the top of the right side of the heel piece, ch 30, sc in the 6th ch from hook, sc in every ch (strap made), then sc in each sc across the top of the heel, then sc evenly down the other side of the heel, end with sl st in last vertical thread of the last blanket stitch on the heel, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Attach button with matching thread to the top left corner of the heel piece.

Right Sandal Top:

Make as left sandal top, except start by attaching yarn to the bottom left vertical thread on the sole. 

Right Sandal Heel:

Make as left sandal heel, except when crocheting edging, work sc evenly up the right side of the heel piece, then sc in each sc across the top of the heel piece, then ch 30, sc in 6th ch from hook, sc in each ch, then work sc evenly down the left side of the heel piece.

Finishing:

Sew button on each heel piece opposite of the strap.

Ready to roll :D

These are fairly plain-looking, but they’re my first try, and I do like simple designs. But maybe one day I’ll try to incorporate fancier stitch pattern or a closed toe version! As always if you have any questions please feel free to leave a comment below :)

Hope everyone is having a good weekend!

cumulus

Or, an exercise in crochet cables!

Cumulus is a shrug/cardigan with a ring of cables around the neck/front/back. 

 

The construction is quite simple. Basically, it’s making a 25″ x 26″ rectangle, folding it in half, sewing the side seams, then attaching yarn to crochet the sleeves in the round. Sleeves measure 11″ from where it joins the arm hole to cuff.

I used 5.5 mm and 5 mm hooks, and one ball of Lion Brand Pound of Love

Below are the stitches used, you can click on the link for instructions on how to make the stitches.

fdc = foundation double crochet

bpdc = back post double crochet

fpdc = front post double crochet

bptr = back post treble crochet (made the same way as bpdc, but make a treble crochet stitch instead of a double crochet stitch)

fptr = front post treble crochet (same as above)

Note: you might want to make the front/back post stitches a bit more loosely than you would when making a typical double crochet stitch, so that the post stitches are a bit taller to match the height of the regular dc’s. 

Pattern:

(RS) With larger hook, begin with 96 fdc. (you can add to the length of the shrug by adding more fdc stitches at this point. 4 dc = 1″)

Row 1 (WS): ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), [bpdc in next dc, dc in next dc, skip 3 dc, bptr in next 3 dc, turn, make 3 fptr in the skipped stitches, turn, dc in next dc after the 3 bptr, bpdc in next dc], dc in every dc till there are 11 stitches left, repeat from [ to ], dc in last dc, turn.

Here is a photo re-cap of how the cable was made. At the point where you’ve skipped 3 dc, bptr in next 3 dc from right to left as usual.

Now turn the piece. You’re only turning the piece temporarily because it’s easier to work from the other side to form the cable. fptr in the 3 skipped stitches from left to right. I’ve made the first of the 3 fptr in this picture.

Then turn the work back and continue on pattern.

Row 2: ch 3, [fpdc in next dc, dc in next dc, fpdc in next 6 stitches, dc in next dc, fpdc in next dc], dc in each dc till there are 11 stitches left, repeat from [ to ], dc in turning ch, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, [bpdc in next dc, dc in next dc, bpdc in next 6 stitches, dc in next dc, bpdc in next dc], dc in each dc till there are 11 stitches left, repeat from [ to ], dc in turning ch, turn. 

Row 4: repeat row 2

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until piece is 26″ from beginning, ending with Row 3. Fasten off.

Side seams:

Position piece so that the cables are horizontal. With wrong side facing out, fold piece in half (the hold is parallel to the cables). Starting from the bottom of each side, crochet the side seams together by matching the stitches on both layers and using slip stitch, crochet 22 sl st up each side.

Sleeves:

Turn piece right side out.

Attach yarn to a stitch near the side seam in the arm hole, ch 3, make 49 dc around the arm hole, turn.

Row 1: ch 3, dc in each dc around, sl st in top of turning ch, turn.

Row 2 (decrease row): ch 3, 2 dc tog, dc in each dc until the last 2 dc, 2 dc tog, sl st in top of turning ch, turn.

Row 3–4: repeat row 1.

Row 5: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3–5 seven more times. Work row 1 one more time. Don’t turn piece on the last row. 19 rows altogether on sleeve. 

Row 20 (RS): with smaller hook, ch 3, [fpdc in next st, dc in next st] repeat from [ to ] around, don’t turn.

Repeat row 20 twice. Fasten off. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Finishing:

Attach yarn anywhere on collar, with larger hook, work 2 sc around each dc or turning ch post around collar/front/back, sl st in first sc to complete round. Fasten off, weave in all ends.

Finished :)

Feel free to leave me a message in the comments if you have any questions! Happy crocheting!

 

office cape

Stumbled across Two of Wands’ beautiful Saddlebrook cape scarf pattern on Instagram, thought it was just the thing I need for the chilly office! The arm openings are perfect for typing and tea drinking, and it’s so stylish-looking! I love the cleverly designed edging detail. It’s a beautiful design, and it’s free! And! I had been looking for a project through which I can use up the almost-full skeins of yarn leftover from the corner-to-corner crochet blanket for my parents last Christmas, it’s awesome!

It’s very packable, so I imagine it would also be great to bring on the train or plane or road trips! And it makes a nice giant scarf!

I had modified the pattern so that it’s shorter (because I’m a shorter person, and I find it easier to move around if the cape is kind of regular coat length), and so that I could use the worsted weight yarn I have. So I thought I’d share the modifications in case you’re in similar situation!

My cape measures 60″ x 20″.

I used a 6mm hook, and started by making a chain of 182, then dc in 4th ch from hook (turning ch counts as a dc throughout). I used dc stitches throughout, 180 dc across.

I followed the pattern for the edging (the grey/brown part), then split for arm openings on the 14th row after edging. Arm opening stitch count as follows: 25 dc, 20 fdc (for arm opening), 90 dc, 20 fdc, 25 dc.

Then I finished the other half of the cape in the same way as the first half.

I used Bernat Super Value yarn, less than half a skein of the grey, brown and blue, and almost a full skein of the teal.

Now let’s throw on the cape and unleash superpowers.

Have a fantastic week, everyone! :D

sideways reimagined

I wrote the pattern for the Sideways sweater a few years back, and wanted to make a new version based on the design with solid double crochet stitches. But then I thought just rows upon rows of double crochet stitches would be too plain to look at and too boring to make, so here’s what I came up with :D

It’s a very relaxed-looking pullover, with 3/4 sleeves. Use a soft yarn with nice drape. I used Caron Simply Soft, and it worked really well.

Size:
Finished circumference at bust: 37″ 
Sleeve circumference at upper arm: 14″
Sleeve length: 11.5″
Length: 22″ 

Material:
6.5 mm and 5.5 mm crochet hooks
Caron Simply Soft yarn in Dark Country Blue, 3 skeins

Note: 
Pullover is worked from side to side, starting from one sleeve cuff and ending at the other sleeve cuff, then folded in half along shoulders, and sewn together along underarm seams and side seams. The construction is fairly simple, so it would be easy to modify sizes. Pattern will include suggestions on making larger sizes.

Pattern

Sleeve

Row 1 (RS): with larger hook, ch 36, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. (34 dc — beginning ch 3 counts as a dc)

To increase sleeve circumference: for each additional inch, add 4 ch to the beginning ch 36. Note that the total stitch count will be increased as well.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 3–5: repeat row 2

Row 6: ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc until last two st, 2 dc in next dc, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Rows 7–11: repeat row 2

Row 12: repeat row 6

Rows 13–18: repeat rows 7–12 once more. (40 dc at row 18) 

To increase sleeve length: for each additional inch, work row 2 twice more.

Row 19: ch 3, dc in each dc to end, ch 45, fasten off.

To increase total length: for each additional inch, add 4 ch to the ch 45.

Front/Shoulder/Back

Row 1: reattach yarn to top of beginning ch of row 19, ch 47, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch, dc in each dc across sleeve, dc in each ch in the ch 45 from row 19, turn. (130 dc)

To increase length: if you’ve added ch to the previous ch 45, add the same number of ch to the ch 47 in row 1.Note that the total stitch count will be increased as well.

Rows 2–5: work as row 2 in sleeve.

To increase circumference at bust to 39″ (41″): repeat row 2 once (twice) more.

Row 6: ch 3, dc in next 61 dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 3, dc in each dc until ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 8: ch 3, dc in each dc until 2 dc before ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 9: ch 3, dc in each dc until ch 2 sp, [2dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2] twice, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Front

Row 1: ch 3, dc in each dc until 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, turn. Leave remaining st unworked.

Row 2: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each dc till 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 4: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 5: ch 3, dc in each dc till 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 6: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 3, dc in each dc till 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] four times, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 8: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] four times, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 9: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 10: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 11: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 12: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, dc in each dc to end. Take hook off loop but keep loop on hold, don’t fasten off.

Back

Row 1: with a separate ball of yarn, attach yarn to the stitch to the left of the last stitch of row 1 of front. ch 3, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 2–12: repeat row 1.

Fasten off.

Front/shoulder/back

Row 1 (join row): place hook back in loop where it was left off in row 12 of front. ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, dc in last dc made in back, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 4: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 5: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 6: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 7–9: ch 3, dc in each dc to end. 

To increase circumference at bust to 39″ (41″): if you’ve added rows in the previous front/shoulder/back section, add the same number of rows here. 

Fasten off.

Sleeve

If you’ve made increases in the other sleeve, make sure that this sleeve has the same number of stitches and rows.

Row 1: From last stitch made, count 45 dc, join yarn at the 46th dc. ch 3, dc in next 39 st, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, 2 dc tog, dc in each dc till last 3 st, 2 dc tog, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 4–7: repeat row 3.

Rows 8–19: repeat rows 2–7 two more times (34 dc). Fasten off.

Finishing

With right sides together, fold sweater along shoulders, and sew underarm and side seams together. Weave in ends.

With smaller hook, attach yarn at shoulder seam of neck opening. Work one row of sc evenly around neck opening.

With smaller hook, attach yarn at side seam of lower edge of sweater. Work one row of sc evenly around lower edge.

(2 sc in each end of row worked for me.)

 

Hope you enjoy this re-make! Drop me a note if you have any questions, or if you spot any mistakes, I’d greatly appreciate it!

Happy crafting!

 

forest

First sweater project of the year is from a gorgeous pattern in Learn to Crochet Love to Crochet by Anna Wilkinson. The patchwork pattern was a lot of fun to make, and it reminds me of the diverse foliage in the forest.

I made the ribbed bands using single crochet stitches in back loops, because I had a lack of patience for slip stitches :S But I’m happy with how it turned out :)

Also! This is made with yarn I bought in Hong Kong! It’s really just acrylic DK yarn made it Europe I think, and it was on sale, so I bought a sweater quantity. So glad that it’s put to good use :D

AND! Did you notice the new design of this space? :D Mike kindly did an update! It’s not very different, because I wanted it to still feel like home, but just more contemporary and less late 90s blog-like, so it’s like a reno to the bathroom or kitchen and some reconfigurations of furniture. And I think the result is perfect :) and it’s responsive! (that’s a new word I learned :D it means that the layout adapts to the mobile devices so it’s easy to read on any device) 

Here’s a great start to a crafty year! Looking forward to sharing more crafty adventures with you. Cheers! 

one busy elf!

Now that the holiday’s over, I can show you the Christmas gifts I made and all the fun I’ve been having since the fall! This was one busy elf!

So I made a number of wash cloths, to give with artisan soaps that I got from craft fairs, very practical gifts that I thought everyone could use :) The butterfly wash cloth is from this Paillon Cloth pattern, which was a lot of fun to make with a variegated cotton. The tiny fish ones are for my niece and nephews, from this pattern on Ravelry. The hanging towel was a modification of the Circle Cloth pattern. Also made a couple of these pineapple hanging towels.

 

I took a workshop in November with my co-workers at a glass shop making millefiori pendants. I’ve made one for myself before and it was a lot of fun, so I made another for a gift :)

While making pom pom hair ties for my sincere sock cupcake project, I thought I’d also try making some soot sprites hair ties for a couple of Studio Ghibli fans :D

Caught in a perfectly tiny tin! :D (that used to hold some sparkly tea)

These hedgehogs mitts are for my niece, made almost entirely in commute. Excellent pattern from mom.me.

Spent a couple of Sunday afternoons at the Gardiner Museum drop-in clay class, and made an army of ornaments and tea bag holders! It was a great way to spend a weekend afternoon creatively, must go back sometimes!

And my newest invention — sushi sock rolls! :D For my dear friend’s baby. I used this 2-needle baby sock pattern, but had to modify it quite a bit to get the black part long enough to roll around. So the socks are faaarrr too big for the baby right now, they’re more for a toddler. But they’ll fit soon enough! And the idea is that when the child out grows the socks, they can be rolled up and sewed together permanently and be used as play food, or a pin cushion :D

 Now, the biggest project ever undertaken — behold the polar bear blanket!!!

I’ve been working on it for months and it’s for my parents! Wish I have a better picture of it, but it’s just so big! I didn’t have the room in my place or my parents’ for a good photo shoot. So here it is on my parents’ bed :) This is my first attempt at corner-to-corner crochet as well. I first made the polar bear blanket from Simply Crochet magazine (issue 50), then thought my parents would probably like a larger blanket. So I thought I’d add squares around it. I used the pine cone pattern from Make & Do Crew, then found and modified some knitting and cross-stitching graphs to make the snowflakes and the north star. Discovered that Microsoft Excel is a great program to draft crochet charts! 

And now, one great gift I received from my sister — from the awesome Out of Print clothing, a Miss Peregrine shirt!

Stay peculiar and levitate!

(Well, maybe not too much levitation this year. I haven’t tried taking this kind of photos for a while, and then afterwards my knees were a bit sore… another year older, after all. But stay peculiar, definitely!)

Happy first week of January! Hope everyone had a re-energizing holiday and have a great start to the new year! :D

 

 

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