ginkgo

Posted on by trish

 

Erra­ta in row 1 — sor­ry about that! 

 New pat­tern! :D 

Real­ly lik­ing those half-lace blous­es that are pop­u­lar nowa­days. So I fig­ure I could make my own lace :D

It’s basi­cal­ly a part cro­chet, part fab­ric square top (my favourite kind of shirts!) with neck shaping.

I tried to make a gink­go leaf pat­tern in the lace.

 

The size I made is 34″ around. But it’s a sim­ple grid-like pat­tern repeat so every part is eas­i­ly adjustable. 

I used one skein of #10 cot­ton cro­chet thread, and a 2.5mm hook.

Lace pat­tern starts from the bottom.

 

Shell = 5 dc in 1 st

Shell in the beginning/end of row = 3 dc in 1 st

 

Lace (make 2)

ch 135. (for size adjust­ments, add or minus mul­ti­ples of 6 stitch­es. 6 stitch­es equals approx. 0.75″)

Row 1 (WS): ch 3, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across. 

Row 2 (RS): ch 3, 2 dc in same st, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, [skip 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc] across, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in the top of turn­ing ch. Turn.

Row 3: ch 5, skip shell in the begin­ning of row, dc in next dc, [ch 2, dc in 3rd dc of shell, ch 2, skip rest of shell, dc in next dc] across, ch 2, dc in top of turn­ing ch. Turn.

Row 4: ch 3, 5 dc in next dc, [dc in dc, 5 dc in next dc across], dc in 3rd ch of turn­ing ch. Turn.

Row 5: ch 5, dc in 3rd dc of shell, [skip rest of shell, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in 3rd dc of shell] across, ch 2, dc in top of turn­ing ch. Turn.

Row 6: ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next dc, [5 dc in next dc, dc in next dc] across, 3 dc in 3rd st of turn­ing ch.

Row 7 — 16: cro­chet rows 3–6 twice, then rows 3–4

Right neck shaping:

Row 17: work as row 5 until 15 dc’s are made, dc in 3rd dc of next shell, turn.

Row 18: ch 3, skip 1st dc, dc in next dc, [shell in next dc, dc in next dc] to end, 3 dc in turn­ing ch, turn.

Row 19: ch 5, work as row 3, dc in 3rd dc of last shell, skip rest of shell, dc in next dc, turn.

Row 20: ch 3, skip 1st dc, shell in next dc, work as row 4 to end.

Row 21: ch 5, work as row 5, dc in 3rd dc of last shell, dc in turn­ing ch.

Row 22: repeat row 18.

Row 23: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across. Fas­ten off.

Left neck shaping:

With wrong side fac­ing, count­ing from the left edge, attach yarn to 3rd dc of the 8th shell.

Row 17: ch 3, skip remain­ing dc of shell, dc in next dc, work in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 18: work in pat­tern until sec­ond last dc, dc in 2nd last dc, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 19: skip 1st dc, dc in 3rd dc of 1st shell, con­tin­ue in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 20: work in pat­tern, end with dc in turn­ing ch, turn.

Row 21: ch 3, dc in 3rd dc of 1st shell, con­tin­ue in pat­tern to end, turn.

Row 22: work in pat­tern, end with dc in turn­ing ch, turn.

Row 23: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across. Fas­ten off. 

 

Repeat from begin­ning for the oth­er piece.

 

With right sides togeth­er, sew shoul­der seams together. 

With right side fac­ing, work a row of sc even­ly across each sleeve edge by cro­chet­ing 2 sc in each row.

With right side fac­ing, attach yarn to a stitch in the cen­tre of neck­line and sl st in every st around neckline.

Slight­ly block or gen­tly press the piece so it lies flat.

 

Now the sewing begins! 

Deter­mine total length of blouse, or how long you want your blouse to be.

Fold cro­cheted piece in half along shoul­der seams and mea­sure its height from shoul­der to bot­tom of piece. 

Sub­tract height of cro­cheted piece from total length of blouse = length of fab­ric needed.

Mea­sure width of cro­cheted piece from sleeve edge to sleeve edge = width of fab­ric needed.

Add 1/2″ seam allowance on all sides.

Cut 2 pieces of fab­ric to measurement.

 

With the sewing machine, I zigzag stitched around all sides on both fab­ric to min­i­mize fraying.

With right sides togeth­er, cen­tre cro­cheted piece on fab­ric along top edge. Pin bot­tom row of cro­cheted piece to the top edge of one piece of fab­ric, leav­ing the 1/2″ seam allowance on fab­ric, like so…

 

Close up of pinning…

 

Using small and close-togeth­er run­ning stitch­es, hand-sew fab­ric and cro­chet piece togeth­er along the stitch­es between the dc row and the first shells row (where I placed the pins in the pho­to above).

Then machine-sew along the same line with large stitch­es, like so.

 

Repeat with the oth­er side of the cro­chet piece and the oth­er piece of fabric.

Press seam allowance down­ward (see pho­to below).

For the length of the arm­holes, I mea­sured from top of shoul­der to mid chest. Alter­na­tive­ly, one could mea­sure a sweater that fits well from top of shoul­der to under­arm to get the mea­sure­ment. Mark where the arm­hole ends on the fab­ric. Then sew each side seam up to that mark, like so…

 

Press side seams open. Then sew a V‑shape around the bot­tom of each arm hole, with the seam allowance of the fab­ric wrap­ping around the edge of the cro­chet piece. Back stitch a cou­ple of times at the bot­tom of the V, across the side seam. Like so…

 

Press and sew hem. And we’re all done! :D

 

Feel free to drop me a note if you want any clarification!

Have a won­der­ful Thurs­day! :D

 

 

 

71 thoughts on “ginkgo”

  4. I’m stuck on row 2 of the lace. I have print­ed out the full instruc­tions. Maybe you could email me?

  5. Hi Marie, thank you for giv­ing my pat­tern a try! I’ve emailed you, but i’m post­ing my response here too in case oth­ers are interested.

    For row 2, you’re basi­cal­ly alter­nat­ing between a dc and a shell (5 dc in one space) along the row, with 2 stitch­es between each dc and shell. There’s a close-up of how the 2nd row looks in the pho­to with the sewing machine, and pho­to of pinning.

    In the very first stitch of the row you’ll do a half shell (3 dc in one space, but the begin­ning ch 3 counts as a dc, so you’re just doing 2 dc in the very first stitch of the row). 

    In the very last stitch of the row (a turn­ing ch from the pre­vi­ous row) you’ll also do a half shell (3 dc into the top of the turn­ing ch).

    Hope that helps! Hap­py crocheting!

  6. Hel­lo I am so excit­ed too see this bluse its a must for me too try it’s a design from you that is so cre­ative it’s the look well let you know­ing that i did it thanx so much for the time and efort, tak­ing care of a very sick dog but there was this and it made me smile so by renee

  10. I have been look­ing for a diy top just like this for a few days now! I am so glad I found your blog via Pin­ter­est!! This is adorable! Mak­ing one for me and my daugh­ter!! Thanks so much for shar­ing your tutorial! :)

  14. Hel­lo,
    I’ve just dis­cov­ered your blog and this blouse in par­tic­u­lar through http://www.threadandneedles.com
    This top is beau­ti­ful ! I will have to find the French equiv­a­lence for the cro­chet abbre­vi­a­tions, but as soon as I have it, I’ll try your pat­tern. Thank you !

  16. I real­ly like this shirt and I’ve tried to make my own. Every­thing was going on per­fect­ly but.. I did it too small (It is my first item with the sewing machine). I would like to send a pic­ture but i don’t know how.

  17. I LOVE this! I just start­ed one dor myself with size 10 thread and an E hook. How­ev­er, after two rows I found tha­trhe pat­tern was uneven. So for oth­ers who want to make this and adjust the size, the num­ber to chain would be a mul­ti­ple of 6 plus 3 (for the end shell stitch). Thank you so much for post­ing a pat­tern for this!

  18. thaaaaank you so much for share all your projects. All of them are beau­ti­ful and won­der­ful. since I saw your blog , I love crocheting

  20. This is the coolest shirt ever!! I am on now work­ing on the back piece. You are very gen­er­ous to share this awe­some pat­tern when you could eas­i­ly sell it. Thanks again!

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  30. It would be help­ful to know what size shirt she nor­mal­ly wears (XS, S, M…), so that oth­ers who try to make one would have a ref­er­ence for how much they might need to scale up or down. I’d love to give it a try, but I’m a lit­tle wor­ried about siz­ing with­out know­ing that or hav­ing a gauge.

  31. thanks for vis­it­ing Rebec­ca! the size i made is 34″ (which is usu­al­ly a small or extra small in most cloth­ing stores and pat­tern books); for size adjust­ments, add or minus mul­ti­ples of 6 stitch­es in the foun­da­tion ch. 6 stitch­es equals approx­i­mate­ly 0.75″, as indi­cat­ed in the pat­tern. hope this helps!

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  35. thanks so much for try­ing out the pat­tern Janette! it’s so beau­ti­ful! the fab­ric is gor­geous and i love the colour of yarn you used!

  37. When I chained 135,it end­ed up being huge. I am about the same size as you so I did­n’t plan on any adjust­ments to your pat­tern. Should it be 60″ or clos­er to 40″? I can make adjust­ments but a gauge would be helpful.

  38. Hi Cyn­thia, thanks so much for try­ing out the pat­tern! Won­der­ing what hook size and yarn weight you’re using? If using the same hook size and yarn in the pat­tern (2.5mm hook, #10 cro­chet thread), the fin­ished bust should be 34″, and the gauge is 6 stitch­es for 0.75″, as men­tioned in the pat­tern. It may be slight­ly larg­er if you cro­chet more loose­ly than I do, but it would­n’t be 40″ or 60″. Please let me know if this is helpful.

  45. Love­ly top! I don’t cro­chet much or often. Do you think this would be a begin­ner piece? Or should I just try it?

  46. hi Mar­lene! thanks so much for vis­it­ing! i’d say def­i­nite­ly give it a try! if you come across any prob­lems just let me know and i can try to clar­i­fy :D

  47. Hi Trish
    This pat­tern is gor­geous — I real­ly like it! But I would like some­thing for a long-sleeved t‑shirt. I want to keep the sleeves but replace the top part with a cro­chet yoke. I tried to fig­ure out how to adapt your pat­tern, but I’m not so good at that…any ideas? Thanks so much!!

  48. hi Sonia! thank you for vis­it­ing! for what you’re describ­ing, i would just make the shirt as per the pat­tern, and then sew the sleeves on. it would make a sort of box-shaped top. hope this helps!

  49. Hi there — I’m going to give this pat­tern a try, but just won­dered what kind of fab­ric you used please? Thank you!

  51. Hi Trish, I’m just try­ing out ur cro­chet pat­tern. In row 4 and 6 in brack­ets it says dc in dc, 5 dc in next dc. This made my row too bulky. I won­dered if it is meant to be the same as row 2 where it skips 2 dc between shells?
    Thank you

  52. hi Deb­bie, thanks for giv­ing the pat­tern a try! Rows 4 and 6 are not meant to be the same as row 2, because row 2 is the only row that is cro­cheted on top of a row of dc’s with no space in between. There is only 1 dc between shells in rows 4 and 6; the stitch count and the over­all pat­tern won’t work if there are 2 dc between shells in these rows. I won­der if the bulk­i­ness is relat­ed to the weight of the yarn you’re using or the hook size? If not, you might also want to dou­ble check that you’re fol­low­ing pat­tern for rows 3 and 5 accu­rate­ly, i.e. dc’s with ch‑2 space in between? Hope this helps!

  54. Hel­lo. I love this pat­tern. How­ev­er I am a lit­tle con­fused. In the begin­ning after the chain the pat­tern reads WS and I am to dc in every stitch, Row 2 RS and the pat­tern begins at the end of that it states turn. My con­fu­sion is at the end of the foun­da­tion row I am still on the RS so do I turn to so I am on the WS? This is my first time doing this kind of pat­tern so I want to make sure I am absolute­ly cor­rect. Thank you.

  55. Hi Mica, thanks for giv­ing the pat­tern a try! You should turn the piece at the end of every row to work on the fol­low­ing row. So row 1, which is dc in every ch, is the wrong side. You turn at the end of row 1. The right side is fac­ing you when you work on row 2, then at the end of row 2, you turn the piece, so that the wrong side is fac­ing you when you work on row 3. Hope this makes sense! Hap­py crocheting!

  56. Hi. I see the mea­sure­ment is 34″ around but it’s cro­cheted flat… So is it 17″ across and then once sewn togeth­er it is 37″?
    I seem to need 20″ across (L cap sleeve edge to R cap sleeve edge), since I am larg­er than you are! So I need to add 3″ to width. Your direc­tions say to add 6 sts for each .75″, so that would be 36 stitch­es extra, right??
    Thank you
    So
    Much!

  58. Hi Naidre, thanks for giv­ing my pat­tern a try! Yes, the top I made is 17″ across for each of the front and back pieces, and sewn togeth­er they make 34″ around. So if you’d like to add 6″ in total so that you have 40″ around, you would add 3″ to each of the front and back pieces. 6 sts = 0.75″, and 3″ divid­ed by 0.75″ = 4, which means that you’d need to add 24 stitch­es to each of the front and back pieces. Hope this helps! Hap­py crocheting!

  59. Thanks for your reply!! This will be my first sum­mer project! I’ll report back to you.

  60. I love this project. I would like to try to make this. Thank you for sharing.

  66. Thank you for this tutorial,Trish!! You helped me a lot…I did­n’t no how to
    attach the yoke to the skirt with the machine…!!
    Have a nice day.….!!!!

  68. Thank you so much for this pat­tern! Blous­es like this are my favorite. I bought one from Old Navy 2 years ago, that I love. It only came in white and I am the clum­si­est per­son I know. I can not wait to make this is dif­fer­ent col­ors and to try using this weight yarn.

  70. hola, siem­pre intente realizar, me encan­to el diseño
    gra­cias por dar las expli­ca­ciones, tratare de hac­er­lo en un talle más grande

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