hongdae

Posted on by trish

So named because I tried work­ing with this yarn on a project while stay­ing in Hong­dae, Seoul, and because this hip­ster mus­tard yel­low seems to go well with the neigh­bour­hood that is known for its urban arts and many indie cafes.

I end­ed up frog­ging the project that I was work­ing on while in Hong­dae. In the mean­while, the Gink­go pat­tern has been get­ting a lot of traf­fic late­ly and I’ve been think­ing about doing a cro­chet-only remake for those who are not real­ly into sewing. So I thought I’d use this yarn for a new pattern.

Photo 2016-06-24, 11 45 23 AM

As with all of my pat­terns, I made the gar­ment to fit me, but it does­n’t involve much shap­ing at all and I think it’d be pret­ty easy to adjust size.

Clos­er up of the lace pat­tern :D

Photo 2016-06-24, 11 42 21 AM

I used:
Mira­sol Illaris — DK weight 100% cot­ton, 5 skeins, 580 yards (you’d need more yarn if you were mak­ing a larg­er size)
4.5 mm hook
Tapes­try needle

Fin­ished measurements:
Bust 30″
Length 20.5″
Length — shoul­der to under­arm 7″
col­lar width 9″

Gauge: 6 dc = approx. 1″
To adjust size, add or decrease mul­ti­ples of 6 ch in foun­da­tion ch.
One could also make it wider for a cap-sleeve boxy-top look.

Pat­tern:

Front:

ch 63

Row 1 (RS): dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in every ch across, turn (61 dc).

Row 2–33: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc through­out), dc in every dc across, turn.

Start lace pattern: 

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first dc, *ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc* repeat from * to * till end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in first sc, ch 2, sc in ch 2 sp, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * till last sc of row, ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to *, end­ing with sc in 3rd ch of turn­ing ch, turn.

Rows 4–12: Repeat rows 2–3 four more times, then row 2 once more.

Left shoul­der:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * two more times, turn.

Row 2: ch 2, sk first ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * once more, ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * once more, turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc in first sc, [sc in ch 2 sp, sc in dc] twice, sc in ch 2 sp, 2 sc in sc, [sc in ch 2 sp, sc in dc] twice, sc in ch 2 sp, sc in last sc. Fas­ten off.

Right shoul­der:

Attach yarn to the begin­ning of row 12 of lace pat­tern at the 3rd ch of turn­ing ch. Work the same as left shoulder.

Back:

Work the same as front until shoul­ders. Repeat lace pat­tern row 3, then row 2.

Left shoul­der: Work rows 3–4 of shoul­der for front.

Right shoul­der: Attach yarn to the begin­ning of row 14 of lace pat­tern at the 3rd ch of turn­ing ch. Work the same as left shoulder.

Assem­bly:

With wrong sides togeth­er, sew shoul­der seams together.

With wrong sides togeth­er, sew side seams togeth­er, start­ing at the base of the 2nd dc row below the start of the lace pat­tern, and sewing to the bot­tom edge of the garment.

Turn gar­ment right side out. Work one row of sc even­ly around the col­lar, basi­cal­ly work­ing 1 sc in each dc, sc, and ch 2 sp. Then work one row of sc even­ly around each of the arm­holes. I find that it turns out pret­ty even when I work 1 sc in each row-end, and 1 sc in a space between 2 rows.

Weave in all ends. And we’re finished :)

Photo 2016-06-24, 11 41 01 AM

As always if you spot any mis­takes or have any ques­tions please feel free to drop me a note, and I will cor­rect or try my best to assist!

Hap­py first week of summer!

 

 

15 thoughts on “hongdae”

  1. Encore un très joli petit pull qui vous sied à mer­veille. Com­pli­ments vous faites vrai­ment de belles choses.

  5. Thank you for shar­ing this awe­some pat­tern with the ready to fol­low instruc­tions. Just fin­ished mak­ing mine.

  7. I’ve been search­ing for a pat­tern for this style of top in such a long time! Thank you!!! 

    Btw, do you think it would work if I used two threads of a cro­chet thread size 8 with this?

  8. Hi Ella, glad you like the pat­tern! I think with 2 strands of #8 cro­chet thread togeth­er it would be lighter than the DK weight I use, and the gar­ment may turn out a bit small­er. But you can increase the num­ber of ch in the foun­da­tion chain to com­pen­sate for that. Hope this helps!

  9. Hi Trish, thanks for shar­ing your pattern!
    I’ve made this top once before and am mak­ing anoth­er one, but I have a few ques­tions. (Tak­en from my notes on Ravelry)

    For the lace portion:
    Would it be bet­ter to say ‘sc into the ch 2 space between the dc of the pre­vi­ous row’ or some­thing along those lines instead of ‘sc into the ch 2 space’? Because there are ch‑2 spaces before and after the ‘dc v stitch’ and sc that aren’t worked into.

    For the back por­tion (Left & Right Shoulder):
    Does this mean to only do rows 3 & 4 of the shoulder?
    I tried work­ing it the same as the front shoul­ders but when it was time to repeat rows 3&4, the sts wouldn’t have been worked cor­rect­ly. (rpt of row 3 after doing row 4 would have no dc’s to be worked into)

    Thanks in advance

  10. Hi Shanese, thanks for giv­ing the pat­tern a try! 

    I agree with you that it would be bet­ter to say “sc into the ch2 sp between dc of the pre­vi­ous row”, or I could have said sk next ch 2 sp, and sc into the next… I can make that change. Thanks for the feedback!

    For the back shoul­ders, yes you would only work rows 3 and 4 of shoul­der. That means skip rows 1 and 2 of shoul­ders, just work rows 3 and 4. You would­n’t need to repeat row 3 after work­ing row 4, you would only work rows 3 and 4 once. Maybe I should take out the word “repeat” in the back shoul­der instruc­tion as well to avoid confusion. 

    Hope this helps!

  13. Hel­lo Mar­garet, thank you for vis­it­ing! You can make the top larg­er by adding mul­ti­ples of 6 stitch­es to the foun­da­tion chain (6 st = 1 inch), then just fol­low­ing the pat­tern as is. If you’re increas­ing the pat­tern sig­nif­i­cant­ly, say more than 12 stitch­es at foun­da­tion chain for each of the front and back piece, then you may need to adjust the neck/collar shap­ing, and I haven’t tried that out yet so unfor­tu­nate­ly I can’t say exact­ly how it will look like at this time. Alter­na­tive­ly, how­ev­er, you can use a larg­er hook and heav­ier yarn, i.e. worsted weight with 5.5 or 6 mm hook, so that you can just increase mod­er­ate­ly i.e. add 6 stitch­es for each front / back piece, and result in a larg­er size. It will like­ly take some exper­i­ment­ing and mea­sur­ing as you go. Hope this helps! Hap­py crocheting!

  14. I real­ly love this and I think it will be my next make. I’m con­sid­er­ably big­ger than you so I’ll let ya know how it goes :)

  15. Glad you like the pat­tern! Would love to hear how it goes and hope the tips on chang­ing size in the post is help­ful! If you have any ques­tions please feel free to let me know, I’ll try my best to help! Hap­py cro­chet­ing :D

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