So named because I tried work­ing with this yarn on a project while stay­ing in Hong­dae, Seoul, and because this hip­ster mus­tard yel­low seems to go well with the neigh­bour­hood that is known for its urban arts and many indie cafes.

I end­ed up frog­ging the project that I was work­ing on while in Hong­dae. In the mean­while, the Gink­go pat­tern has been get­ting a lot of traf­fic late­ly and I’ve been think­ing about doing a cro­chet-only remake for those who are not real­ly into sewing. So I thought I’d use this yarn for a new pattern.

As with all of my pat­terns, I made the gar­ment to fit me, but it does­n’t involve much shap­ing at all and I think it’d be pret­ty easy to adjust size.

Clos­er up of the lace pat­tern :D

I used:
Mira­sol Illaris — DK weight 100% cot­ton, 5 skeins, 580 yards (you’d need more yarn if you were mak­ing a larg­er size)
4.5 mm hook
Tapes­try needle

Fin­ished measurements:
Bust 30″
Length 20.5″
Length — shoul­der to under­arm 7″
col­lar width 9″

Gauge: 6 dc = approx. 1″
To adjust size, add or decrease mul­ti­ples of 6 ch in foun­da­tion ch.
One could also make it wider for a cap-sleeve boxy-top look.

Pat­tern:

Front:

ch 63

Row 1 (RS): dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in every ch across, turn (61 dc).

Row 2–33: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc through­out), dc in every dc across, turn.

Start lace pattern: 

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first dc, *ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc* repeat from * to * till end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in first sc, ch 2, sc in ch 2 sp, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * till last sc of row, ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to *, end­ing with sc in 3rd ch of turn­ing ch, turn.

Rows 4–12: Repeat rows 2–3 four more times, then row 2 once more.

Left shoul­der:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * two more times, turn.

Row 2: ch 2, sk first ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * once more, ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 sp*, repeat from * to * once more, turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc in first sc, [sc in ch 2 sp, sc in dc] twice, sc in ch 2 sp, 2 sc in sc, [sc in ch 2 sp, sc in dc] twice, sc in ch 2 sp, sc in last sc. Fas­ten off.

Right shoul­der:

Attach yarn to the begin­ning of row 12 of lace pat­tern at the 3rd ch of turn­ing ch. Work the same as left shoulder.

Back:

Work the same as front until shoul­ders. Repeat lace pat­tern row 3, then row 2.

Left shoul­der: Work rows 3–4 of shoul­der for front.

Right shoul­der: Attach yarn to the begin­ning of row 14 of lace pat­tern at the 3rd ch of turn­ing ch. Work the same as left shoulder.

Assem­bly:

With wrong sides togeth­er, sew shoul­der seams together.

With wrong sides togeth­er, sew side seams togeth­er, start­ing at the base of the 2nd dc row below the start of the lace pat­tern, and sewing to the bot­tom edge of the garment.

Turn gar­ment right side out. Work one row of sc even­ly around the col­lar, basi­cal­ly work­ing 1 sc in each dc, sc, and ch 2 sp. Then work one row of sc even­ly around each of the arm­holes. I find that it turns out pret­ty even when I work 1 sc in each row-end, and 1 sc in a space between 2 rows.

Weave in all ends. And we’re finished :)

As always if you spot any mis­takes or have any ques­tions please feel free to drop me a note, and I will cor­rect or try my best to assist!

Hap­py first week of summer!

 

 

Saw lots of vis­i­tors to the Water’s Edge pat­tern yes­ter­day, thanks so much for vis­it­ing! Did you know that the pat­tern is now also in Dutch? :D Thanks to a very gen­er­ous blog read­er, Lisa, who trans­lat­ed it. This is the first time my pat­tern is avail­able in anoth­er lan­guage :D You can see the pat­tern in Dutch here on Haak Infor­matie.

Hap­py weekend!

 

Need­ed to make myself a new wal­let, I thought I’d make some­thing fun :D

The Nyan Cat pop-tart! :D

That’s not real­ly a wal­let, one might say. More like a card­hold­er, one might also say. I guess one could use it as a card hold­er. I made myself a tiny wal­let this size when I start­ed work­ing at a cof­fee shop near­ly a decade ago. There were no lock­ers in the back­room, so I made a wal­let that would fit in my jeans pock­et, so that it’s always on my per­son as I worked. I’ve been using the small wal­let ever since. My bank cards and IDs fit snug­ly in it. And the few bills I have I’d just fold them up to fit them in.

In case any­one finds a cro­cheted case of this size use­ful, I’ve made a chart! :D And a few notes describ­ing how I made it.

The fin­ished size is about 2.5″ x 3.5″.

I used worsted weight yarn in tan, pink and dark pink, a 3mm hook, and a tapes­try needle.

1. With tan, ch 13
2. sc in every ch across (12 sc)
3. Repeat row 2
4. Begin fol­low­ing the chart adding the pink and dark pink, using strand­ed cro­chet technique*
5. At the end of the chart, you’d have 18 rows alto­geth­er. Don’t fas­ten off, cro­chet 18 more rows with tan. Fas­ten off, leav­ing a long tail for sewing.
6. With wrong side out, fold the piece in half cross­wise, sew the sides togeth­er. Weave in ends, turn right side out.

*Tips on strand­ed cro­chet for this project:

• The first row incor­po­rat­ing pink (3rd row of chart) is wrong side, as are all the rows with just pink.
• All the rows incor­po­rat­ing both pink and dark pink are right side.
• Chang­ing colours: in the stitch before new colour, yo and draw up a loop with old colour, yo with new colour and pull through loops on hook.
• Car­ry the strands of colours not in use as you cro­chet and wrap the strands in the stitch­es you make. When work­ing on the right side, car­ry the strands of yarn on the back of the work. When work­ing on the wrong side, car­ry the strands of yarn in the front of the work.

Do let me know if you have any questions! :)

Have a good rest of the week and week­end, everyone!