lately

It is granny square day today! So I thought I’d take the opportunity to finally take a picture of my finished mitered square blanket :D it’s loom-knitted!

150 squares! It took about 2 months to make, it’s the biggest blanket I’ve ever made, 42″ by 63″!

I made a series of tutorials if you’re interested in making your own! (a dish cloth / potholder with four squares is a fun make too if you don’t want to commit to an entire blanket)

After the blanket and the c2c top in my last post, I found a pattern that would be perfect for the yarn I won at the Yarn Hop raffle, from Yarns Untangled, in “untangled” colourway :)

The pattern is Retro Solstice Eclipse by JL on Ravelry. And look! I’m knitting in the round! (I’m always kind of afraid of patterns that knit in the round, but once I get started I find it actually easier than knitting flat) I also figured out why my last in-the-round sweater had this weird gap at the joint — my stitch marker was too big. That seemed like a really silly mistake. But now I have these sleek stitch markers that came with the raffle prize so it’s all going smoothly :)

Speaking of the Yarn Hop, since we’ve had so much fun the day of, we’ve been meeting throughout the summer! Here we were enjoying the park…

And here were were at Spin Me a Yarn, who graciously hosted our meetup last week!

Can you spot Albert the Alpaca sharing a chair with me? :D Albert finally got to meet Lambert, the resident lamb at the shop, looking spiffy with sock in his own “Lambert” colourway.

If you live in Toronto and would like to join us at our meetups be sure to follow The Great Toronto Yarn Hop on Facebook!

Hope you’re enjoying summer and much crafting!

 

 

8-bit

So earlier in the summer I started writing a number of crochet patterns that I was hoping to compile into an e-book for sale. But the summer is quickly going by, and I’ve had more freelance work than expected (which is a good thing). So then I realize I don’t realistically have the capacity to pattern-test, calculate for different sizes, etc. in order to make the patterns sell-able. So! I’m just going to continue in this blog’s tradition in sharing patterns for free! :D It’s just that it will require some creative/math work if you’re not making the exact same size I’m wearing. But that also means lots of rooms for customization! This is the first of the few patterns I was working on :)

I’ve always wanted to try using corner-to-corner (c2c) crochet to make a top. My first idea was a cozy sweater with a dinosaur on it (I might still do that, we’ll see!), but all these heat waves we’ve been having are not conducive to cozy sweater-making, so I thought I’d try with a lace weight yarn for a breezy summer top. 

The “tiles” made in c2c crochet reminds me of colourful pixels, and Nintendo video games of my childhood, and summer vacation spent playing these games. So I called it “8-bit”.

It can be worn both ways, either with the buttons on the front, or on the back!

Buttons in the front makes it a cardigan, which can be paired with a spaghetti strap summer dress!

The top is made in 4 pieces then sewn together. So you can also sew the v-neck pieces together and place the buttons on the round-neck side.

There is also some shoulder shaping so that the cap sleeves will follow the shoulders rather than stick out. I thought that goes better with the gentle, delicate feel of the lace weight Noro Taiyo.

Size: Bust 36″, armhole depth 7″, neck opening width 8″, total length 17″

Size is easy to adjust as you go with the c2c crochet stitch. There will be tips for adjustment throughout in italics.

Gauge: 5x5 “tiles” = 2“x2”

Material: 

3.5 mm hook, and the smallest hook you have for weaving in ends (mine is 1.5 mm)

Lace weight yarn about 1100 yards (I only used a bit of the second skein of Noro Taiyo Lace, one skein of this is over 900 yards), larger sizes will require more yarn

Seven 1/2″ buttons

Sewing needle

Corner-to-corner crochet: this pattern requires familiarity with c2c crochet. If you’ve never used this stitch before, no worries! It’s quite easy and I find it rather meditative too. There are tons of very detailed tutorials out there. I learned from the photo tutorial by One Dog Woof, take a look and use some scrap yarn to practice, and I’m sure you’ll be ready in no time!

Charts:

 

 

Pattern/recipe:

V-neck piece (make 2):

Start from the lower left corner, tile 1. Continue through chart. Chart is read diagonally. Follow this excellent photo tutorial by One Dog Woof if you need some help!

When there are 22 tiles on both edges, begin decreasing on the right edge by working 1 sl st through each dc just made, and sl st in turning ch, then ch 3, 3 dc in turning ch, and continuing on.

For a larger garment, continue working more tiles until desired width before decreasing. To determine “desired width”, decide on finished bust measurement you’d like for the top. Say 40″. Divide it by 4, which is 10″. Then continue c2c crochet until both edges are 10″ long before decreasing on the right edge. Note the number of tiles you have at the bottom edge when you reach desired width. You will need to have the same number of tiles on the bottom edge of each of the pieces.

Continue increasing on the left edge but decreasing on the right edge until the left edge has 37 tiles. 

For a longer garment, continue increasing on the left edge until desired length. Note the number of tiles when you reach desired length.

Shape shoulder:

Begin decreasing on the left edge after the 37th tile (or desired length). Work one row towards the right edge, then one row towards the left edge. After crocheting the last tile on the top edge, work another tile on top of the previous row (I placed an additional white tile on top of the brown tile of the previous row).

Then, as usual, turn, sl st in next 3 dc, sl st in turning ch.

And continue down the row.

Repeat the above steps for shoulder shaping until shoulder resembles the chart. 

(We’re of course not going to leave the shoulders jagged! We’ll fill in the corners as we sew them together later.)

Then, decrease on both the top edge and the right edge until there are 9 tiles at top edge. End with working loop on the top edge, don’t fasten off.

If you have increased in the bottom edge, increase the same number of tiles at the top edge.

Neck edge:

*Work 3 dc in the corner between first two tiles (where the lower left corner of the tile the working loop is on meets the top right of the next tile), sl st in next turning ch* repeat from * to * until end of row (the neck edge is shown in the next photo). Fasten off.

Round-neck piece (make 2):

Follow pattern/recipe until neck edge. (making the same increases if you’ve made them in the v-neck pieces.)

*Work 3 dc in the corner between first two tiles, sl st in next turning ch* repeat from * to * 3 more times, ch 3, 3 dc in turning ch.

Continue in c2c stitch pattern, decreasing on both edges until there final tile is made, fasten off.

Sew halves together:

Sew together the centre seams of the two round-neck pieces.

Seaming shoulders:

With wrong side facing, attach yarn to lower edge of shoulder on one piece.

*Work 3 dc in corner between the first two tiles, sl st in next turning ch* repeat from * to * until end of row, don’t fasten off.

With right sides together, place shoulder of v-neck piece to the shoulder of the round-neck piece just completed, matching both pieces. With working loop still attached to the round-neck piece, sl st in top of shoulder of v-neck piece.

*Work 3 dc in corner between the first two tiles, sl st in next turning ch* repeat from * to * until end of row, leave a long tail for sewing, fasten off. 

Sew entire shoulders together (the slopes we just worked on and the top edges). Repeat on the other shoulder.

The rest of assembly:

With wrong sides facing, sew side seams together. For my top I counted 17 tiles down from shoulder for 7″ in armhole depth, then started sewing to the bottom edge. If making a deeper armhole, measure the desired depth and count the number of tiles within the measurement.

Buttons:

Sew buttons on one edge where the turning ch on the edge will form natural button holes, which is every 4th tile.

Weave in all the ends with a tiny hook, and we’re done! :D

Leave a comment if you have any questions or need clarifications! Happy crocheting!

 

this week’s awesome finds

Beautiful corner to corner cloud blanket and chart from Kikalite.

 

If I conjure up enough patience, I will make these. Beaded earrings how-to from How Did You Make This?

 

We never grow tired of llamas <3 Video tutorial from Picot Pals.

 

Also from Picot Pals, Iceland poppies! They’d make great brooches wouldn’t they?

 

These made from, can you guess it? — hot glue sticks! Tutorial from AdTech, the company that makes the glue sticks.

 

This one’s a planter! <3 paid pattern by Hello Happy on Ravelry.

 

Happy Thursday, and have a lovely weekend, everyone!

 

 

Lately

After a bit of frenzy gearing up for the Yarn Hop, I’ve been quiet on the blog lately, catching up on other things…

My niece and nephews have birthdays relatively close to each other, so every summer we give them all their gifts at the same time — that way everyone gets to open a gift! :D

One of the gifts was a loom knitted dinosaur — when I first stumbled upon it on the web I thought I had to make this! The pattern is by The Loom Muse

(The wooden dinosaur is a gift from a dear friend :D) I find that with the extra small 12-peg loom the gauge is very loose, and I ended up having to weave a strand of yarn through all the stitches in every column of knitting to prevent the stuffing from being visible. Perhaps I will have to try using an even heavier yarn next time (I used extra bulky for this one). I’m still quite happy with how it turned out!

Another gift was an owl puppet, pattern also by The Loom Muse but only available as a video. The pattern is for a stuffed owl but I ran out of yarn, so I left the bottom open and a puppet it is!

I love that it also has a tail! :D

And we’ve all met the alpaca! The mascot I loom-knitted for the Yarn Hop (because we were team alpaca). The pattern is also by the Loom Muse (it is a treasure trove of stuffed animal patterns!). Here’s our fabulous team in front of the wonderful Purple Purl! (You can also kind of see the makeshift alpaca carrier on my tote.)

Throughout the day alpaca got named Albert, inspired by Lambert at Spin Me a Yarn, another local yarn shop :D (you’ll find Lambert and his yarn adventures on this Insta feed)

Here’s Albert at Yarnsomniacs enjoying the very soft yarn made by his friends.

As you can see we also made an alpaca sign to keep us humans from wandering off. The super cute template is from Picot Pals. Here he is at Knit-O-Matic with everyone busy looking and crafting! 

And here we are at Passionknit — note the beautiful wall of Canadian hand dyed yarn on the right!

In other news, I wore my crocheted sandals outside for the first time since making them last year (or even the year before?). I don’t know why I haven’t worn them. Worried they’ll break I suppose. But it’s been so warm lately, I decided to give them a go. It’s really difficult for me to find sandals that don’t hurt my feet, so I haven’t bought or worn sandals for like the past ten years, and always suffered from socks and sneakers no matter the heat wave >_< 

So I wore these out on the street, walked around, took the subway and streetcar, walked on the grass… and they’re really comfortable! My summer shoes problem is solved! :D 

In case anyone’s interested, they’re made with flip flop soles and worsted weight cotton, pattern is here.

And finally, I’m down to my last row of the mitered square blanket!! 

There will be 150 squares in total! And about 4 feet by 5.5 feet! I have been slowing down with making this though because inevitably I have to put it on my lap to knit and it’s been really warm >_< definitely a winter project, for next time. But soon I’ll be able to show you the blanket with all 150 squares in all its glory! 

Until next time, keep on crafting!

 

today is the day! =(^・x・^)=

Today IS the day! The annual Toronto Yarn Hop! Caturday the cup cozy is chilling out at my neighbourhood LYS Yarnsomniacs, one of the many exciting stops on our grand tour of Toronto LYS’s today!

A bunch of us (over 120 people, to be more precise! :D) are yarn-crafting in public transit and going around to different independent yarn shops today while raising funds for Sistering, a 24/7 drop-in/support centre for women who are homeless or precariously housed. Last year we raised around $2700, which went toward much needed services such as primary healthcare, counselling, support groups and meal program (learn more about the event by reading my previous post here).

If you’re not able to physically come to the yarn hop this year, you can still join us (and help us reach our fundraising goal of $3000!) by donating to Sistering through this link here, and in return I will send you the pattern for the Caturday cup cozy (more photos here), which is a pattern that I wrote for yarn hop participants to crochet along. You can donate any amount and you don’t have to tell me how much or send me proof, just simply make a donation then email me at genuinemudpie@gmail.com to let me know, and I will send you the pattern in appreciation :)

Happy weekend!

 

 

Caturday… and count down to YARN HOP!

 

The Great Toronto Yarn Hop is coming up in exactly a week, on July 14! :D

All of us volunteers are getting super excited and busy organizing for a fun day knitting/crocheting/yarn-crafting in public with other yarn enthusiasts. It’s a great event for people to get to know each other, make a statement about the importance of craft and creativity by crafting in public, and support independent yarn-craft businesses.

So how does it work, you ask? Yarn-hoppers buy tickets and get organized into teams that take different public transit routes throughout the city to visit different independent yarn shops. At the end of the day we reconvene at a resto-pub for food, drinks and raffles. Proceeds from tickets and raffles go to Sistering, a 24/7 women’s support and drop-in centre that offers much needed services like primary healthcare, support groups, counselling and meal program to women who are experiencing homelessness/precarious housing, social marginalization and other challenging circumstances.

Sistering has a special place in my heart because that was where I trained as a social worker. The participants, volunteers and staff were the most valuable, knowledgeable teachers and I wouldn’t know what I know now and be where I am today without them.

There are still tickets left on a few of the routes, you can find out more details and buy tickets here

If you can’t physically come to the Yarn Hop, you can still join us! I wrote a crochet cup cozy pattern as part of the gifts for the Yarn Hop participants, called Caturday (because, you know, the Yarn Hop is on a Saturday). You can donate to Sistering through this Yarn Hop link, and I will send you the pattern! 

You can donate any amount, and you don’t have to let me know how much you donated or send me any proof, I trust that we all want to make a difference in someone’s life when we have the opportunity to. Simply send me an email at genuinemudpie@gmail.com letting me know that you have donated, and I will send you a pdf file of the pattern in reply :)

The cup cozy uses a small amount of DK yarn and 4 mm hook. It has a dense, textured fabric that will keep your fingers safe from hot beverages. If you’re not into cats, simply omit the last row and the embroidery, and you’ll have a simple yet not-so-plain cup cozy to show off a beautiful yarn. Great for using up scraps!

Want to know more about how your donations will make a difference? Visit Sistering’s website for information and inspiring stories from the most resilient women. 

In the meanwhile, I was also busy loom knitting a mascot for the team that Mike and I are co-leading — Team Alpaca! Look how cuuuute… (if I do say so myself, haha)

I’ve named him Cousin Alpaca, because I have a plush llama, who is perhaps like a cousin to alpaca…? Anyway, I thought Cousin Alpaca is a good name :D

If you loom knit and want to make your own alpaca, the pattern is by the Loom Muse and can be found here

If you’re in or near Toronto, come hang out with us and Cousin Alpaca next Saturday! :D Hope your weekend is full of crafty goodness!

 

 

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 5

Now that we’ve gotten the hang of making mitered square, you might get a bit bored of making solid colour squares. You can make striped ones! And use up smaller balls of scraps! Here’s what I do…

After casting on, purling one row, decreasing one stitch on either side of the centre peg, and moving each stitch over, introduce the new colour by making a slip knot with the new yarn and placing it on the peg with the first stitch of the row.

Knit over the old yarn (pink), then continue e-wrapping with the new yarn (blue). Purl one row with the new yarn. Then switch back to the pink yarn.

Lay the working yarn of the previous row on top of the new yarn before making the first e-wrap to carry the yarn with you as you go. (in this case we’re bringing back the pink yarn and about to make an e-wrap on the first peg, notice the blue yarn is on top of the pink so it gets wrapped into the stitch.)

When you have 5 stitches left after a purl row, cut the current yarn, and tie off.

Do the decrease around the centre peg and move the stitches over as usual, and complete the square.

Here’s the stripy square!

You can also make scrappy squares that use up every last bits of yarn. I knit till I have about 2 inches left, and tie on a new yarn very close to the peg (I learned this from watching videos of loom knitting plush toys by the Loom Muse — more on that in another post!)

In the photo below the new yarn is the grey one and the one that ran out is green.

The resulting scrappy square looks like this :)

Yes, lots of ends to weave in on these squares but I like the look of them :)

I hope you’ve enjoyed this series of how-to for making a mitered square blanket! Happy knitting!

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

 

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 4

Hello! We’re back with the last step in loom knitting the mitered square blanket, which is to join all the other squares in the blanket after the first row and after the first square of any row. This is how the majority of the squares will be joined!

As always, we orient the loom to the blanket (or in the case of this demonstration, a dish cloth). The square we joined in the last post is the blue square.

The loops marked with the blue dots on the blue square will go on the pegs parked with the blue dots, and the loops marked with the red dots on the yellow square will go on the pegs with the red dots. 

We would begin with placing the loops on the yellow square on the pegs, starting from the edge towards the centre, and starting the first peg that is right beside the side knob. We place the last loop on the yellow square on the peg before the marked centre peg, then place the first loop of the blue square on the marked peg, and the rest of the loops of the blue square onto the pegs until the second last peg of the loom — 23 stitches altogether. 

Here’s a closer look at the loops that are placed on the pegs. Note that the loops that are picked up are the horizontal strands in between purl bumps.

And here’s how it looks on the loom when both yellow and blue squares are attached, with the right side of the square touching the inside of the loom.

When you’re actually knitting with the blanket on your lap, it would be oriented like this. I would start putting on the loops from the black/grey/beige square, which is the square from the previous row, and then put on the loops from the purple/mixed colour square, which is the square made just before the current one.

Now we’re ready to knit the new square as we usually do. We start with adjusting a slip knot on the first peg (the one right beside the side knob), knit off the loop below, then e-wrap and knit off each stitch.

Instruction for the rest of the square is pasted below, but if you need more help there are photos in the first post.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. (Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.) 

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 stitches left. Purl the 3 stitches. Place the stitch on the left and stitch on the right onto the middle peg, e-wrap, then knit off all 3 bottom loops. Fasten off.

Here’s how my mitered square dish cloth looks like! :D I crocheted a border and loop at the top with a 6.5mm hook, basically 1 single crochet in each stitch around, and 3 sc in each corner.

Next time we’ll have our last post of the series on how to make striped squares, or essentially how I change colours to use up every last bit of those scraps.

You might ask, isn’t there a million ends to weave in at the end? Yes, so I don’t wait till the end. Usually I weave in the ends after making one or two squares. Leaving ALL the ends to weave in after 10x15 squares would drive me mad :S (I plan on making the blanket 10 squares wide and 15 squares tall)

Till next time, happy knitting! 

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 3

Hello friends! We’re back again with our mitered square blanket! Today we’re going to join the first square on the second row, and the method for joining is the same for the first square in every row. 

Let’s first orient ourselves. For the first square in every row, we will always be joining under the first square in the previous row. In our case, it’s the purple square (in the last post we joined the yellow square). 

We will place the loops on the bottom edge of the purple square (as indicated by the red dots) onto the pegs on the loom that are marked by the red dot, starting at the first peg (the one that’s beside the side knob) and ending at the peg marked with a stitch marker, or the one just before it. So you will put on 11 or 12 loops, it doesn’t make a difference.

To place the loops on the square onto the pegs, find the horizontal strands between the purl bumps, and place the strands onto the pegs.

When actually joining/knitting the square, you would position it like this, with the right side of the square you’re joining to facing the inside of the loop, and picking up the loops on the side this way. (And yes that was a wonderful day knitting in the sun sitting on the grass in a park! :D)

Once the loops are placed onto the peg, make a slip knot with the new yarn (in this demonstration it’s the blue yarn), place it on the first peg, and knit over with the loop on the peg.

E-wrap the next peg, then knit over. Repeat until there are no loops on the next pegs. Then, e-wrap the next loop twice and knit off the bottom loop (in this demonstration it is the marked peg, but it can also be the peg after the marked peg if you have placed a loop from the previous square on the marked peg, it doesn’t really make a difference), thereby casting on a stitch.

Continue casting on until the second last peg on the loom — that will be the last stitch, 23 stitches altogether.

You’re now ready to continue making the square as usual. Instructions are pasted below for convenience’s sake but if you need more help there are photos in the first post.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. (Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.) 

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 stitches left. Purl the 3 stitches. Place the stitch on the left and stitch on the right onto the middle peg, e-wrap, then knit off all 3 bottom loops. Fasten off.

Now we have the first square of the row joined! Next time we’ll join the next square, which is how we make the majority of the squares in the blanket.

Be sure to leave a comment on the post if you have any question! You can send me an email too but other readers may also find your questions helpful so don’t be shy :)

Happy weekend!

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 2

Welcome back to the loom-knit-along mitered square blanket project! :D

In this post we knit a second square while joining it to the previous one. Every square on the very first row of the blanket will be made this way. You can make the row as long as you want. My blanket is 10 squares wide, and it’s 39″. 

First, let’s orient ourselves. We will put the loops on one side of the first square onto 12 pegs of the loom, as illustrated in the picture below. The red-dotted stitches will go on the red-dotted pegs.

With the right side of the square facing the inside of the loom, start by putting the first stitch at the top of the square onto the marked peg. For the following stitches, use the loom pick to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn between the purl bumps and place it onto the peg, like so…

Continue putting a loop on each peg until you reach the other corner of the square and each of the 12 pegs have a loop on it. It will look like this.

Then, go to the first peg of the loom, and cast on the 11 pegs that don’t have loops on them with a new colour for your new square (my second square is yellow).

When you get to the first peg with a loop of the previous square on it (the marked peg), e-wrap, then knit off the loop from the previous square.

Continue until the end of row. And that’s it! You’ve cast on a conjoining square! :D

Knit the rest of the square the same way as the first square. For convenience, I’ll paste the pattern below but there are photos in the blog post that might help if you’re having trouble.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. (Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.) 

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 stitches left. Purl the 3 stitches. Place the stitch on the left and stitch on the right onto the middle peg, e-wrap, then knit off all 3 bottom loops. Fasten off.

Now we have two squares joined together! Next time we’ll join a square to the row below. Here’s a first look at how we’ll do that.

In the meanwhile, join as many square as you’d like for the first row, by placing the loops from the previous square on the loom (i.e. if I were to join a third square to the first row, I’d place loops from the yellow square on the loom). Then come back and join us for the second row!

Happy knitting! :D Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions!

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares