cumulus cowl

I had a vision of this cowl when I saw the yarn, which was Loops & Threads Barcelona in Arctic, and I bought it because it was on massive sale. It is a very fluffy yarn and with the colours it reminds me of clouds. I wanted to create a subtle cable texture where the cables may not be super noticeable at first glance, and the crossing of the stitches are a bit hidden, like clouds, which are easily taken for granted unless we take time to stop and notice their forms and shapes, and twists and turns.

I was happy with the way it came out so I thought I’d share what I did. The fabric is doubled so it’s extra warm and squishy. It would work nicely with any bulky yarn with long colour transitions of grey and white. (or other colours you like!)

 

It is a loom knitting pattern, and if you’re new to it now worries! I include links to video tutorials for different techniques. Loom knitting itself is quite easy, so a beginner would be able to follow this pattern.

Material:

Half a skein of Loops & Threads Barcelona — about 150 yards.

41 peg Knit Quick round loom and loom knitting hook

4 mm crochet hook (for weaving in ends)

Pattern:

Mark the pegs with elastic bands or stitch markers. Mark the first two pegs, *skip two pegs, mark the next two*, repeat from * to * around until there are 3 pegs left.

E-wrap cast on all the pegs around the loom.

E-wrap every round until piece is 2″ in length.

Cable round: *Take off and hold the loops from the first two marked pegs. Place the loop from first peg on the second peg, then place the loop from the second peg on the first peg, then e-wrap the two stitches* (cable stitch complete). E-wrap the next two stitches as usual. Repeat from * to * over the next two stitches on marked pegs to work cable stitch. Continue around working cable stitch over the stitches on marked pegs, and working regular e-wraps over unmarked pegs. (Here’s a video for the cable stitch, except that in the video u-wraps and purl stitches are used, whereas in this pattern only e-wraps are used)

E-wrap 3 rounds.

Repeat the last 4 rounds until piece is 16″ in length.

E-wrap until the piece is 18″ in length, don’t fasten off.

Seaming:

Place the cast on loops back on the pegs, careful in matching the loops to the pegs (i.e. the first loop of the round in the first peg, second loop on the second peg, and so on). Bind off loosely, treating the bottom two loops as one. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Move the seam towards the middle of the cowl, and enjoy the fluffiness!

Happy weekend, friends! :D

 

the sharing hat

This hat was made and the pattern written while Mike and I participated at the Warming Toronto event at the end of February, which was an event in which people gather together and make hats and scarves for shelters and outreach programs in the city. So I’m sharing this pattern with these intentions:

1) The hat is quick to make. I had to restart several times while I was figuring out a pattern, and I was also eating a very delicious plate of fish and chips (AWAY from the yarn — this setup was only for Instagram!), but I made the hat from start to finish within 4 hours, so making it from the pattern should take much less time!

2) Since it’s such a quick make, I’m hoping that this will encourage you to make one for yourself and make another to pass it on to someone who can really use a thick and warm hat!

Behold the cozy yarn pile — by the time I finished the hat we’ve collected 114 finished items! :D

The event took place at a pub, which has an upstairs library with couches and fireplace, perfect for yarn-crafting and provided backgrounds for my photo shoot that are much more interesting than what I usually have :D

The hat is worked sideways then seamed together. It has rows of braided puff stitch and texture created by crocheting into the 3rd loop on the back of a half-double crochet stitch. If you haven’t tried neither of those stitches, don’t worry, I took plenty of process photos to show how it’s done :)

The hat measures about 9″ tall (brim folded) and 20″ around. 

Material:

Two skeins of Bernat Softee Chunky, or other super bulky weight yarn (the hat uses about 150 yards, so 3 skeins would make 2 hats! :D)

Contrasting colour yarn for pom pom.

9 mm hook, and a smaller hook for weaving in ends.

Yarn needle.

Pattern:

*Note: beginning ch does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern.

Row 1 (RS): ch 26, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end. (24 hdc’s)

Row 2 (WS): ch 1, hdc in back loop only (BLO) in the first 6 hdc’s, then hdc in the 3rd loop in each of the remainder of the hdc’s, like so…

You would insert the hook into the strands of yarn in the direction of the arrows. This creates a nice raised braid on the right side :)

Row 3: (puff braid row) ch 3, skip first 2 hdc, dc in next hdc…

[yo and pull up a loop] three times in the first hdc of the row, then pull through all loops on hook (puff stitch made)…

*skip next hdc, dc in next hdc, puff st in the same hdc as last dc made* rep from * to * till there are 7 hdc’s left in row, dc BLO in each hdc to end.

Row 4: (puff stitch row) ch 1, dc BLO in next 7 dc, sk next st, dc in next dc (between 2 puff st’s)…

puff st in the st before the skipped st…

*skip next st, dc in next st, puff st in st before skipped st* rep from * to * till end of row. When arriving at the end of row, work last dc in the very last st…

Then end with a puff st.

Row 5: ch 1, make sure the first hdc is made in the very first st…

Then hdc in next 17 st’s, hdc BLO in last 6 st’s.

Row 6: ch 1, hdc BLO in first 6 hdc’s, hdc in the 3rd loop in the remaining 18 hdc’s.

Row 7: ch 1, hdc in first 18 hdc’s, hdc BLO in remaining 6 hdc’s.

Repeat rows 2–7 three more times, except in the last repeat, omit row 7 and end with row 6.

Decrease row at top: ch 1, 2 dc tog evenly across the top of the hat.

Cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. Thread yarn tail in yarn needle, weave yarn tail through the stitches at the top of hat, cinch close and tie to secure. Turn hat inside out, sew seam. Make and attach pom pom. Fold up the brim for extra warmth!

I hope you enjoy making the hat! Leave a comment if you have any questions or need clarifications. And if you’re looking for places to send your yarn-craft items… 

Here’s a list by the Toronto Knitters Guild of places that accept yarn-crafted goodness in Toronto.

Warm Hands Network collects and sends handmade items nationally and internationally, especially to northern locations.

For friends in the USA, the lists on Mental Floss and Red Heart may be good places to start :)

With glowing heart and busy hands — happy yarn-crafting!

 

 

may the porg be with you

I made a tiny porg!

Fan opinions about them seem to polarize. I happen to love them like I love all fuzzy round-shaped creatures. Its shape is so amigurumi-ready, and it reminded me of my penguin tots. I couldn’t help but had to make one. 

If you’ve made the penguin tots before, the porg is not different structurally but a bit more complicated with the colour changes.

It’s very carry-able and rides well in pocket, so it can always be with you :)

The upturned mouth of the actual porg makes my tiny version look sad, so I opted for a regular mouth instead. 

Here it is contemplating life, or deciding what to eat for lunch, by the jade plant.

To make your own tiny porg, you’ll need:

Small amount of mustard, white, brown and orange yarn in worsted weight

3.5 mm hook 

2.5 mm hook (for feet and weaving in ends)

2 black safety eyes (3mm), or round black beads

Black thread and sewing needle

Yarn needle

Yarn ends (for stuffing), or polyester stuffing

Pattern:

Body:

Note: beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch throughout.

Round 1: With brown, ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, sc in the remaining loop of the next ch (the ch that has only 1 sc in it), sc in the next ch (the ch with the beginning 2 sc in it), sl st in first sc of round.

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next sc (the sc with the beginning 2 sc in it), sl st in first sc of round.

In the next round we begin to incorporate other colours. Here’s a tutorial on how to change colours seamlessly, in case it’s helpful.

Round 3: ch 1, in back loop only, sc in next 7 sc. When completing the 7th sc, attach and change to white. Carrying the brown yarn (i.e. wrap it in your stitch) as you crochet with white, sc in the next 4 sc. When completing the 4th sc, change back to brown, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc.

Round 4: With brown, ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, change to white, carrying the brown as you go, sc in next 4 sc, change to brown, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc.

Round 5: Repeat round 4.

Round 6: With brown, ch 1, sc in next 6 sc. Change to yellow and carrying brown as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to white and carry the brown and yellow as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to yellow and carry the brown as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to brown, sl st in first sc.

Round 7: Repeat around 6.

After round 7, install safety eyes (or sew on beads for eyes) in between the 2 yellow stitches between rounds 6 and 7. Sew on mouth. Stuff with yarn ends or stuffing.

Round 8: With brown, ch 1, 2 sc tog three times, change to yellow and fasten off brown, 2 sc tog with yellow, change to white and carry the yellow as you go, 2 sc tog with white, change to yellow and fasten off white, 2 sc tog with yellow, sl st in first sc of round, fasten off, leave a long tail. Weave the tail in the remaining stitches around and cinch the opening close, secure and fasten off, weave in ends.

Wings (make 2): With brown, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (forming a point), sc in ch with the 5 sc in it, sl st in first sc of round, leave a tail for sewing, fasten off. (I only leave a tail for sewing on one wing, not both.

Sew on wings: Position the wing with the yarn tail for sewing on the side of the body, thread the yarn needle in the yarn tail, insert needle where you want the first wing, pull the needle through the body so the needle comes out on the other side where you want the other wing to be. Thread the other wing through the needle, and sew back and forth through the body to secure both wings at the same time. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Feet:

Feet are made linked together with a few ch in between.

With orange, *ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in very first ch made, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in very first ch made*, ch 2 (link between feet), then repeat from * to * once more. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Position feet under body and sew on with yarn tail, fasten off and weave in ends.

The porg is ready for adventures!

Tiny porg wishes everyone an awesome week!

 

happy scrappy sweater

Start the new year right! Use up those scrap yarn to make room for new ones! :D

And get some knitting looms! So you can make this happy scrappy loom-knitting sweater! :D

*Disclaimer: I have not received compensations for any knitting loom manufacturers* (but maybe I should…)

I just… love the simplicity, the rustic fisherman look, the double thick, super warm fabric.

So! If you have a knitting loom, or if you’d like to get one and try your hands on loom knitting, here’s how this raglan sweater was made. 

(Haven’t tried loom knitting much but want to tackle a sweater project? No fear! I’ll have video tutorials throughout to show you different stitches. I did start with making hats and headbands first but the sweater really isn’t much harder.)

I used:

A 41-peg round loom (the largest in the set). I got mine in a set by Loops & Threads at Michaels (for medium to bulky yarn). It was about $20 and I had a 55% off coupon so it ended up being quite affordable.

Worsted weight yarn. I knitted with 2 strands of yarn held together throughout. I had a large ball of over 1000 yards of forest green (I can’t remember what brand and lost the label) that I used throughout, then just added different colours of scrap yarn as I went. 

6 mm crochet hook for casting on. Smaller hook for weaving in ends.

Yarn needle (that came with the loom set).

Sizing:

The size I made was 33″ around. I would have liked it larger. Given that I’m on the small scale of humans, I’m going to write the pattern for 37″ so it might work for more people. 37″ is the largest size the loom can make, for this pattern. Below are the approximate measurements, with 2 stitches = 1″ and 3 rows = 1″. The actual measurements for your sweater may vary depending on the kind of yarn you use.

Pattern:

Notes: 

Knit with 2 strands of yarn held together throughout. I used one colour consistently and just added different colours of scrap yarn. To change colour, I simply cut the working yarn and tie on a different colour. Very high-tech ;)

The pattern consists of 4 pieces: front, back, 2 sleeves. They’re sewn together in the 4 diagonal seams from under arm to collar, then sleeves are sewn together under the arm, and the sides are sewn together. 

Wherever “knit” or “k” is indicated in the pattern, it means the e-wrap stitch.

Front/Back (make 2):

Cast on all the pegs around the loom using this chain cast on method with a crochet hook, but don’t join in the round. I tend to cast on quite tightly so that the edges are as neat as possible (41 sts.)

Work k1 p1 rib for 6 rows. (video tutorial for k1 p1 rib here)

Continue knitting using the e-wrap stitch (e-wrap video here) until piece reach 13″.  

Now we begin decreasing towards the collar (yoke).

Yoke row 1: In the next row, decrease 1 by moving the loop on the last peg to the one next to it, e-wrap and knit off the 2 bottom loops on peg. Continue knitting until 2 stitches remain. Move the loop on the last peg to the second last peg, e-wrap and knit off the 2 bottom loops on peg. Decrease done! Simple, right? (Here’s a decrease video to summarize the action)

Yoke rows 2–3: Knit 2 rows even.

Repeat yoke rows 1–3 eight more times, then work yoke row 1 (decrease row) once more. 28 rows in yoke altogether, 21 stitches remain.

Work k1 p1 rib for 5 rows. 

Bind off (bind off video here).

Sleeves (make 2):

Chain cast on (same as front/back) 19 sts. 

Work k1 p1 rib for 5 rows.

Sleeve row 1–7: Knit 5 rows even.

Sleeve row 8 (increase): knit 2, make 1 (m1), knit until 2 stitches remain, m1, knit 2. (make 1 video here — the person in the video uses a different knit stitch method but you can continue using the e-wrap for this)

Repeat sleeve rows 1–8 seven more times — 64 rows altogether, increased to 35 sts.

Now we decrease for shoulder.

Shoulder row 1: knit 1 row even.

Shoulder row 2: decrease 1, knit till 2 stitches remain, decrease (see yoke row 1 above).

Repeat shoulder rows 1–2 thirteen more times, 28 rows altogether in shoulder, 7 stitches remain.

Work k1 p1 rib for 5 rows. Bind off.

Assembly:

With wrong side facing, and using one strand of yarn only (to reduce bulk), sew raglan seams together connecting sleeve pieces to front and back pieces. Sew sleeve together under the arm and continue sewing together the sides. Repeat with other sleeve/side.

Voilà!

And! I got this incredible t-rex wooden sculpture from a dear friend :D Isn’t it the most awesome thing?

If you do give it a try do drop me a line! Cheers to a fantastic roaring year! 

  

 

tutorials, tutorials, tutorials

Remember sakura mochi? :D

He’s the first ever posted pattern on this blog!! Feels like ages ago. It is ages ago. It was in March 2010 that I started this blog, and today it is home to over 40 tiny plush patterns, almost 20 wearable patterns, and over 30 other craft tutorials.

When I came up with the numbers I was quite blown away myself! Actually I was more blown away by the fact that I never counted or took stock of what has been created on this blog until now. Really because I have two days off, with nothing planned, but only had to use up the vacation hours that would otherwise be lost by the end of the year. 

So I did a tutorial overhaul! :D

I realized that even when I was scrolling through my own tutorials it was tedious to have to scroll forever back and forth to find what I need. So I categorized them! 

If you go to the Tutorials page now, you’ll see a list of categories, from tiny plush to non-yarn crafts! 

I don’t know how to do this just yet but in the future I hope to layout the tutorials in a grid rather than a list, like I see on other nice modern looking blogs :) But I hope at least the categories make things easier to find.

In the beginning this blog was more for me as a way to feel motivated to create, and record patterns and how-to’s that I come up with so I can go back to them later if I need to remake something. I really only expected about a dozen people reading it, mostly my family and friends. It’s never intended to make profit. I welcome yarn and related products and promote yarn-related businesses by writing review posts, but I always turn down offers for ads. I have not yet written a pattern for sale. I’m lazy about the blog’s appearance (hence the long overdue tutorial overhaul and the early 2000’s look, kind of like my everyday appearance :S). But it’s a comfortable place that I always go back to, a virtual home, updating and writing posts even when I’m swamped, even when I don’t feel like it, even when I thought it’s not amounting to anything, even when WordPress tells me that my readership is dwindling. Somehow, I want to keep it alive.

Since then I’ve met many great people through this blog, sharing such kind comments and crafting along, letting me know that they’re trying out my patterns, exchanging notes so we can figure out modifications together, communicating in different languages across the continents (me using Google Translate), actually exchanging snail mail and hoping to one day meet in person… I’m so grateful for the connections and for the kindness you’ve shown me and genuine mudpie. Perhaps it is not really the blog that I want to keep alive, but the connections and creativity that sustain this blog.

So cheers to you! Let’s craft forward! :D

 

loom knit a plum pudding!

It’s my latest craze! I can’t seem to get back to the needles at the moment… I’m sure I will, but right now I’m just looking for all kinds of things to loom knit. I saw some really cute crocheted and knitted tea cozies in the shape of plum pudding lately, and I thought I could probably loom knit one! So here it is :D

I’ve actually never had plum pudding, but always thought it’s the cutest-looking Christmas-related thing! The lighting in my apartment is quite poor especially in the evening, but here’s a better look at the tea cozy.

I thought I’d share what I did here, in case you’re a loom knitter and want to give it a try, or if you also want to try your hands on loom knitting (it’s so much fun!), and for myself to remember when I need to make one or a few more next year :D 

I used this 31-peg loom, it came in a set of 4 by Loops and Threads at Michaels. I bought it because it’s affordable, especially with the weekly Michaels coupon, for my first try with loom knitting. I’m not sure why this particular loom has an odd number of pegs, because I thought all round looms have even number of pegs… but it worked anyway.

I used:

Worsted weight yarn in brown and white, with 2 strands held together throughout

A bit of worsted weight yarn in green and red

3.5 mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

How to:

To begin, cast on using chain cast on (I learned using this video) with brown.

Then, using e-wraps (here’s a tutorial), work 8 rows around. The tea cozy uses e-wraps throughout.

We now separate front and back pieces.

Front:

Work 16 stitches back and forth (to create a flat panel) for 7 rows (video on how to make a flat panel here).

Then, incorporate white using this chart.

Start with the bottom row. Work two stitches of brown. Make a slip knot with white and put on next peg, and work this stitch. When wrapping the next peg with white, make sure that the brown working yarn is laying on top of the white working yarn, thus carrying the brown yarn along. Continue following the chart, carrying the brown when wrapping with the white, and vice versa.

After finishing the chart, work 10 rows back and forth in white. (My teapot is a bit on the tall side standing at 6.5″ including lid, so if your teapot is smaller, you can probably omit a few rows.) Cut yarn.

Back:

Attach brown to the first unworked peg at row 8. Wrap and knit the remaining 15 unworked stitches for 7 rows. 

Follow the chart for the next 3 rows. If you have the same loom as me you would need to omit either the far left or far right column of the chart.

Work 10 rows in white (or the same number of rows on the other side). 

Work 5 rows in the round. Tie and secure the yarn tail when you get to the peg where the yarn was cut at the end of the front piece.

Leaving a long tail, cut yarn. Thread yarn tail in needle, weave needle through each stitch while taking the stitch off the peg, gather and cinch the stitches together, turn piece inside out, weave the needle through the gathered stitches a few more times and tie off. Weave in all the ends. Turn piece right side out. 

Here’s close up of the completed icing chart…

Holly:

Leaves (make 3): Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, through back loop only, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, sc in next ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, sc in next ch*, sl st in next ch. Now working on the other side of the foundation chain, repeat from * to *, sl st in last ch, fasten off, weave in this end.

Berries (make 3): Leaving a long tail for sewing, 6 sc in magic ring, don’t join in the round, 1 sc in each sc for 2 rounds (or just work 12 sc’s), fasten off. Stuff tail end into berry. Thread beginning tail in needle, pull on tail to ensure magic ring is closed as tightly as possible, pass needle through the magic ring and the berry and prepare to sew on the pudding.

Assembly:

Sew leaves and berries onto the top of the plum pudding with the yarn tails, like so…

Put teapot in cozy, and we’re done! Pretty quick and easy. Makes a great gift for tea lovers :)

Have a cozy, happy weekend, everyone!

 

 

make a bath otter!

When we went to Vancouver a couple of months ago one of the most memorable things was seeing the adorable sea otters.

*heart eyes x1000*

So when the nice folks at Yarn Canada sent me some Red Heart Scrubby Cotton to try out and write a blog post about (they even sent candy and a nice note, aren’t they awesome?), I knew exactly what to make :)

A bath otter, floating on its back, holding your soap! XD

Actually, our test shows that the otter sinks after the holding the soap for a while… but still, it’s fun to see it floating on its back.

It makes a great bath toy, and a soap saver. If you have a tiny bit of soap left just stick it in it’s back pocket and scrub away :D

This cotton yarn is super absorbent and softer than regular polyester scrubby yarn, so it makes a great wash cloth. 

 

One skein of scrubby makes 2 otters with plenty leftover for a knit wash cloth, which is quite economical for holiday gift-making. 

If you make it with regular wool or acrylic, the pattern would also make a cute hand puppet! :D

I used:

One skein each of Red Heart Scrubby Cotton in tan and loofa

A bit of brown acrylic yarn for embroidering facial features

5.5 mm hook

Tapestry needle

Note:

The otter is worked from top down in the round in the top part, then worked back and forth in the lower part and seamed at the sides in order to create an opening in the back. Then arms and legs are crocheted separately and sewn on. Ears are crocheted directly onto the head. The texture of the yarn makes it a bit challenging to see the stitches, and it is sometimes a bit difficult to undo stitches, but it’s great for blending in yarn ends and sewn seams. This pattern is written with this in mind and the structure is made as simple as possible. 

This pattern requires knowing how to do colour change in mid row. If you’re not familiar, please check out this handy tutorial by Moogly :) 

Pattern:

Head & upper body:

Round 1: with tan, 10 sc in magic ring, don’t join in the round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc (20 sc).

Round 3: [1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around (30 sc).

Round 4: 1 sc in each sc around.

Repeat round 4 until piece is 3.5″ tall.

Mid-section area:

6 sc, attach loofa (white), 3 sc in white, switch back to tan.

sc in each sc around using tan, until the sc before the first white stitch in the row below, switch to white, sc in the next 5 sc using white, wrap the white strand and the working tan yarn in the stitches as you go, like so…

Switch back to tan and 1 sc in each sc using tan, until the stitch before the first white stitch in the row below, switch to white, sc in next 7 sc using white, switch back to tan.

Continue crocheting in the round, using tan in tan stitches and white in white stitches until there are 4 more rows with white stitches.

Then, sc in each sc around using tan until the first white stitch in the row below, sc with tan in first white stitch, switch to white, sc with white in next 5 sc, switch back to tan.

sc in each sc around around using tan until first white stitch in the row below, sc with tan in the first white stitch, switch to white, sc with white in the next 3 sc, switch back to tan, fasten off white. sc in next 6 sc using tan, turn, leave remaining stitches unworked.

Lower body:

Lower body is worked back and forth in rows over 15 stitches.

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next 15 sc, turn.

Rows 2–8: repeat row 1, leave a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

With right side facing, fold lower body piece up in half, sew side seams together.

Turn lower body piece right side out. At the back opening, sew together the top and bottom stitches closest to the seam on each side, like the picture below. To sew the other stitches closest to the other seam, I didn’t fasten off, I just wove the working yarn through the top edge of the bottom part of the opening, and actually cinched / gathered the stitches a bit to make the opening more sturdy.

Fasten off and weave in ends. The back would look like this…

Arms (make 2):

Row 1: Using tan, ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next 5 sc, turn.

Rows 3–5: repeat row 2, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

Fold arm in half so the first row meets the last row, using the yarn tail, sew along side and top of arm using whip stitch, then sew arm to body along the side, also using whip stitch.

Legs (make 2):

Row 1: Using tan, ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next 5 sc, turn.

Rows 3–7: repeat row 2, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

Fold leg in half so the first row meets the last row, using the yarn tail, sew along side and top of arm using whip stitch, then sew arm to body along the bottom of body, also using whip stitch.

Tail:

Row 1: ch 12, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in each sc, hdc in each hdc, turn.

Row 3: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in next 2 hdc, sc in each sc, leaving a tail for sewing, fasten off.

Sew tail to edge of bottom park of opening on back using whip stitch, like so.

Ears:

Insert hook through a stitch on the side of the head.

Pull up a loop of yarn and secure yarn.

Insert hook in a stitch to the left.

Pull up a loop, then yo and pull through both loops on hook, thus making an sc. Make 4 more sc in the same stitch, then sl st in a stitch to the left in head.

Repeat for the other ear on the other side of head.

Embroider eyes, nose and mouth with acrylic yarn. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ta-da!

As usual, let me know if you have any questions about the pattern! 

Special thanks to the nice people at Yarn Canada for thinking of me and sending the yarn :) Please do check out their website if you live in Canada, free shipping for orders over $45, or flat rate of $5!

Happy crafting!

 

ode to drumheller: albertosaurus!

*Drum roll* the final dinosaur to be unearthed is Alberto the albertosaurus! 

This calls for a dinosaur dance :D

The name Albertosaurus honours Alberta, the Canadian province in which the first fossils of this dinosaur was found the same year that the province was established, in 1905! (source) This whole series of mystery tiny dinosaurs is also inspired by our trip to Drumheller, Alberta, so I thought it’d be fitting to wrap up the series with the Albertosaurus.

I made them with bulky yarn and 4 mm hook. I have this variegated yarn that I thought would be perfect, and then thought it would also look rad in bright pink :D

While the Albertosaurus looks very much like Tyrannosaurus Rex, it is about half the size of T-Rex. Nevertheless, it was a fearsome dinosaur that hunted in packs. (source)

Unlike other dinosaurs in the series, which have the same features on both sides, Alberto is a one-sided dinosaur, because of the way the legs are made, so it won’t look quite right on the back side, but it would make a nice brooch or ornament.

The design is based on the Albertosaurus on the back of the ticket for Tyrrell Museum :D

This dinosaur is probably the most complicated of all in the series because of the legs. But there are lots of process photos so I hope that helps! If you need any clarifications please feel free to leave a comment!

You’ll need:

  • Small amount of Bulky weight yarn
  • 4 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Black seed bead, black sewing thread and sewing needle

(You can also use worsted weight yarn and 3.5 mm hook for a smaller dinosaur)

Pattern:

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc around).

Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] five times, 2 sc in next sc, sl st in next sc (17 sc and 1 sl st around).

Head/neck:

ch 7, [yo twice, pull up a loop] three times in 4th ch from hook, yo and pull through 4 loops on hook, yo and pull through the rest of the loops on hook (4 tr tog completed), ch 1, 4 sc around last tr made, it will look like this…

sl st in next ch in neck, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, hold body in half, sk next sc in body, sl st in next 6 sc in body/back of the dinosaur through both loops and both layers of the body piece, don’t fasten off and continue on to tail.

Tail: ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, sl st in a stitch at the tip of the folded body piece, like so…

Don’t fasten off, continue on to make legs.

Front leg:

Holding the dinosaur belly side up, insert hook into a stitch in round 2 of body, next to where the last sl st was made, and bring the hook out 2 stitches from where the hook was inserted in round 2 of body, like so…

yo and pull through loop on hook. It will look like this.

yo and pull through loop on hook again, so it looks like this…

See there’s a long vertical strand of yarn made, essentially a very elongated sc. Work 2 dc tog around this vertical strand, like so…

This makes the thigh! :D

ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop in next 2 ch, then pull the last loop on hook through the other 2 loops on hook, sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, don’t fasten off and continue on to back leg.

Back leg:

Insert hook from the bottom (a stitch in round 1) of body to a stitch in round 2 of body in the back, like so…

yo and pull through loop on hook. There will be a vertical strand of yarn made like the one in front leg. sl st around the vertical strand in back, then continue to make the leg with the front facing you. It will look like this from the front.

ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop in next 2 ch, pull last loop on hook through the other 2 loops on hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in the vertical strand…

ch 1, pull out a 20″ length of yarn, cut yarn.

Arms:

Thread yarn tail in tapestry needle, insert needle in the underside of body, and out in the front of body where the arm would be, like so…

Remove the needle. From the front of the body, insert hook where the yarn tail came out and draw up a loop. It will look like this.

ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, remove hook and pull out the yarn tail.

Using the hook, pull the yarn tail to the back of body where the other yarn would be, insert hook where the yarn tail came out, draw up a loop, like so…

ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch, pull up a loop in next 2 ch, pull last loop on hook through the 2 other loops on hook, remove hook and pull out yarn tail.

Thread yarn tail through tapestry needle, insert needle at the beginning of the back arm and come out through a stitch at the top in the back, fasten off, weave in end. Sew on eye. Rawr.

I hope you enjoyed this series! Don’t forget to share your dino pics by:

 

  • Bloggers: leaving a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagrammers: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Ravellers: joining the Ravelry group and posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

There will be a virtual dino party with all your pictures in the near future, stay tuned! :D

 

You can find all the other mystery dino CAL posts here:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

Bronwyn the Brontosaurus

Nessie the Plesiosaurus

Kintaro the Pterosaur

 

Have a rawring week, everyone! :D

 

 

mystery dino CAL: pterosaur!

Can’t believe we’re at the second last episode of mystery dino CAL already! This week’s dinosaur is Kintaro the pterosaur!

Pterosaur is technically a flying reptile and not a dinosaur, but that doesn’t make it any less iconic in our collective imagination of the prehistoric world! The word pterosaur literally means “winged-lizard”, the largest of this species had a wingspan as wide as a small plane. It is believed that they could fly as soon as they are hatched, and ate small fish and could filter small fish from water with teeth like those of whales. (source)

Kintaro, on the other hand, means “golden boy” in Japanese, and is a hero of extraordinary strengths and friends of animals in Japanese folklore :) (source)

The construction for Kintaro is a bit more complicated than other dinosaurs because of the wings, it’s a good next step in level of crochet challenge if you have been crocheting along! If you are new to the series, this is still not too difficult and there are some photos to guide you along, and you can find all the other dinosaurs here.

You’ll need:

  • A bit of worsted weight yarn
  • 3.5 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Black thread, sewing needle, and seed beads for eyes

Pattern:

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc around).

Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] five times, 2 sc in next sc, sl st in next sc (17 sc and 1 sl st around).

Neck and head:

ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in next ch, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in next ch, pull through all loops on hook (head made), ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch, hdc in the same ch as second half of the head (skull crest made), sc in next 2 ch of neck, continue on to wings…

Wings, tail and leg:

The rows of the wings run perpendicular to the body.

With body piece folded in half, sl st in first 2 sc of back after the neck through both layers of body. 

Then, ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, skip next sc in body, working in the front loops of the front layer of body only, sl st in next 2 sc in body, turn.

sc in next 4 sc of wing, sl st in next sc, turn.

Skip first sc, sl st in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sl st in next sc in body through front loops only, pull up a very long loop of yarn — I used 1.5 of a human wingspan’s length — and cut yarn.

Using tapestry needle and the long yarn tail, sew together the back towards the neck, through the remaining back loops of the front piece of body, and the back loops of the back piece of body, like so…

Remove the needle and using the long yarn tail, pull up a loop in the stitch to the right of the second sl st on body after the neck, like so…

Repeat pattern for wing.

sl st through both loops and both layers of body in next sc in body after the second wing, sl st in the last sc in body, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in the last sc in body (tail made), sl st in a stitch between the 2nd and 3rd round of body towards the underside of the body, ch 4, fasten off (one leg made).

Other leg:

Attach yarn to back of the body in the stitch between the 2nd and 3rd round, same as where the first leg is attached. ch 4, fasten off.

Weave in ends. Trim the yarn tails on the end of the legs and fray them a bit so they look like claws. Sew on eyes. And it’s done!

Here’s Kintaro flying over Mike’s head reminding him to work hard ^_^; 

 

To recap, here are the mystery dino CAL posts so far:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

Bronwyn the Brontosaurus

Nessie the Plesiosaurus

 

Share your dinosaur pics by:

  • Bloggers: leaving a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagrammers: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Ravellers: joining the Ravelry group and posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

 

Stay tuned for the grand finale of the mystery dino CAL! :D Happy weekend everyone!

 

mystery dino CAL: plesiosaurus!

 

The 5th dinosaur is Nessie the Plesiosaurus!

The name plesiosaurus derives from Greek words for “almost-lizard”. Contrary to popular imagination, plesiosaurus were not great swimmers and could not breathe underwater. It also laid eggs and buried them in soft sand like sea turtles. It measured twice as long as a horse, and weighted twice as much as a pig. (source)

Here are two Nessies bobbing along in the ocean. The larger blue version is made with bulky weight yarn and 4 mm hook, and the pale green version is made with the usual worsted weight yarn and 3.5 mm hook.

As you may notice, plesiosaurus is crocheted mostly the same as brontosaurus, but with flippers. I took some process pictures to show you how I got the flippers on :D

I used:

  • Small amount of worsted weight yarn
  • 3.5 mm hook
  • 2.5 mm hook (optional, but it’s easier for weaving in ends)
  • Sewing needle, black thread and seed beads for eyes

Pattern:

Make body, neck and tail the same as brontosaurus, as follows.

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc).

Round 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] six times (18 sc).

Round 4: sc in next 17 sc, sl st in next sc, don’t fasten off.

Neck & head: ch 8, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in the 3rd ch from hook, pull through all loops on hook, ch 1 (popcorn stitch made), 2 sc in the same ch as popcorn stitch, 1 sc in each ch down the neck, continue on to back of the dinosaur…

Back: Fold body in half, skip the sc immediately next to the neck ch (on both sides), sl st in next sc and each sc through both layers of body across back, continue on to tail…

Tail: sl st in last st through both layers on back, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in last 2 ch of tail, sl st in a space between the 3rd and 4th round in the body (belly part of the dinosaur). Fasten off.

Flippers:

ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc and hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, pull yarn through loop, leaving a tail 18″-20″ long, cut yarn. It will look like this.

With right side facing, insert hook from the back of the dinosaur into a stitch where you want to position the first set of flippers, between the 2nd and 3rd rounds of body, like so…

Then, pull the yarn tail of the flipper just made through the body, like so…

With the wrong side of the dinosaur facing and the dinosaur positioned upside down, insert hook through the body again in the same stitch, then pull up a loop using the yarn tail, like so…

Then, ch 5, and continue with stitches for the other flipper.

After the last sl st made in flipper, pull out yarn tail, and weave it into the body through the same stitch where the flippers are attached.

Repeat as the start of the other flippers.

With right side facing and the dinosaur right side up, insert hook from the back in a stitch between rounds 2 and 3 of body, where you want to position the other set of flippers, like so…

Repeat as the other set of flippers.

Sew on eyes, and we’re done! :)

 

To recap, here are the mystery dino CAL posts so far:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

Bronwyn the Brontosaurus

 

Make a splash with your dinosaur pics by:

  • Leaving a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagram: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Joining the Ravelry group
  • Posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

 

Hope everyone is having a great weekend! :D