stegosaurus love

When this pattern goes online I should be arriving in Drumheller, Alberta — dinosaur capital of the world! I’ve been looking forward to this trip for ages, and stegosaurus is my all-time favourite dinosaur since childhood, so I thought I’d share a pattern to mark the occasion :D

It’s been a while since I wrote an amigurumi pattern, hope I’m not too rusty! This stegosaurus actually evolved from the dumpling pattern I wrote a long time ago. I wonder what the stegosaurus would think about that, evolving from a dumpling…

Anyway, here he is sitting on my hand for scale. Probably makes a nice pin/brooch or magnet!

This pattern is super easy and takes very little time and yarn. To make your own tiny stegosaurus, you’ll need:

  • A bit of worsted weight yarn for main colour for body, and contrasting colour for spikes
  • 3.5 mm and 3 mm crochet hooks (if you only have either size, that’s fine too)
  • Tapestry needle (very important! You’ll see in the pictures)
  • Black seed beads
  • Black thread and sewing needle

Pattern:

The body begins as a circle, and with larger hook.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc).

Round 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] six times (18 sc).

Round 4: sc in each sc around (18 sc), don’t fasten off.

Next, we make the head: in the same sc where last sc was made, [yo, pull up a loop] three times, pull through all loops on hook, ch 1 (cluster made), sc in same sc as cluster. Don’t fasten off.

We now fold the piece in half, and from here on crochet through both layers across the back of the dinosaur.

Back: sl st in next sc on body through both layers, like so…

sl st in next sc — attach contrasting colour yarn when pulling up loop to finish the sl st, like so…

Carry the main colour as you work across back with contrasting colour.

Spikes: with contrasting colour, [ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next sc in body (working through both layers)] five times.

Here is a picture of the spikes in progress, notice that the main colour is being carried and wrapped in the stitches across back.

In the last sl st of spike, pull up loop using main colour, thereby switching back to main colour. Fasten off contrasting colour.

Tail: with main colour, sl st in last st through both layers on back, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in last 2 ch of tail, sl st in a space between the 3rd and 4th round in the body (belly part of the dinosaur). Remove hook and pull out the loop, as shown in the picture. Pull through enough yarn so that you have a 12″ tail. Cut yarn.

Hind leg: Thread the yarn tail through the tapestry needle, weave the needle through the belly of the dinosaur so that the needle comes out through the 2nd and 3rd rounds of body in the front, like so…

Pull the yarn tail through, remove the needle. Insert smaller hook (if you have it) through the stitch where the yarn tail came through…

Pull up a loop using the yarn tail…

ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, remove hook and pull the yarn tail out, like so… 

Thread the yarn tail through the tapestry needle again, insert needle in a stitch between 1st and 2nd round in body, then come out in a stitch between 1st and 2nd round in body in the front on the opposite side, like so…

Front leg: Work as the same as hind leg, as follows: remove needle, insert hook through the stitch where the yarn tail came through, pull up a loop with the yarn tail. ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull out yarn tail, thread yarn tail back in tapestry needle, insert needle through a stitch between 2nd and 3rd round of body, then come out near the top on the back of the piece, fasten off.

Weave in all the ends. Pull the long yarn tail into the body of the dinosaur to fill it out a bit :)

Tail spikes: Cut a length of contrasting colour yarn about 3 inches long. With wrong side facing, pull up a loop through a stitch at the end of the tail with the short length of yarn, then pull the two short yarn tail through the loop just made. Pull tight carefully. Trim spikes. Apply a bit of fabric glue at the base of the spikes. 

And it’s done!

Stegosaurus in its natural habitat…

Let me know if you do make your own tiny stegosaurus, I’d love to see it! If there are enough pictures we’ll have a virtual stegosaurus party and it will be fun, so please share! :D

Happy crocheting!

 

mid summer plumeria

In an earlier post I talked about trying out a diamond lace pattern for a summer sweater. So it’s finally done! 

I used less than one skein of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (large ball, 340g) in Queen Ann’s Lace Ombre. I had started this sweater with the goal of using up the ball of yarn after making a couple of dish cloths. So I was able to make two dish cloths (one was crocheted too! The other knitted) AND a sweater out of one ball of yarn. Now, the sweater is of a cropped style and I’m a small person, and I did use an extra small skein of pale yellow for the ribbing, but still! I was quite happy with the ball of yarn :) The striping also worked out quite evenly with garter stitch. Kind of retro feel.

It’s essentially a boat-neck square top. Pretty easy to make, and quite comfortable, perfect for mid/late summer evenings, or hanging out by the waters where there’s a bit of a breeze. 

This is more of an adaptation of a pattern than an original pattern. There is no way I’d have the skills to come up with the diamond lace pattern. The chart comes from the Diamond Girl sweater pattern by Red Heart (linking to its Ravelry page here, as the direct link to the pattern site doesn’t seem to work).

What I used:

One ball of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (large, 340g) in Queen Ann’s Lace Ombre

One skein of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (small, 50g) in Pale Yellow

6mm circular needles (36″)

5mm circular needles (9″ — for sleeves ribbing and collar)

Tapestry needle for sewing up seams

Finished size I made: Bust 35″, length 16.5″ (size adjustment in italics below)

 

Note: 

The instruction below does require knowing how to read knitting charts.

The sweater starts from the bottom ribbing of front piece, knitting body up to neck, binding off a number of stitches in the centre for collar, then in the next row casting on the same number of stitches using cable cast on, then continuing down the body of back, ending with ribbing at bottom edge. The side seams are then sewn, then collar edging and armhole ribbing are worked using smaller circular needles.

What I did:

1. Download diamond lace chart. (Try following the link on its Ravelry page, or copy and paste the following link in your browser. Clicking on the link itself seems to only open up the Red Heart general site, not sure why: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/diamond-girl-top)

2. With larger needles and pale yellow yarn, cast on 65 st. Work 1x1 rib for 9 rows.

The chart is a 16 st pattern repeat, the easiest way to size up would be adding 16 st to cast on = CO 81. 16″=approx. 4.25″ in this gauge. CO 81 would therefore result in 43.5″ around.

3. Fasten off pale yellow, attach main colour yarn, begin working diamond lace chart across. Use knit stitch in every row.

4. Repeat chart 4 times. (or more repeats if you’d like a longer sweater)

5. Next row: knit 12 st, bind off 41 st, knit 12 st. (For larger size i.e. CO 81, suggest knit 16, bind off 49, knit 16.) 

6. Next row: knit 12 st, cast on 41 st using cable cast on, knit 12 st. (For larger size i.e. CO 81, suggest knit 16, cast on 49, knit 16.) 

7. Next row: knit every stitch.

8. Next row: begin diamond lace pattern, repeat pattern 4 times. (or more times if you’d like a longer sweater, same number of repeats as the other side of sweater)

9. Fasten off main colour, attach pale yellow, work 1x1 ribbing for 9 rows. Bind off.

10. Assembly: Sew up side seams from bottom of sweater to under arm, approx. the length of 2 diamond lace pattern repeats. (or adjust to your measurement)

11. Sleeves: Turn sweater right side out. Using smaller needles, attach pale yellow to arm opening at underarm seam, pick up and work 1x1 ribbing evenly around arm opening, for 6 rows, then bind off. Repeat for the other arm opening, ensuring the same number of stitches on each sleeve.

12. Collar: Using smaller needles, attach pale yellow at centre back of collar, pick up and knit evenly around collar. Knit one more row around, bind off.

Weave in all ends, and we’re done! :D

Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions or need clarifications! Have a happy, crafty week! :D

 

wicker

Made with simple V-stitch, the resulting texture reminds me of wicker furniture. 

It’s an open front, light cardigan with a seamless construction. That’s right — no sewing, no sewing at all :)

Simple stitch pattern means easy to customize. The size I made is 34″. I’ve added suggestions for increasing size in italics.

I used one ball of Lion Brand Pound of Love and a 5.5 mm hook.

The cardigan is made top down.

Stitch pattern:

v-stitch (v-st): dc in stitch indicated, ch 1, dc in same stitch

Back

ch 66

Add 6 ch to the beginning ch for every inch you’d like to increase.

Row 1: v-st in 6th ch from hook, [sk 2 ch, v-st in next ch] till last 3 ch, dc in last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), [v-st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turning ch.

Repeat row 2 eleven (11) more times. Fasten off. 13 rows altogether.

For larger size, work 2 more rows for every 6 ch added to the beginning ch.

Right front

Turn piece upside down, so that the beginning ch is at the top. Attach yarn to top right corner of piece.

Row 1: ch 3, [v-st in the base of the v-st  from row 1 of back (it would be upside down)] 6 times, dc in the base of next v-st.

For larger size, work 1 more v-st for every 6 ch added to the beginning ch.

Row 2: ch 3, [v-st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 eleven (11) more times. Fasten off. 13 rows altogether.

Left front

Re-position the piece so that the unworked side of the shoulder is at top right. Attach yarn to top right corner.

Repeat rows 1–13 of left front. Don’t fasten off.

Join front and back

Join row: ch 3, v-st in every ch 1 sp across left front, dc in last dc of left front, dc in first dc of back, v-st in every ch 1 sp across back, dc in last dc of back, dc in first dc of right front, v-st in every ch 1 sp across right front, dc in last dc of right front, turn.

Body

Row 1 after joining: ch 3, v-st in every ch 1 sp until under arm, v-st in between the last dc of front and first dc of back, mark v-st just made, v-st in every ch 1 sp until under arm, v-st in between last dc of back and first dc of front, mark v-st just made, v-st in every ch 1 sp, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, [v-st in ch 1 sp] to end, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until piece is 19″ from shoulder, or desired length. Fasten off.

Sleeve

Sleeve is made in the round, turning at the end of every row. You will now be working along the side or ends of the rows in the front and back pieces. You will be making v-st around the dc (which I will call the horizontal bar below) and in the joining point between rows (which I will call joining point below — it is either the top of a dc or turning ch, so you can just make a v-st into it like you would usually do into a dc or ch).

Row 1: Attach yarn to the base of marked v-st in underarm, ch 4, dc in same place. sk the first horizontal bar, [v-st in next joining point, sk the next horizontal bar and the next joining point, v-st in next horizontal bar, sk the next joining point and horizontal bar] to end of round, sl st in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

This might help illustrate where I’m putting the stitches. The circles are the joining points, and the dashes are the horizontal bars. The v’s are the v-st.

Row 2: ch 3, [v-st in ch 1 sp] around, sl st in top of beginning ch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until sleeve is 17.5″ long, or desired length. End on a wrong side row so next row begin with right side facing. Don’t fasten off.

Cuff

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as sc), [sc in next ch 1 sp, sc in between two v-st] around, sl st in first sc, don’t turn.

Row 2: ch 1, in the back loop only, sc in every sc around, sl st in first sc, don’t turn.

Repeat row 2 two (2) more times. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve and cuff.

Front border / collar

Row 1 (RS): Attach yarn to bottom corner of right front, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc around every horizontal row end (horizontal bar as described above in sleeve) up along front, across back of neck, and down front again, turn.

Row 2 (WS): ch 2, in front loop only, hdc in every hdc to end, turn.

Row 3 (RS): ch 2, in back loop only, hdc in every hdc to end, turn.

Repeat rows 2–3 once more (or until desired width), then work row 2 again once. Don’t fasten off.

Bottom edge

Row 1 (WS): ch 1, 1 sc in every row-end of the hdc rows in border, 1 sc in every st across body of cardigan, then 1 sc in every row-end of border, turn.

Row 2 (RS): ch 1, in back loop only 1 sc in every sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

All finished. No sewing, as promised :)

Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions! Happy crocheting :)

 

spring forward

Winter seems to be dragging on in my corner of the world, but that doesn’t stop us from getting ready for sandal weather and looking forward to blooming trees :)

Last year I tried crocheting shoes because I hate shoe shopping. I made some shoes and sandals with jute soles, I was quite happy with how the pattern turned out, but the jute sole turned out to be a bit bumpy and uncomfortable after walking in them for a while. Several friends have sent me this crocheted shoes pattern by Make & Do Crew, so I thought I’d try using flip flop soles this time.

And I think they turned out not so bad! :D

I thought I’d share how I made them here. As much as I’m sharing it with you, I’m also recording it so I can remember what to do when these wear out, because they’re really quite comfortable! If you try to make them I hope you’d like them too :) It took me just two evenings to make them and I was taking process photos and such, so it’s a fairly quick project. And apologies in advance about the poorly lit process photos! The weather has been so drab lately and the lighting in our apartment is bad :S but hopefully the what the photos are trying to show is clear! If not, drop me a note!

I used:

One pair of flip flops (I bought mine from Old Navy for about $5 CAD, in size 5)

One skein of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (80 yrds, mine in Indigo)

3.5 mm hook, and a smaller hook (i.e. 2.5 mm) to weave in ends

Sewing needle

Sewing thread that matches the colour of yarn

2 half-inch buttons

A long sharp tool (I used an awl for bookbinding, but I know that’s not really an everyday handy tool, so I did a quick search for awl alternatives, and the results that came up were metal skewers and long crewel needles)

Masking tape or painter’s tape

Sharpie marker

Tape measure

Kitchen scissors

What I did:

First, I cut off the straps on the sandals with kitchen scissors. I left the bits of plastic in the holes where the straps were attached though, because I plan on wearing these outdoor and I don’t want holes in the soles of my shoes.

I then put painter’s across the soles and wrapped around the sides, the top piece of tape positioned just a bit above where the straps were attached at the top of the sole. On mine it’s about 1.5″ from the very top of the sole, but that would probably be different if you have a different size shoe. It doesn’t really matter, as long as the tapes on both shoes are positioned the same way. I put a couple more pieces of tape across so that the taped area is 2.5″ in length. Again you can make it longer or shorter, as long as both shoes are the same.

I then marked one side of the sole on the painter’s tape with a tape measure and marker, with a marking every quarter-inch apart, at about the midpoint of the thickness of the sole, starting at one edge of the taped area and ending at the other edge of the tape. 

I then poked holes at the markings and going through diagonally from the side to the top of the sole, coming out about quarter-inch away from the edge at the top of the sole, like so…

Repeat marking and poking holes on the other side of the sole. Remove all the tapes.

I put painter’s tape around the heel, starting and ending where the original sandal straps were attached at the bottom of the sole, and marked and poked holes in the same way I did one the sides of the sole. Remove the tapes when done.

Repeat for the other shoe. Make sure both shoes have the same number of holes!

With top of the sole facing, and a length of yarn and sewing needle, attach yarn to the first hole at the top on one side of the sole, like so…

Sew through the holes made with blanket stitch.

When you get to the last hole, reinsert the needle down from the top of the sole to the side of the sole, then tie off securely.

Don’t worry about all the loose ends, you can weave them in when you crochet the top and heel :)

Repeat the blanket stitch on the other side of the sole and the heel, then repeat on the other sole. It will look like this.

Now we’re ready to crochet! :D

Left Sandal Top:

With a blanket stitch, you would have a vertical thread and horizontal thread in each stitch. Attach yarn to the vertical thread on the top right of the sole, work 1 sc around this thread, then work 1 sc around the horizontal thread right next to it, then work 1 sc in every horizontal thread to the end of the row, and placing last sc around the last vertical thread of the row.

Second row and every row thereafter: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each sc, turn. 

You can put your foot on the sole and see how wide you need to make the top as you go. It’s good to make it a bit snug, I imagine it will stretch a bit as you wear it. There were 26 rows in mine. End with a wrong side row. 

Attach row: sl st in top left vertical thread of the blanket stitch on the sole, then sl st together next sc on the sandal top and next horizontal thread of blanket stitch on the sole, continue with sl st in next sc and next horizontal thread till end, end with sl st in vertical thread of last blanket stitch on the sole, fasten off.

Edging: Attach yarn to the vertical thread of the blanket stitch on the top right side of the sole, ch 1, sc evenly across top edge of sandal top. I find that repeating [1 sc in each of the next 3 end of sc row, skip 1 end of row] seems to work well. Ending with sl st in vertical thread of blanket stitch on the top left side sole, fasten off.

Repeat edging on the bottom edge of the sandal top. Weave in ends.

Left Sandal Heel:

Attach yarn to first vertical thread on the right side of the sole, work 1 sc around this thread, then work 1 sc in the horizontal thread right next to it, then work 1 sc in every horizontal thread to the end of the row, and placing last sc around the last vertical thread of the row.

Row 2–3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each sc, turn.

Row 4 (decrease row): ch 1, skip first sc, sc in next sc and each sc till there are 2 sc left, 2 sc tog, turn.

Repeat rows 2–4 twice more. Fasten off.

Edging: Attach yarn to the first vertical thread on the right side of the sole (same stitch where the heel started). ch 1, sc evenly up the side of the heel. I find that repeating [1 sc in each of the next 3 end of row, skip 1 end of row] seems to work well.

When you reach the top of the right side of the heel piece, ch 30, sc in the 6th ch from hook, sc in every ch (strap made), then sc in each sc across the top of the heel, then sc evenly down the other side of the heel, end with sl st in last vertical thread of the last blanket stitch on the heel, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Attach button with matching thread to the top left corner of the heel piece.

Right Sandal Top:

Make as left sandal top, except start by attaching yarn to the bottom left vertical thread on the sole. 

Right Sandal Heel:

Make as left sandal heel, except when crocheting edging, work sc evenly up the right side of the heel piece, then sc in each sc across the top of the heel piece, then ch 30, sc in 6th ch from hook, sc in each ch, then work sc evenly down the left side of the heel piece.

Finishing:

Sew button on each heel piece opposite of the strap.

Ready to roll :D

These are fairly plain-looking, but they’re my first try, and I do like simple designs. But maybe one day I’ll try to incorporate fancier stitch pattern or a closed toe version! As always if you have any questions please feel free to leave a comment below :)

Hope everyone is having a good weekend!

cumulus

Or, an exercise in crochet cables!

Cumulus is a shrug/cardigan with a ring of cables around the neck/front/back. 

 

The construction is quite simple. Basically, it’s making a 25″ x 26″ rectangle, folding it in half, sewing the side seams, then attaching yarn to crochet the sleeves in the round. Sleeves measure 11″ from where it joins the arm hole to cuff.

I used 5.5 mm and 5 mm hooks, and one ball of Lion Brand Pound of Love

Below are the stitches used, you can click on the link for instructions on how to make the stitches.

fdc = foundation double crochet

bpdc = back post double crochet

fpdc = front post double crochet

bptr = back post treble crochet (made the same way as bpdc, but make a treble crochet stitch instead of a double crochet stitch)

fptr = front post treble crochet (same as above)

Note: you might want to make the front/back post stitches a bit more loosely than you would when making a typical double crochet stitch, so that the post stitches are a bit taller to match the height of the regular dc’s. 

Pattern:

(RS) With larger hook, begin with 96 fdc. (you can add to the length of the shrug by adding more fdc stitches at this point. 4 dc = 1″)

Row 1 (WS): ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), [bpdc in next dc, dc in next dc, skip 3 dc, bptr in next 3 dc, turn, make 3 fptr in the skipped stitches, turn, dc in next dc after the 3 bptr, bpdc in next dc], dc in every dc till there are 11 stitches left, repeat from [ to ], dc in last dc, turn.

Here is a photo re-cap of how the cable was made. At the point where you’ve skipped 3 dc, bptr in next 3 dc from right to left as usual.

Now turn the piece. You’re only turning the piece temporarily because it’s easier to work from the other side to form the cable. fptr in the 3 skipped stitches from left to right. I’ve made the first of the 3 fptr in this picture.

Then turn the work back and continue on pattern.

Row 2: ch 3, [fpdc in next dc, dc in next dc, fpdc in next 6 stitches, dc in next dc, fpdc in next dc], dc in each dc till there are 11 stitches left, repeat from [ to ], dc in turning ch, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, [bpdc in next dc, dc in next dc, bpdc in next 6 stitches, dc in next dc, bpdc in next dc], dc in each dc till there are 11 stitches left, repeat from [ to ], dc in turning ch, turn. 

Row 4: repeat row 2

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until piece is 26″ from beginning, ending with Row 3. Fasten off.

Side seams:

Position piece so that the cables are horizontal. With wrong side facing out, fold piece in half (the hold is parallel to the cables). Starting from the bottom of each side, crochet the side seams together by matching the stitches on both layers and using slip stitch, crochet 22 sl st up each side.

Sleeves:

Turn piece right side out.

Attach yarn to a stitch near the side seam in the arm hole, ch 3, make 49 dc around the arm hole, turn.

Row 1: ch 3, dc in each dc around, sl st in top of turning ch, turn.

Row 2 (decrease row): ch 3, 2 dc tog, dc in each dc until the last 2 dc, 2 dc tog, sl st in top of turning ch, turn.

Row 3–4: repeat row 1.

Row 5: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3–5 seven more times. Work row 1 one more time. Don’t turn piece on the last row. 19 rows altogether on sleeve. 

Row 20 (RS): with smaller hook, ch 3, [fpdc in next st, dc in next st] repeat from [ to ] around, don’t turn.

Repeat row 20 twice. Fasten off. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Finishing:

Attach yarn anywhere on collar, with larger hook, work 2 sc around each dc or turning ch post around collar/front/back, sl st in first sc to complete round. Fasten off, weave in all ends.

Finished :)

Feel free to leave me a message in the comments if you have any questions! Happy crocheting!

 

pink fisherman

Made a colour block hat in bright pink this weekend :D

I usually don’t wear bright pink, it’s kind of outside my comfort zone, but it’s quite uplifting in February, where the days are short, grey, cold and snowy.

It incorporates the fisherman rib pattern that I learned from Purl Soho. The stitch makes an extra squishy fabric that’s very cozy for a hat. The hat is worked flat and then seamed. The resulting fabric is also quite stretchy, and I imagine the hat will stretch as it is being worn, so the stitch count is conservative, and it fits my head comfortably (21″ in circumference). But I’ve also included instruction for a larger size in parenthesis.

What I used:

Red Heart Soft Essentials in Peony (bulky) — one skein

Contrasting bulky weight yarn (I actually used Issac Mizrahi Lexington yarn in Irving, it’s a super bulky yarn that I untwisted, or split into 2 strands, and only used one strand at a time. It was a very time consuming, boring task, so I would suggest just using a regular bulky yarn, unless you’re in love with the Issac Mizrahi yarn like I was.)

6 mm straight needles

Tapestry needle

Toilet paper roll and scissors (for pom pom)

Pattern:

CO 56 (60) with pink.

Follow fisherman rib pattern for scarf until piece is 4″ from beginning.

Attached contrasting yarn, break off pink, and continue in pattern until piece is 6″ in length (or desired length, i.e. 7–8″ if you want a bit of a slouch)

Larger size only:

Row 1: *work in pattern for 8 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 2: work in pattern.

Row 3: *work in pattern for 7 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 4: work in pattern.

For all sizes, continue as follows:

Row 1: *work in pattern for 6 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 2: work in pattern.

Row 3: *work in pattern for 5 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 4: work in pattern.

Row 5: *work in pattern for 4 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 6: work in pattern.

Row 7: *work in pattern for 3 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 8: work in pattern.

Row 9: *work in pattern for 2 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 10: work in pattern.

Row 11: *work in pattern for 1 st, p2 tog* repeat from * to * to end.

Row 12: work in pattern.

Row 13: p2 tog to end. 

Leave a long tail for sewing a break off yarn, weave yarn tail through remaining stitches, cinch tightly and tie off. With wrong side out, use remaining yarn tail to sew up seam until pink section. Fasten off contrasting colour yarn tail. Using pink yarn, sew up the rest of the seam in pink section. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Pom pom making

Flatten a toilet paper roll, and used the flattened roll to make the pom pom as if it is a square of cardboard. This blog post has a nice photo tutorial.

As you shape the pom pom, leave the yarn tail that you used to tie the middle of the yarn wrap long. Use the yarn tail to attach the pom pom to the top of the hat.

Have a bright and happy weekend, everyone!

 

 

sideways reimagined

I wrote the pattern for the Sideways sweater a few years back, and wanted to make a new version based on the design with solid double crochet stitches. But then I thought just rows upon rows of double crochet stitches would be too plain to look at and too boring to make, so here’s what I came up with :D

It’s a very relaxed-looking pullover, with 3/4 sleeves. Use a soft yarn with nice drape. I used Caron Simply Soft, and it worked really well.

Size:
Finished circumference at bust: 37″ 
Sleeve circumference at upper arm: 14″
Sleeve length: 11.5″
Length: 22″ 

Material:
6.5 mm and 5.5 mm crochet hooks
Caron Simply Soft yarn in Dark Country Blue, 3 skeins

Note: 
Pullover is worked from side to side, starting from one sleeve cuff and ending at the other sleeve cuff, then folded in half along shoulders, and sewn together along underarm seams and side seams. The construction is fairly simple, so it would be easy to modify sizes. Pattern will include suggestions on making larger sizes.

Pattern

Sleeve

Row 1 (RS): with larger hook, ch 36, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. (34 dc — beginning ch 3 counts as a dc)

To increase sleeve circumference: for each additional inch, add 4 ch to the beginning ch 36. Note that the total stitch count will be increased as well.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as a dc throughout), dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 3–5: repeat row 2

Row 6: ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc until last two st, 2 dc in next dc, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Rows 7–11: repeat row 2

Row 12: repeat row 6

Rows 13–18: repeat rows 7–12 once more. (40 dc at row 18) 

To increase sleeve length: for each additional inch, work row 2 twice more.

Row 19: ch 3, dc in each dc to end, ch 45, fasten off.

To increase total length: for each additional inch, add 4 ch to the ch 45.

Front/Shoulder/Back

Row 1: reattach yarn to top of beginning ch of row 19, ch 47, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch, dc in each dc across sleeve, dc in each ch in the ch 45 from row 19, turn. (130 dc)

To increase length: if you’ve added ch to the previous ch 45, add the same number of ch to the ch 47 in row 1.Note that the total stitch count will be increased as well.

Rows 2–5: work as row 2 in sleeve.

To increase circumference at bust to 39″ (41″): repeat row 2 once (twice) more.

Row 6: ch 3, dc in next 61 dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 3, dc in each dc until ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 8: ch 3, dc in each dc until 2 dc before ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 9: ch 3, dc in each dc until ch 2 sp, [2dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2] twice, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Front

Row 1: ch 3, dc in each dc until 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, turn. Leave remaining st unworked.

Row 2: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each dc till 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 4: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 5: ch 3, dc in each dc till 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 6: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 3, dc in each dc till 2 dc before ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] four times, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 8: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] four times, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 9: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 10: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] three times, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 11: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, turn.

Row 12: ch 5, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, dc in each dc to end. Take hook off loop but keep loop on hold, don’t fasten off.

Back

Row 1: with a separate ball of yarn, attach yarn to the stitch to the left of the last stitch of row 1 of front. ch 3, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 2–12: repeat row 1.

Fasten off.

Front/shoulder/back

Row 1 (join row): place hook back in loop where it was left off in row 12 of front. ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of ch 5, dc in last dc made in back, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, [ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp] twice, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 4: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Row 5: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.

Row 6: ch 3, dc in each dc till ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 7–9: ch 3, dc in each dc to end. 

To increase circumference at bust to 39″ (41″): if you’ve added rows in the previous front/shoulder/back section, add the same number of rows here. 

Fasten off.

Sleeve

If you’ve made increases in the other sleeve, make sure that this sleeve has the same number of stitches and rows.

Row 1: From last stitch made, count 45 dc, join yarn at the 46th dc. ch 3, dc in next 39 st, turn.

Row 2: ch 3, 2 dc tog, dc in each dc till last 3 st, 2 dc tog, dc in top of turning ch, turn.

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each dc to end, turn.

Rows 4–7: repeat row 3.

Rows 8–19: repeat rows 2–7 two more times (34 dc). Fasten off.

Finishing

With right sides together, fold sweater along shoulders, and sew underarm and side seams together. Weave in ends.

With smaller hook, attach yarn at shoulder seam of neck opening. Work one row of sc evenly around neck opening.

With smaller hook, attach yarn at side seam of lower edge of sweater. Work one row of sc evenly around lower edge.

(2 sc in each end of row worked for me.)

 

Hope you enjoy this re-make! Drop me a note if you have any questions, or if you spot any mistakes, I’d greatly appreciate it!

Happy crafting!

 

the most sincere socks

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Tis the countdown to Christmas, I thought I’d share a most sincere idea for the most practical gift. Who doesn’t need an extra pair of socks? Great alternative to chocolate covered marshmallow Santas when you need to get an under $5 secret Santa gift. 

The pom pom on top is actually a fun festive hair tie! I’ll show you how I made that as well.

I got a pack of 5 reused yarn socks from MUJI, they’re soft and lovely (not to mention that it’s such a nice relaxing experiencing when browsing around at the MUJI store) and cost around $20 CAD, which rounds out to about $4 a pair. 

This is super simple and involves things that you probably have stashed away at home if you’re a crafter:

  • A new pair of socks in cupcake colour
  • An elastic band
  • Light card stock or scrapbooking paper (I bought a sheet of gold metallic paper from Michaels for 99 cents)
  • Cupcake wrapper template (there are tons of printable templates out there, I can’t seem to find the one I used >_<, but this one seems just as great)
  • Scissors
  • Scotch tape
  • Mug of tea (essential!)

Here we have our pair of socks, and the elastic band.

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With the socks stacked together, fold them in half lengthwise. The heels will stick out but that’s ok.

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Starting from the cuff end, roll up the socks.

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Secure the sock roll with elastic band.

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Have a sip of tea. Transfer cupcake wrapper pattern onto the back of card stock / scrapbooking paper, and cut out the pattern.

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Wrap the wrapper around the sock roll, and secure with a piece of tape.

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Repeat with all the pairs of socks you’ve got and set them aside.

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Now we make the pom pom hair tie :D 

I used: 

  • A fork
  • Small amount of red worsted weight yarn 
  • Small amount of sparkly silver yarn (for a festive touch)
  • Scissors
  • Hair elastics
  • Fabric glue (great to have, but not essential)

Using a fork to make small pom poms isn’t my original idea. There are a few tutorials out there, like this one from Eskimimi Makes.

Basically, you would wind the yarn around the prongs of the fork (as you can see I used two different yarns, and I cut off a length of the silver yarn for winding, rather than winding directly from the skein, to make things easier)…

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… after you’re done winding, cut yarn. Then cut a length of red yarn about 6 inches long, and tie the yarn around the middle by threading one yarn end through the base of the 2nd and 3rd prongs of the fork, and the other yarn end between the 2nd and 3rd prongs at the tip.

Trim the pom pom but leave the tying yarn long.

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Using the tying yarn, tie the pom pom to the hair elastic with double knot. Apply a dab of fabric glue (if you have it) to the knot to extra secure it.

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Here we have our cupcake toppings! I also bought these adorable strawberry bells from Etsy seller MimiLolo, I attached them to cell phone charm hangers (not sure if they’re called that, but you know what I mean), thought they’d make great zipper pull or festive backpack ornaments! :D

If you know that the gift recipient won’t like hair ties or zipper pulls, a simple Tootsie Pop might make the best alternative topping.

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I pulled the hair elastic / cell phone charm hanger through the middle of the sock rolls using a crochet hook.

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Ta-da! The most sincere socks of them all! Linus would be proud. (see It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown)

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I put some of them in recycled packaging from gift soaps.

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And I made a flat-bottom gift bag with wrapping paper following this tutorial. I then folded the top down, punched two holes at the top through all layers, threaded a fancy string through and tied a bow.

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Have a sweet week, everyone! 

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momo

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Momo means peach in Japanese. Perhaps this tawashi looks more like a pumpkin than a peach, but momo is a cuter name :)

I’m going to show you how to make one with tulle, using the pattern from Pierrot (link via Ravelry, with slight modifications explained below). Tulle makes for a scrubbier tawashi than acrylic or cotton yarn, I think.

A roll of this decorative tulle from Michaels makes 2 tawashi’s! It’s 6 inches wide by 20 yards. Here’s how we transform the roll of tulle into balls of yarn :D

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  1. Roll of Tulle.
  2. Pop off the plastic caps on both ends of the roll, then remove the inner paper tube.
  3. Using fabric scissors, cut roll in half through all layers (it would be a bit tough to cut through but just keep nudging forward)
  4. Roll half of the roll into a ball. Repeat with the other half. 

Now we have 2 balls of tulle yarn!

For the tawashi, I also used 5mm and 3.5mm crochet hooks, tapestry needle, and a small amount of green yarn.

I followed the pdf pattern from Pierrot (it’s charted, but very easy to understand), but with the following stitch counts: 

  1. Using 5mm hook, ch 16.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (15 sc).
  3. Starting at row 2, work in pattern for 18 rows, it’ll be close to the end of the ball of yarn. Fasten off, don’t cut off the yarn, and there should be a long tail enough to do all the sewing described below.

To finish:

  1. Sew the two short edges together with the long tail, don’t fasten off.
  2. Thread the tail through the stitches at one edge around, cinch.
  3. Then thread the yarn tail to the other edge, and thread the tail through the stitches around. Cinch, and tie off to secure.
  4. Using green yarn and 3.5mm hook, tie yarn to the middle of the tawashi through all layers, ch 15, sl st to where the yarn was attached in the middle of the tawashi, fasten off, weave in ends (I hid the ends inside the tawashi).

And there we have it, quick homemade gifts one can make a handful in a couple of evenings!

Happy autumn! 

 

friendship and hospitality

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I was thinking of making some practical Christmas gifts for family. I thought of making wash cloths. Because everyone can use more wash cloths. And I made a couple using this excellent pattern from Hakucho. It’s a lot of fun to knit using variegated yarn!

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And then I thought I could modify the stitch pattern a bit and make some hand-drying towels. I know that the specific gift recipients I’m thinking of are always inviting people over and hosting gatherings for family and friends. And the hexagon pattern lends itself easily to the making of a pineapple, and pineapple is a symbol of warm welcome, friendship and hospitality (read more here if you’re interested!). So the pineapple hand-drying towel pattern was created. And since it is a symbol of friendship, it must be shared ^_^

I used Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in “Lemon Swirl” and “Sage Green”. I wish I could find a brighter yellow and a lighter green, but there weren’t any other kind of worsted cotton at the Michaels I visited. But I think overall it still looks like a pineapple.

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This pattern uses both knitting and crochet. Crochet is only used in the top (green, hanging) part. It’s not complicated, just involves making chains, single crochet and slip stitch.

I used two 4.5 mm straight needles and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Also used tapestry needle for sewing and a 1-inch button.

Knit — pineapple body:

First, download the free Circle Cloth pattern from Hakucho. (I know it’s a bit annoying to go back and forth between two patterns, but the knitting pattern isn’t mine so I don’t want to reproduce it here — so please bear with me >_<)

With green, CO 14.

Row 1: p all stitches.

Row 2: kfb all stitches (28 st).

Rows 3–8: Attach yellow, work pattern rows 3–8 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Row 9: Switch to green, work pattern row 9 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Row 10: k2, *k1fb, k1*, repeat from * to * across until last 3 st, k3 (40 st).

Rows 11–12: Work pattern rows 11–12 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Rows 13–18: Switch to yellow, work pattern rows 3–8 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Rows 19–22: Switch to green, work pattern rows 9–12 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Rows 23–28: With yellow, work pattern rows 13–18 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Rows 29–32: With green, work pattern rows 19–22 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Now there should be 3 sections of yellow completed.

Repeat pattern rows 3–22 in Circle Cloth pattern 3 more times. Then repeat pattern rows 3–8 once more. There should be 10 sections of yellow altogether. Fasten off yellow.

Pineapple top row 1: With green, work pattern row 9 in Circle Cloth pattern.

Row 2: k1, k2tog to last st, k1.

Row 3: p1, p2tog to last st, p1. (11 st.)

Row 4: k all st.

Row 5: p all st.

BO all st, don’t fasten off. Insert crochet hook in last remaining loop.

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Crochet — pineapple top:

The pineapple top is crocheted in loops. We’ll first make 2 loops attached to the pineapple top, then make 3 longer loops going from the pineapple top and attached together at the top creating a buttonhole tap, and end with 2 loops attached to the pineapple top, like so…

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Loop 1: From where we left off in the knitting part, ch 25, sc in same st at beginning of ch. When crocheting into the knit part, be sure to insert hook through both loops in the BO stitches.

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Loop 2: ch 25, sc in next BO st.

Loop 3: sc in next BO st, ch 42, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, ch 35, sc in next BO st at pineapple top.

Loop 4: sc in next BO st, ch 35, sc in each sc in the 6-sc row that was made in loop 3, ch 1, turn (turning ch does not count as a st), sc in first sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 35, sc in next BO st.

Loop 5: sc in next BO st, ch 35, sc in next 2 sc at top of loop 4, 3 sc in next ch 3 sp, sc in last sc, ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sc, ch 35, sc in next BO st.

Loop 6: sc in next BO st, ch 25, sc in next BO st.

Loop 7: ch 25, sl st in same st at beginning of ch, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sew button to the knit part of the pineapple top. And we’re done! :D

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Hope you like the project and have fun if you do give it a try. Have a fabulous first week of October! :D