loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 5

Now that we’ve gotten the hang of making mitered square, you might get a bit bored of making solid colour squares. You can make striped ones! And use up smaller balls of scraps! Here’s what I do…

After casting on, purling one row, decreasing one stitch on either side of the centre peg, and moving each stitch over, introduce the new colour by making a slip knot with the new yarn and placing it on the peg with the first stitch of the row.

Knit over the old yarn (pink), then continue e-wrapping with the new yarn (blue). Purl one row with the new yarn. Then switch back to the pink yarn.

Lay the working yarn of the previous row on top of the new yarn before making the first e-wrap to carry the yarn with you as you go. (in this case we’re bringing back the pink yarn and about to make an e-wrap on the first peg, notice the blue yarn is on top of the pink so it gets wrapped into the stitch.)

When you have 5 stitches left after a purl row, cut the current yarn, and tie off.

Do the decrease around the centre peg and move the stitches over as usual, and complete the square.

Here’s the stripy square!

You can also make scrappy squares that use up every last bits of yarn. I knit till I have about 2 inches left, and tie on a new yarn very close to the peg (I learned this from watching videos of loom knitting plush toys by the Loom Muse — more on that in another post!)

In the photo below the new yarn is the grey one and the one that ran out is green.

The resulting scrappy square looks like this :)

Yes, lots of ends to weave in on these squares but I like the look of them :)

I hope you’ve enjoyed this series of how-to for making a mitered square blanket! Happy knitting!

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

 

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 4

Hello! We’re back with the last step in loom knitting the mitered square blanket, which is to join all the other squares in the blanket after the first row and after the first square of any row. This is how the majority of the squares will be joined!

As always, we orient the loom to the blanket (or in the case of this demonstration, a dish cloth). The square we joined in the last post is the blue square.

The loops marked with the blue dots on the blue square will go on the pegs parked with the blue dots, and the loops marked with the red dots on the yellow square will go on the pegs with the red dots. 

We would begin with placing the loops on the yellow square on the pegs, starting from the edge towards the centre, and starting the first peg that is right beside the side knob. We place the last loop on the yellow square on the peg before the marked centre peg, then place the first loop of the blue square on the marked peg, and the rest of the loops of the blue square onto the pegs until the second last peg of the loom — 23 stitches altogether. 

Here’s a closer look at the loops that are placed on the pegs. Note that the loops that are picked up are the horizontal strands in between purl bumps.

And here’s how it looks on the loom when both yellow and blue squares are attached, with the right side of the square touching the inside of the loom.

When you’re actually knitting with the blanket on your lap, it would be oriented like this. I would start putting on the loops from the black/grey/beige square, which is the square from the previous row, and then put on the loops from the purple/mixed colour square, which is the square made just before the current one.

Now we’re ready to knit the new square as we usually do. We start with adjusting a slip knot on the first peg (the one right beside the side knob), knit off the loop below, then e-wrap and knit off each stitch.

Instruction for the rest of the square is pasted below, but if you need more help there are photos in the first post.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. (Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.) 

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 stitches left. Purl the 3 stitches. Place the stitch on the left and stitch on the right onto the middle peg, e-wrap, then knit off all 3 bottom loops. Fasten off.

Here’s how my mitered square dish cloth looks like! :D I crocheted a border and loop at the top with a 6.5mm hook, basically 1 single crochet in each stitch around, and 3 sc in each corner.

Next time we’ll have our last post of the series on how to make striped squares, or essentially how I change colours to use up every last bit of those scraps.

You might ask, isn’t there a million ends to weave in at the end? Yes, so I don’t wait till the end. Usually I weave in the ends after making one or two squares. Leaving ALL the ends to weave in after 10x15 squares would drive me mad :S (I plan on making the blanket 10 squares wide and 15 squares tall)

Till next time, happy knitting! 

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 3

Hello friends! We’re back again with our mitered square blanket! Today we’re going to join the first square on the second row, and the method for joining is the same for the first square in every row. 

Let’s first orient ourselves. For the first square in every row, we will always be joining under the first square in the previous row. In our case, it’s the purple square (in the last post we joined the yellow square). 

We will place the loops on the bottom edge of the purple square (as indicated by the red dots) onto the pegs on the loom that are marked by the red dot, starting at the first peg (the one that’s beside the side knob) and ending at the peg marked with a stitch marker, or the one just before it. So you will put on 11 or 12 loops, it doesn’t make a difference.

To place the loops on the square onto the pegs, find the horizontal strands between the purl bumps, and place the strands onto the pegs.

When actually joining/knitting the square, you would position it like this, with the right side of the square you’re joining to facing the inside of the loop, and picking up the loops on the side this way. (And yes that was a wonderful day knitting in the sun sitting on the grass in a park! :D)

Once the loops are placed onto the peg, make a slip knot with the new yarn (in this demonstration it’s the blue yarn), place it on the first peg, and knit over with the loop on the peg.

E-wrap the next peg, then knit over. Repeat until there are no loops on the next pegs. Then, e-wrap the next loop twice and knit off the bottom loop (in this demonstration it is the marked peg, but it can also be the peg after the marked peg if you have placed a loop from the previous square on the marked peg, it doesn’t really make a difference), thereby casting on a stitch.

Continue casting on until the second last peg on the loom — that will be the last stitch, 23 stitches altogether.

You’re now ready to continue making the square as usual. Instructions are pasted below for convenience’s sake but if you need more help there are photos in the first post.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. (Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.) 

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 stitches left. Purl the 3 stitches. Place the stitch on the left and stitch on the right onto the middle peg, e-wrap, then knit off all 3 bottom loops. Fasten off.

Now we have the first square of the row joined! Next time we’ll join the next square, which is how we make the majority of the squares in the blanket.

Be sure to leave a comment on the post if you have any question! You can send me an email too but other readers may also find your questions helpful so don’t be shy :)

Happy weekend!

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket – part 2

Welcome back to the loom-knit-along mitered square blanket project! :D

In this post we knit a second square while joining it to the previous one. Every square on the very first row of the blanket will be made this way. You can make the row as long as you want. My blanket is 10 squares wide, and it’s 39″. 

First, let’s orient ourselves. We will put the loops on one side of the first square onto 12 pegs of the loom, as illustrated in the picture below. The red-dotted stitches will go on the red-dotted pegs.

With the right side of the square facing the inside of the loom, start by putting the first stitch at the top of the square onto the marked peg. For the following stitches, use the loom pick to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn between the purl bumps and place it onto the peg, like so…

Continue putting a loop on each peg until you reach the other corner of the square and each of the 12 pegs have a loop on it. It will look like this.

Then, go to the first peg of the loom, and cast on the 11 pegs that don’t have loops on them with a new colour for your new square (my second square is yellow).

When you get to the first peg with a loop of the previous square on it (the marked peg), e-wrap, then knit off the loop from the previous square.

Continue until the end of row. And that’s it! You’ve cast on a conjoining square! :D

Knit the rest of the square the same way as the first square. For convenience, I’ll paste the pattern below but there are photos in the blog post that might help if you’re having trouble.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. (Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.) 

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 stitches left. Purl the 3 stitches. Place the stitch on the left and stitch on the right onto the middle peg, e-wrap, then knit off all 3 bottom loops. Fasten off.

Now we have two squares joined together! Next time we’ll join a square to the row below. Here’s a first look at how we’ll do that.

In the meanwhile, join as many square as you’d like for the first row, by placing the loops from the previous square on the loom (i.e. if I were to join a third square to the first row, I’d place loops from the yellow square on the loom). Then come back and join us for the second row!

Happy knitting! :D Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions!

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

loom-knit-along: join-as-you-go mitered square blanket — part 1

I’ve been looking for a good yarn scrap project because I love the patchwork look and my yarn collection is growing at an uncontrollable rate.

I came across a mitered square baby jacket one day so I followed the link to the free pattern, but it involves sewing all the squares together… doable maybe for a baby jacket but I wasn’t into sewing hundreds of squares together to make up a blanket. So I tried looking for visual tutorials for a join-as-you-go version but didn’t come across any. After making the Ten-Stitch Blanket I was pretty sure it’s possible to join as you go, so I tinkered around a bit and figured out a system!

Interested in knitting along? :D I figure if we start now, and knit one or two squares a day, we’ll have a blanket by Christmas to give away as gift! (or keep for yourself!) You can also use the idea of temperature blanket, mood blanket, or sky blanket. They’re really great ideas to be mindful of our surroundings or our feelings so we don’t take them for granted or be unaware of how things affect us. 

Each square doesn’t take very long to make, only 23 stitches at its widest part, and it keeps decreasing as you go so it feels like it’s knitting up even faster. There WILL be a million ends to weave in, but I weave them in as I complete each square so I don’t leave them all till the end.

So! In this post we’ll show you the materials I used, and how I made the first square. In the next few posts I will share:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make stripes!

First, we need:

24-peg loom (I got mine from this kit, it’s the smallest in the kit)

Loom pick

Bulky weight yarn or two strands of worsted held together

Stitch marker

Tea! (optional but highly recommended)

(For the demonstration I’m going to make a hand towel with some worsted weight cotton, and for clarity purpose, I’m just going to use a single strand. But for the blanket, if you’re using worsted weight, it’s best to use 2 strands held together for the gauge of this loom.)

Before knitting we need to mark the middle stitch. Counting from the first peg, which is the first peg to the right of the side knob, put the stitch marker on the 12th peg on the loom, like so…

Then we’re ready to cast on!

Cast on row: Make a slip knot with the yarn, adjust it to the first peg. E wrap (wrap the working yarn around the peg from right to left) the first peg and knit off. Cast on the next 22 pegs by e-wrapping each peg twice and knit the bottom loop over the top loop. Beware not to cast on too tightly.

Row 1: Purl (here’s a video of purling) to the marked peg, e-wrap knit the marked peg, purl to end. (Note in the picture that the last peg of the loom is empty — we only use 23 pegs of the loom.) Beware not to make the stitches too tight.

Row 2: Move the loop on the peg to the left of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the marked peg onto the marked peg. Now the marked peg has 3 loops on it. 

(Always move the loop on the left first, then the one on the right, so it looks consistent.)

Move the loop on the peg to the left of the now empty peg onto the empty peg. Keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the right until you reach the beginning of the row.

E-wrap and knit off each peg until you reach the marked peg. E-wrap the marked peg, knit off all three bottom loops on the peg (I prefer knitting them off one at a time, it’s easier).

You will now have an empty peg to the right of the marked peg. Move the loop on the peg to the right of the empty peg onto the empty peg, e-wrap the peg and knit off. Then keep moving each loop to the empty peg to the left and e-wrap and knit off until you reach the end of row. I find it easier to do this with the loom sitting flat on a surface.

And that’s it! Just repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 3 pegs left with loops on them. (moving the stitches is kind of tedious, apparently there are looms with moving inserts to help with this…? But I don’t have one of those looms, so this is why we only make one or two squares a day! It’s not so bad.)

Purl the last 3 loops, then move the loops to the left and right of the marked peg to the marked peg. E-wrap and knit off the bottom 3 loops. Take the last loop off the peg, cut yarn, and tie off by bringing the yarn tail around the loop to the front, then through the loop from back to front, as pictured.

And here we have our first square! Now by always e-wrap knitting the marked/middle peg, you’ll get a raised line of knit stitches or braid running diagonally through the square. For my blanket I just purl all the pegs on the purl rows, because I can’t trust my attention to always knit that one stitch on purl row and not make mistakes. But it’s up to you!

Here’s a sneak peek of how we will join the next square, so you can see the finished square. (and see? I already make a mistake by purling the marked stitch on a purl row!)

Happy knitting! I’ll be back in a few days with the next episode of join-as-you-go mitered square blanket! :D

 

Posts in this series:

How to make the first square

How to join the subsequent squares in the first row

How to join the first square in every row

How to join all the other squares

How to make striped squares

 

 

cumulus cowl

I had a vision of this cowl when I saw the yarn, which was Loops & Threads Barcelona in Arctic, and I bought it because it was on massive sale. It is a very fluffy yarn and with the colours it reminds me of clouds. I wanted to create a subtle cable texture where the cables may not be super noticeable at first glance, and the crossing of the stitches are a bit hidden, like clouds, which are easily taken for granted unless we take time to stop and notice their forms and shapes, and twists and turns.

I was happy with the way it came out so I thought I’d share what I did. The fabric is doubled so it’s extra warm and squishy. It would work nicely with any bulky yarn with long colour transitions of grey and white. (or other colours you like!)

 

It is a loom knitting pattern, and if you’re new to it now worries! I include links to video tutorials for different techniques. Loom knitting itself is quite easy, so a beginner would be able to follow this pattern.

Material:

Half a skein of Loops & Threads Barcelona — about 150 yards.

41 peg Knit Quick round loom and loom knitting hook

4 mm crochet hook (for weaving in ends)

Pattern:

Mark the pegs with elastic bands or stitch markers. Mark the first two pegs, *skip two pegs, mark the next two*, repeat from * to * around until there are 3 pegs left.

E-wrap cast on all the pegs around the loom.

E-wrap every round until piece is 2″ in length.

Cable round: *Take off and hold the loops from the first two marked pegs. Place the loop from first peg on the second peg, then place the loop from the second peg on the first peg, then e-wrap the two stitches* (cable stitch complete). E-wrap the next two stitches as usual. Repeat from * to * over the next two stitches on marked pegs to work cable stitch. Continue around working cable stitch over the stitches on marked pegs, and working regular e-wraps over unmarked pegs. (Here’s a video for the cable stitch, except that in the video u-wraps and purl stitches are used, whereas in this pattern only e-wraps are used)

E-wrap 3 rounds.

Repeat the last 4 rounds until piece is 16″ in length.

E-wrap until the piece is 18″ in length, don’t fasten off.

Seaming:

Place the cast on loops back on the pegs, careful in matching the loops to the pegs (i.e. the first loop of the round in the first peg, second loop on the second peg, and so on). Bind off loosely, treating the bottom two loops as one. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Move the seam towards the middle of the cowl, and enjoy the fluffiness!

Happy weekend, friends! :D

 

the sharing hat

This hat was made and the pattern written while Mike and I participated at the Warming Toronto event at the end of February, which was an event in which people gather together and make hats and scarves for shelters and outreach programs in the city. So I’m sharing this pattern with these intentions:

1) The hat is quick to make. I had to restart several times while I was figuring out a pattern, and I was also eating a very delicious plate of fish and chips (AWAY from the yarn — this setup was only for Instagram!), but I made the hat from start to finish within 4 hours, so making it from the pattern should take much less time!

2) Since it’s such a quick make, I’m hoping that this will encourage you to make one for yourself and make another to pass it on to someone who can really use a thick and warm hat!

Behold the cozy yarn pile — by the time I finished the hat we’ve collected 114 finished items! :D

The event took place at a pub, which has an upstairs library with couches and fireplace, perfect for yarn-crafting and provided backgrounds for my photo shoot that are much more interesting than what I usually have :D

The hat is worked sideways then seamed together. It has rows of braided puff stitch and texture created by crocheting into the 3rd loop on the back of a half-double crochet stitch. If you haven’t tried neither of those stitches, don’t worry, I took plenty of process photos to show how it’s done :)

The hat measures about 9″ tall (brim folded) and 20″ around. 

Material:

Two skeins of Bernat Softee Chunky, or other super bulky weight yarn (the hat uses about 150 yards, so 3 skeins would make 2 hats! :D)

Contrasting colour yarn for pom pom.

9 mm hook, and a smaller hook for weaving in ends.

Yarn needle.

Pattern:

*Note: beginning ch does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern.

Row 1 (RS): ch 26, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end. (24 hdc’s)

Row 2 (WS): ch 1, hdc in back loop only (BLO) in the first 6 hdc’s, then hdc in the 3rd loop in each of the remainder of the hdc’s, like so…

You would insert the hook into the strands of yarn in the direction of the arrows. This creates a nice raised braid on the right side :)

Row 3: (puff braid row) ch 3, skip first 2 hdc, dc in next hdc…

[yo and pull up a loop] three times in the first hdc of the row, then pull through all loops on hook (puff stitch made)…

*skip next hdc, dc in next hdc, puff st in the same hdc as last dc made* rep from * to * till there are 7 hdc’s left in row, dc BLO in each hdc to end.

Row 4: (puff stitch row) ch 1, dc BLO in next 7 dc, sk next st, dc in next dc (between 2 puff st’s)…

puff st in the st before the skipped st…

*skip next st, dc in next st, puff st in st before skipped st* rep from * to * till end of row. When arriving at the end of row, work last dc in the very last st…

Then end with a puff st.

Row 5: ch 1, make sure the first hdc is made in the very first st…

Then hdc in next 17 st’s, hdc BLO in last 6 st’s.

Row 6: ch 1, hdc BLO in first 6 hdc’s, hdc in the 3rd loop in the remaining 18 hdc’s.

Row 7: ch 1, hdc in first 18 hdc’s, hdc BLO in remaining 6 hdc’s.

Repeat rows 2–7 three more times, except in the last repeat, omit row 7 and end with row 6.

Decrease row at top: ch 1, 2 dc tog evenly across the top of the hat.

Cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. Thread yarn tail in yarn needle, weave yarn tail through the stitches at the top of hat, cinch close and tie to secure. Turn hat inside out, sew seam. Make and attach pom pom. Fold up the brim for extra warmth!

I hope you enjoy making the hat! Leave a comment if you have any questions or need clarifications. And if you’re looking for places to send your yarn-craft items… 

Here’s a list by the Toronto Knitters Guild of places that accept yarn-crafted goodness in Toronto.

Warm Hands Network collects and sends handmade items nationally and internationally, especially to northern locations.

For friends in the USA, the lists on Mental Floss and Red Heart may be good places to start :)

With glowing heart and busy hands — happy yarn-crafting!

 

 

may the porg be with you

I made a tiny porg!

Fan opinions about them seem to polarize. I happen to love them like I love all fuzzy round-shaped creatures. Its shape is so amigurumi-ready, and it reminded me of my penguin tots. I couldn’t help but had to make one. 

If you’ve made the penguin tots before, the porg is not different structurally but a bit more complicated with the colour changes.

It’s very carry-able and rides well in pocket, so it can always be with you :)

The upturned mouth of the actual porg makes my tiny version look sad, so I opted for a regular mouth instead. 

Here it is contemplating life, or deciding what to eat for lunch, by the jade plant.

To make your own tiny porg, you’ll need:

Small amount of mustard, white, brown and orange yarn in worsted weight

3.5 mm hook 

2.5 mm hook (for feet and weaving in ends)

2 black safety eyes (3mm), or round black beads

Black thread and sewing needle

Yarn needle

Yarn ends (for stuffing), or polyester stuffing

Pattern:

Body:

Note: beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch throughout.

Round 1: With brown, ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, sc in the remaining loop of the next ch (the ch that has only 1 sc in it), sc in the next ch (the ch with the beginning 2 sc in it), sl st in first sc of round.

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next sc (the sc with the beginning 2 sc in it), sl st in first sc of round.

In the next round we begin to incorporate other colours. Here’s a tutorial on how to change colours seamlessly, in case it’s helpful.

Round 3: ch 1, in back loop only, sc in next 7 sc. When completing the 7th sc, attach and change to white. Carrying the brown yarn (i.e. wrap it in your stitch) as you crochet with white, sc in the next 4 sc. When completing the 4th sc, change back to brown, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc.

Round 4: With brown, ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, change to white, carrying the brown as you go, sc in next 4 sc, change to brown, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc.

Round 5: Repeat round 4.

Round 6: With brown, ch 1, sc in next 6 sc. Change to yellow and carrying brown as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to white and carry the brown and yellow as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to yellow and carry the brown as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to brown, sl st in first sc.

Round 7: Repeat around 6.

After round 7, install safety eyes (or sew on beads for eyes) in between the 2 yellow stitches between rounds 6 and 7. Sew on mouth. Stuff with yarn ends or stuffing.

Round 8: With brown, ch 1, 2 sc tog three times, change to yellow and fasten off brown, 2 sc tog with yellow, change to white and carry the yellow as you go, 2 sc tog with white, change to yellow and fasten off white, 2 sc tog with yellow, sl st in first sc of round, fasten off, leave a long tail. Weave the tail in the remaining stitches around and cinch the opening close, secure and fasten off, weave in ends.

Wings (make 2): With brown, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (forming a point), sc in ch with the 5 sc in it, sl st in first sc of round, leave a tail for sewing, fasten off. (I only leave a tail for sewing on one wing, not both.

Sew on wings: Position the wing with the yarn tail for sewing on the side of the body, thread the yarn needle in the yarn tail, insert needle where you want the first wing, pull the needle through the body so the needle comes out on the other side where you want the other wing to be. Thread the other wing through the needle, and sew back and forth through the body to secure both wings at the same time. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Feet:

Feet are made linked together with a few ch in between.

With orange, *ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in very first ch made, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in very first ch made*, ch 2 (link between feet), then repeat from * to * once more. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Position feet under body and sew on with yarn tail, fasten off and weave in ends.

The porg is ready for adventures!

Tiny porg wishes everyone an awesome week!

 

happy scrappy sweater

Start the new year right! Use up those scrap yarn to make room for new ones! :D

And get some knitting looms! So you can make this happy scrappy loom-knitting sweater! :D

*Disclaimer: I have not received compensations for any knitting loom manufacturers* (but maybe I should…)

I just… love the simplicity, the rustic fisherman look, the double thick, super warm fabric.

So! If you have a knitting loom, or if you’d like to get one and try your hands on loom knitting, here’s how this raglan sweater was made. 

(Haven’t tried loom knitting much but want to tackle a sweater project? No fear! I’ll have video tutorials throughout to show you different stitches. I did start with making hats and headbands first but the sweater really isn’t much harder.)

I used:

A 41-peg round loom (the largest in the set). I got mine in a set by Loops & Threads at Michaels (for medium to bulky yarn). It was about $20 and I had a 55% off coupon so it ended up being quite affordable.

Worsted weight yarn. I knitted with 2 strands of yarn held together throughout. I had a large ball of over 1000 yards of forest green (I can’t remember what brand and lost the label) that I used throughout, then just added different colours of scrap yarn as I went. 

6 mm crochet hook for casting on. Smaller hook for weaving in ends.

Yarn needle (that came with the loom set).

Sizing:

The size I made was 33″ around. I would have liked it larger. Given that I’m on the small scale of humans, I’m going to write the pattern for 37″ so it might work for more people. 37″ is the largest size the loom can make, for this pattern. Below are the approximate measurements, with 2 stitches = 1″ and 3 rows = 1″. The actual measurements for your sweater may vary depending on the kind of yarn you use.

Pattern:

Notes: 

Knit with 2 strands of yarn held together throughout. I used one colour consistently and just added different colours of scrap yarn. To change colour, I simply cut the working yarn and tie on a different colour. Very high-tech ;)

The pattern consists of 4 pieces: front, back, 2 sleeves. They’re sewn together in the 4 diagonal seams from under arm to collar, then sleeves are sewn together under the arm, and the sides are sewn together. 

Wherever “knit” or “k” is indicated in the pattern, it means the e-wrap stitch.

Front/Back (make 2):

Cast on all the pegs around the loom using this chain cast on method with a crochet hook, but don’t join in the round. I tend to cast on quite tightly so that the edges are as neat as possible (41 sts.)

Work k1 p1 rib for 6 rows. (video tutorial for k1 p1 rib here)

Continue knitting using the e-wrap stitch (e-wrap video here) until piece reach 13″.  

Now we begin decreasing towards the collar (yoke).

Yoke row 1: In the next row, decrease 1 by moving the loop on the last peg to the one next to it, e-wrap and knit off the 2 bottom loops on peg. Continue knitting until 2 stitches remain. Move the loop on the last peg to the second last peg, e-wrap and knit off the 2 bottom loops on peg. Decrease done! Simple, right? (Here’s a decrease video to summarize the action)

Yoke rows 2–3: Knit 2 rows even.

Repeat yoke rows 1–3 eight more times, then work yoke row 1 (decrease row) once more. 28 rows in yoke altogether, 21 stitches remain.

Work k1 p1 rib for 5 rows. 

Bind off (bind off video here).

Sleeves (make 2):

Chain cast on (same as front/back) 19 sts. 

Work k1 p1 rib for 5 rows.

Sleeve row 1–7: Knit 7 rows even.

Sleeve row 8 (increase): knit 2, make 1 (m1), knit until 2 stitches remain, m1, knit 2. (make 1 video here — the person in the video uses a different knit stitch method but you can continue using the e-wrap for this)

Repeat sleeve rows 1–8 seven more times — 64 rows altogether, increased to 35 sts.

Now we decrease for shoulder.

Shoulder row 1: knit 1 row even.

Shoulder row 2: decrease 1, knit till 2 stitches remain, decrease (see yoke row 1 above).

Repeat shoulder rows 1–2 thirteen more times, 28 rows altogether in shoulder, 7 stitches remain.

Work k1 p1 rib for 5 rows. Bind off.

Assembly:

With wrong side facing, and using one strand of yarn only (to reduce bulk), sew raglan seams together connecting sleeve pieces to front and back pieces. Sew sleeve together under the arm and continue sewing together the sides. Repeat with other sleeve/side.

Voilà!

And! I got this incredible t-rex wooden sculpture from a dear friend :D Isn’t it the most awesome thing?

If you do give it a try do drop me a line! Cheers to a fantastic roaring year! 

  

 

tutorials, tutorials, tutorials

Remember sakura mochi? :D

He’s the first ever posted pattern on this blog!! Feels like ages ago. It is ages ago. It was in March 2010 that I started this blog, and today it is home to over 40 tiny plush patterns, almost 20 wearable patterns, and over 30 other craft tutorials.

When I came up with the numbers I was quite blown away myself! Actually I was more blown away by the fact that I never counted or took stock of what has been created on this blog until now. Really because I have two days off, with nothing planned, but only had to use up the vacation hours that would otherwise be lost by the end of the year. 

So I did a tutorial overhaul! :D

I realized that even when I was scrolling through my own tutorials it was tedious to have to scroll forever back and forth to find what I need. So I categorized them! 

If you go to the Tutorials page now, you’ll see a list of categories, from tiny plush to non-yarn crafts! 

I don’t know how to do this just yet but in the future I hope to layout the tutorials in a grid rather than a list, like I see on other nice modern looking blogs :) But I hope at least the categories make things easier to find.

In the beginning this blog was more for me as a way to feel motivated to create, and record patterns and how-to’s that I come up with so I can go back to them later if I need to remake something. I really only expected about a dozen people reading it, mostly my family and friends. It’s never intended to make profit. I welcome yarn and related products and promote yarn-related businesses by writing review posts, but I always turn down offers for ads. I have not yet written a pattern for sale. I’m lazy about the blog’s appearance (hence the long overdue tutorial overhaul and the early 2000’s look, kind of like my everyday appearance :S). But it’s a comfortable place that I always go back to, a virtual home, updating and writing posts even when I’m swamped, even when I don’t feel like it, even when I thought it’s not amounting to anything, even when WordPress tells me that my readership is dwindling. Somehow, I want to keep it alive.

Since then I’ve met many great people through this blog, sharing such kind comments and crafting along, letting me know that they’re trying out my patterns, exchanging notes so we can figure out modifications together, communicating in different languages across the continents (me using Google Translate), actually exchanging snail mail and hoping to one day meet in person… I’m so grateful for the connections and for the kindness you’ve shown me and genuine mudpie. Perhaps it is not really the blog that I want to keep alive, but the connections and creativity that sustain this blog.

So cheers to you! Let’s craft forward! :D