sneak peeks!

It’s been quiet on the blog for a while, and that’s because I’ve been busy working on a multi-pattern project!

I’m going to put out an e-book!

Yes!

I thought I’ve been writing up patterns for a while, perhaps it’s time to put together something more “official”, with different sizing options, etc.

One of the projects does involve the above black cat, and to join in the fun you can download the peeking cat picture above as a desktop wallpaper! Get the full size picture here and then right-click it to set it as a background, so you too can have those glowing eyes peering at you every time you turn on your computer ;)

Here are a few sneak peeks of some of the patterns in the book! I’m still working on one other, hoping to put this out sometimes in July :) 

Yes, this top can be worn with either side in front — it’s like two tops in one! :D

And this one definitely needs a better photo shoot than stripes-on-stripes — but I was feeling happy that the drape worked out as the way I imagined.

So, stay tuned! :D And hope everyone’s enjoying some sun this week!

 

the sharing hat

This hat was made and the pattern written while Mike and I participated at the Warming Toronto event at the end of February, which was an event in which people gather together and make hats and scarves for shelters and outreach programs in the city. So I’m sharing this pattern with these intentions:

1) The hat is quick to make. I had to restart several times while I was figuring out a pattern, and I was also eating a very delicious plate of fish and chips (AWAY from the yarn — this setup was only for Instagram!), but I made the hat from start to finish within 4 hours, so making it from the pattern should take much less time!

2) Since it’s such a quick make, I’m hoping that this will encourage you to make one for yourself and make another to pass it on to someone who can really use a thick and warm hat!

Behold the cozy yarn pile — by the time I finished the hat we’ve collected 114 finished items! :D

The event took place at a pub, which has an upstairs library with couches and fireplace, perfect for yarn-crafting and provided backgrounds for my photo shoot that are much more interesting than what I usually have :D

The hat is worked sideways then seamed together. It has rows of braided puff stitch and texture created by crocheting into the 3rd loop on the back of a half-double crochet stitch. If you haven’t tried neither of those stitches, don’t worry, I took plenty of process photos to show how it’s done :)

The hat measures about 9″ tall (brim folded) and 20″ around. 

Material:

Two skeins of Bernat Softee Chunky, or other super bulky weight yarn (the hat uses about 150 yards, so 3 skeins would make 2 hats! :D)

Contrasting colour yarn for pom pom.

9 mm hook, and a smaller hook for weaving in ends.

Yarn needle.

Pattern:

*Note: beginning ch does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern.

Row 1 (RS): ch 26, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end. (24 hdc’s)

Row 2 (WS): ch 1, hdc in back loop only (BLO) in the first 6 hdc’s, then hdc in the 3rd loop in each of the remainder of the hdc’s, like so…

You would insert the hook into the strands of yarn in the direction of the arrows. This creates a nice raised braid on the right side :)

Row 3: (puff braid row) ch 3, skip first 2 hdc, dc in next hdc…

[yo and pull up a loop] three times in the first hdc of the row, then pull through all loops on hook (puff stitch made)…

*skip next hdc, dc in next hdc, puff st in the same hdc as last dc made* rep from * to * till there are 7 hdc’s left in row, dc BLO in each hdc to end.

Row 4: (puff stitch row) ch 1, dc BLO in next 7 dc, sk next st, dc in next dc (between 2 puff st’s)…

puff st in the st before the skipped st…

*skip next st, dc in next st, puff st in st before skipped st* rep from * to * till end of row. When arriving at the end of row, work last dc in the very last st…

Then end with a puff st.

Row 5: ch 1, make sure the first hdc is made in the very first st…

Then hdc in next 17 st’s, hdc BLO in last 6 st’s.

Row 6: ch 1, hdc BLO in first 6 hdc’s, hdc in the 3rd loop in the remaining 18 hdc’s.

Row 7: ch 1, hdc in first 18 hdc’s, hdc BLO in remaining 6 hdc’s.

Repeat rows 2–7 three more times, except in the last repeat, omit row 7 and end with row 6.

Decrease row at top: ch 1, 2 dc tog evenly across the top of the hat.

Cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. Thread yarn tail in yarn needle, weave yarn tail through the stitches at the top of hat, cinch close and tie to secure. Turn hat inside out, sew seam. Make and attach pom pom. Fold up the brim for extra warmth!

I hope you enjoy making the hat! Leave a comment if you have any questions or need clarifications. And if you’re looking for places to send your yarn-craft items… 

Here’s a list by the Toronto Knitters Guild of places that accept yarn-crafted goodness in Toronto.

Warm Hands Network collects and sends handmade items nationally and internationally, especially to northern locations.

For friends in the USA, the lists on Mental Floss and Red Heart may be good places to start :)

With glowing heart and busy hands — happy yarn-crafting!

 

 

may the porg be with you

I made a tiny porg!

Fan opinions about them seem to polarize. I happen to love them like I love all fuzzy round-shaped creatures. Its shape is so amigurumi-ready, and it reminded me of my penguin tots. I couldn’t help but had to make one. 

If you’ve made the penguin tots before, the porg is not different structurally but a bit more complicated with the colour changes.

It’s very carry-able and rides well in pocket, so it can always be with you :)

The upturned mouth of the actual porg makes my tiny version look sad, so I opted for a regular mouth instead. 

Here it is contemplating life, or deciding what to eat for lunch, by the jade plant.

To make your own tiny porg, you’ll need:

Small amount of mustard, white, brown and orange yarn in worsted weight

3.5 mm hook 

2.5 mm hook (for feet and weaving in ends)

2 black safety eyes (3mm), or round black beads

Black thread and sewing needle

Yarn needle

Yarn ends (for stuffing), or polyester stuffing

Pattern:

Body:

Note: beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch throughout.

Round 1: With brown, ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, sc in the remaining loop of the next ch (the ch that has only 1 sc in it), sc in the next ch (the ch with the beginning 2 sc in it), sl st in first sc of round.

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next sc (the sc with the beginning 2 sc in it), sl st in first sc of round.

In the next round we begin to incorporate other colours. Here’s a tutorial on how to change colours seamlessly, in case it’s helpful.

Round 3: ch 1, in back loop only, sc in next 7 sc. When completing the 7th sc, attach and change to white. Carrying the brown yarn (i.e. wrap it in your stitch) as you crochet with white, sc in the next 4 sc. When completing the 4th sc, change back to brown, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc.

Round 4: With brown, ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, change to white, carrying the brown as you go, sc in next 4 sc, change to brown, sc in last sc, sl st in first sc.

Round 5: Repeat round 4.

Round 6: With brown, ch 1, sc in next 6 sc. Change to yellow and carrying brown as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to white and carry the brown and yellow as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to yellow and carry the brown as you go, sc in next 2 sc, change to brown, sl st in first sc.

Round 7: Repeat around 6.

After round 7, install safety eyes (or sew on beads for eyes) in between the 2 yellow stitches between rounds 6 and 7. Sew on mouth. Stuff with yarn ends or stuffing.

Round 8: With brown, ch 1, 2 sc tog three times, change to yellow and fasten off brown, 2 sc tog with yellow, change to white and carry the yellow as you go, 2 sc tog with white, change to yellow and fasten off white, 2 sc tog with yellow, sl st in first sc of round, fasten off, leave a long tail. Weave the tail in the remaining stitches around and cinch the opening close, secure and fasten off, weave in ends.

Wings (make 2): With brown, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (forming a point), sc in ch with the 5 sc in it, sl st in first sc of round, leave a tail for sewing, fasten off. (I only leave a tail for sewing on one wing, not both.

Sew on wings: Position the wing with the yarn tail for sewing on the side of the body, thread the yarn needle in the yarn tail, insert needle where you want the first wing, pull the needle through the body so the needle comes out on the other side where you want the other wing to be. Thread the other wing through the needle, and sew back and forth through the body to secure both wings at the same time. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Feet:

Feet are made linked together with a few ch in between.

With orange, *ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in very first ch made, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in very first ch made*, ch 2 (link between feet), then repeat from * to * once more. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Position feet under body and sew on with yarn tail, fasten off and weave in ends.

The porg is ready for adventures!

Tiny porg wishes everyone an awesome week!

 

holiday makes

Tis the time of year for the holiday crafting post, after all the gifts are gifted :D But I always lose track of what I made… here are some highlights!

The plant above is for a dear friend who said she can’t keep plants alive. But wait for it…

It’s a hidden Oddish!! Yes, she is also a big Pokemon fan :D

Here’s Oddish chilling on the couch.

I’m really happy with how Oddish turned out. There are a few good Oddish patterns out there but I ended up making it up as I crocheted because of the size of the plant pot. I also got a pair of reddish brown safety eyes as part of a free gift one time from a crochet magazine subscription :D They worked perfectly on Oddish.

And then there’s this cozy pair of crochet mittens, for a friend who recently relocated to colder climates. But wait…

It has finger openings for texting and taking pictures! :D I made them from this lovely pattern.

This one took me quite a while…

But well worth the time! Look how happy my dad is! :D And it fits perfectly! Always tricky making garments for my parents, never know if it’s going to fit and I can’t get Mike to test try it because he’s much taller… but it worked out this time :D The cable pattern is actually taken from this sweater pattern

This is my mom doing a dance with the crochet shawl, probably to the music on TV (my sister sent me the photo :D).

I thought it would be good for when she studies and writes in her office at home, which she spends quite a bit of time doing. It’s modified from this gorgeous pattern, because I was using a much heavier yarn. I skipped over quite a bit of the granny stitch sections. It’s a fun pattern to make with variegated yarn with long colour changes.

This is the warmest neckwarmer I’ve never made, probably Lapland-ready! :D Loom knitted (on a 41-peg round loom) a very long tube (about 20″) with two strands of worsted weight yarn held together, then the ends of tube are sewn together to make a double-thick tube! I took a photo before wrapping it for my mother-in-law :)

And now, things others made that I can’t make…

Isn’t it magnificent? :D Very grateful heart and stomach.

And for a year of more making…

Mike got me a long loom, a stitch counter, and the perfect yarn-crafting snack! :D :D :D

Here’s to a year of new ideas and more crafting!

 

make a bath otter!

When we went to Vancouver a couple of months ago one of the most memorable things was seeing the adorable sea otters.

*heart eyes x1000*

So when the nice folks at Yarn Canada sent me some Red Heart Scrubby Cotton to try out and write a blog post about (they even sent candy and a nice note, aren’t they awesome?), I knew exactly what to make :)

A bath otter, floating on its back, holding your soap! XD

Actually, our test shows that the otter sinks after the holding the soap for a while… but still, it’s fun to see it floating on its back.

It makes a great bath toy, and a soap saver. If you have a tiny bit of soap left just stick it in it’s back pocket and scrub away :D

This cotton yarn is super absorbent and softer than regular polyester scrubby yarn, so it makes a great wash cloth. 

 

One skein of scrubby makes 2 otters with plenty leftover for a knit wash cloth, which is quite economical for holiday gift-making. 

If you make it with regular wool or acrylic, the pattern would also make a cute hand puppet! :D

I used:

One skein each of Red Heart Scrubby Cotton in tan and loofa

A bit of brown acrylic yarn for embroidering facial features

5.5 mm hook

Tapestry needle

Note:

The otter is worked from top down in the round in the top part, then worked back and forth in the lower part and seamed at the sides in order to create an opening in the back. Then arms and legs are crocheted separately and sewn on. Ears are crocheted directly onto the head. The texture of the yarn makes it a bit challenging to see the stitches, and it is sometimes a bit difficult to undo stitches, but it’s great for blending in yarn ends and sewn seams. This pattern is written with this in mind and the structure is made as simple as possible. 

This pattern requires knowing how to do colour change in mid row. If you’re not familiar, please check out this handy tutorial by Moogly :) 

Pattern:

Head & upper body:

Round 1: with tan, 10 sc in magic ring, don’t join in the round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc (20 sc).

Round 3: [1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around (30 sc).

Round 4: 1 sc in each sc around.

Repeat round 4 until piece is 3.5″ tall.

Mid-section area:

6 sc, attach loofa (white), 3 sc in white, switch back to tan.

sc in each sc around using tan, until the sc before the first white stitch in the row below, switch to white, sc in the next 5 sc using white, wrap the white strand and the working tan yarn in the stitches as you go, like so…

Switch back to tan and 1 sc in each sc using tan, until the stitch before the first white stitch in the row below, switch to white, sc in next 7 sc using white, switch back to tan.

Continue crocheting in the round, using tan in tan stitches and white in white stitches until there are 4 more rows with white stitches.

Then, sc in each sc around using tan until the first white stitch in the row below, sc with tan in first white stitch, switch to white, sc with white in next 5 sc, switch back to tan.

sc in each sc around around using tan until first white stitch in the row below, sc with tan in the first white stitch, switch to white, sc with white in the next 3 sc, switch back to tan, fasten off white. sc in next 6 sc using tan, turn, leave remaining stitches unworked.

Lower body:

Lower body is worked back and forth in rows over 15 stitches.

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next 15 sc, turn.

Rows 2–8: repeat row 1, leave a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

With right side facing, fold lower body piece up in half, sew side seams together.

Turn lower body piece right side out. At the back opening, sew together the top and bottom stitches closest to the seam on each side, like the picture below. To sew the other stitches closest to the other seam, I didn’t fasten off, I just wove the working yarn through the top edge of the bottom part of the opening, and actually cinched / gathered the stitches a bit to make the opening more sturdy.

Fasten off and weave in ends. The back would look like this…

Arms (make 2):

Row 1: Using tan, ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next 5 sc, turn.

Rows 3–5: repeat row 2, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

Fold arm in half so the first row meets the last row, using the yarn tail, sew along side and top of arm using whip stitch, then sew arm to body along the side, also using whip stitch.

Legs (make 2):

Row 1: Using tan, ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next 5 sc, turn.

Rows 3–7: repeat row 2, leaving a long tail for sewing, fasten off.

Fold leg in half so the first row meets the last row, using the yarn tail, sew along side and top of arm using whip stitch, then sew arm to body along the bottom of body, also using whip stitch.

Tail:

Row 1: ch 12, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in each sc, hdc in each hdc, turn.

Row 3: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in next 2 hdc, sc in each sc, leaving a tail for sewing, fasten off.

Sew tail to edge of bottom park of opening on back using whip stitch, like so.

Ears:

Insert hook through a stitch on the side of the head.

Pull up a loop of yarn and secure yarn.

Insert hook in a stitch to the left.

Pull up a loop, then yo and pull through both loops on hook, thus making an sc. Make 4 more sc in the same stitch, then sl st in a stitch to the left in head.

Repeat for the other ear on the other side of head.

Embroider eyes, nose and mouth with acrylic yarn. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ta-da!

As usual, let me know if you have any questions about the pattern! 

Special thanks to the nice people at Yarn Canada for thinking of me and sending the yarn :) Please do check out their website if you live in Canada, free shipping for orders over $45, or flat rate of $5!

Happy crafting!

 

ode to drumheller: albertosaurus!

*Drum roll* the final dinosaur to be unearthed is Alberto the albertosaurus! 

This calls for a dinosaur dance :D

The name Albertosaurus honours Alberta, the Canadian province in which the first fossils of this dinosaur was found the same year that the province was established, in 1905! (source) This whole series of mystery tiny dinosaurs is also inspired by our trip to Drumheller, Alberta, so I thought it’d be fitting to wrap up the series with the Albertosaurus.

I made them with bulky yarn and 4 mm hook. I have this variegated yarn that I thought would be perfect, and then thought it would also look rad in bright pink :D

While the Albertosaurus looks very much like Tyrannosaurus Rex, it is about half the size of T-Rex. Nevertheless, it was a fearsome dinosaur that hunted in packs. (source)

Unlike other dinosaurs in the series, which have the same features on both sides, Alberto is a one-sided dinosaur, because of the way the legs are made, so it won’t look quite right on the back side, but it would make a nice brooch or ornament.

The design is based on the Albertosaurus on the back of the ticket for Tyrrell Museum :D

This dinosaur is probably the most complicated of all in the series because of the legs. But there are lots of process photos so I hope that helps! If you need any clarifications please feel free to leave a comment!

You’ll need:

  • Small amount of Bulky weight yarn
  • 4 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Black seed bead, black sewing thread and sewing needle

(You can also use worsted weight yarn and 3.5 mm hook for a smaller dinosaur)

Pattern:

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc around).

Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] five times, 2 sc in next sc, sl st in next sc (17 sc and 1 sl st around).

Head/neck:

ch 7, [yo twice, pull up a loop] three times in 4th ch from hook, yo and pull through 4 loops on hook, yo and pull through the rest of the loops on hook (4 tr tog completed), ch 1, 4 sc around last tr made, it will look like this…

sl st in next ch in neck, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, hold body in half, sk next sc in body, sl st in next 6 sc in body/back of the dinosaur through both loops and both layers of the body piece, don’t fasten off and continue on to tail.

Tail: ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, sl st in a stitch at the tip of the folded body piece, like so…

Don’t fasten off, continue on to make legs.

Front leg:

Holding the dinosaur belly side up, insert hook into a stitch in round 2 of body, next to where the last sl st was made, and bring the hook out 2 stitches from where the hook was inserted in round 2 of body, like so…

yo and pull through loop on hook. It will look like this.

yo and pull through loop on hook again, so it looks like this…

See there’s a long vertical strand of yarn made, essentially a very elongated sc. Work 2 dc tog around this vertical strand, like so…

This makes the thigh! :D

ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop in next 2 ch, then pull the last loop on hook through the other 2 loops on hook, sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, don’t fasten off and continue on to back leg.

Back leg:

Insert hook from the bottom (a stitch in round 1) of body to a stitch in round 2 of body in the back, like so…

yo and pull through loop on hook. There will be a vertical strand of yarn made like the one in front leg. sl st around the vertical strand in back, then continue to make the leg with the front facing you. It will look like this from the front.

ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop in next 2 ch, pull last loop on hook through the other 2 loops on hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in the vertical strand…

ch 1, pull out a 20″ length of yarn, cut yarn.

Arms:

Thread yarn tail in tapestry needle, insert needle in the underside of body, and out in the front of body where the arm would be, like so…

Remove the needle. From the front of the body, insert hook where the yarn tail came out and draw up a loop. It will look like this.

ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, remove hook and pull out the yarn tail.

Using the hook, pull the yarn tail to the back of body where the other yarn would be, insert hook where the yarn tail came out, draw up a loop, like so…

ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch, pull up a loop in next 2 ch, pull last loop on hook through the 2 other loops on hook, remove hook and pull out yarn tail.

Thread yarn tail through tapestry needle, insert needle at the beginning of the back arm and come out through a stitch at the top in the back, fasten off, weave in end. Sew on eye. Rawr.

I hope you enjoyed this series! Don’t forget to share your dino pics by:

 

  • Bloggers: leaving a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagrammers: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Ravellers: joining the Ravelry group and posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

There will be a virtual dino party with all your pictures in the near future, stay tuned! :D

 

You can find all the other mystery dino CAL posts here:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

Bronwyn the Brontosaurus

Nessie the Plesiosaurus

Kintaro the Pterosaur

 

Have a rawring week, everyone! :D

 

 

mystery dino CAL: pterosaur!

Can’t believe we’re at the second last episode of mystery dino CAL already! This week’s dinosaur is Kintaro the pterosaur!

Pterosaur is technically a flying reptile and not a dinosaur, but that doesn’t make it any less iconic in our collective imagination of the prehistoric world! The word pterosaur literally means “winged-lizard”, the largest of this species had a wingspan as wide as a small plane. It is believed that they could fly as soon as they are hatched, and ate small fish and could filter small fish from water with teeth like those of whales. (source)

Kintaro, on the other hand, means “golden boy” in Japanese, and is a hero of extraordinary strengths and friends of animals in Japanese folklore :) (source)

The construction for Kintaro is a bit more complicated than other dinosaurs because of the wings, it’s a good next step in level of crochet challenge if you have been crocheting along! If you are new to the series, this is still not too difficult and there are some photos to guide you along, and you can find all the other dinosaurs here.

You’ll need:

  • A bit of worsted weight yarn
  • 3.5 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Black thread, sewing needle, and seed beads for eyes

Pattern:

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc around).

Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] five times, 2 sc in next sc, sl st in next sc (17 sc and 1 sl st around).

Neck and head:

ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in next ch, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in next ch, pull through all loops on hook (head made), ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch, hdc in the same ch as second half of the head (skull crest made), sc in next 2 ch of neck, continue on to wings…

Wings, tail and leg:

The rows of the wings run perpendicular to the body.

With body piece folded in half, sl st in first 2 sc of back after the neck through both layers of body. 

Then, ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, skip next sc in body, working in the front loops of the front layer of body only, sl st in next 2 sc in body, turn.

sc in next 4 sc of wing, sl st in next sc, turn.

Skip first sc, sl st in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sl st in next sc in body through front loops only, pull up a very long loop of yarn — I used 1.5 of a human wingspan’s length — and cut yarn.

Using tapestry needle and the long yarn tail, sew together the back towards the neck, through the remaining back loops of the front piece of body, and the back loops of the back piece of body, like so…

Remove the needle and using the long yarn tail, pull up a loop in the stitch to the right of the second sl st on body after the neck, like so…

Repeat pattern for wing.

sl st through both loops and both layers of body in next sc in body after the second wing, sl st in the last sc in body, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in the last sc in body (tail made), sl st in a stitch between the 2nd and 3rd round of body towards the underside of the body, ch 4, fasten off (one leg made).

Other leg:

Attach yarn to back of the body in the stitch between the 2nd and 3rd round, same as where the first leg is attached. ch 4, fasten off.

Weave in ends. Trim the yarn tails on the end of the legs and fray them a bit so they look like claws. Sew on eyes. And it’s done!

Here’s Kintaro flying over Mike’s head reminding him to work hard ^_^; 

 

To recap, here are the mystery dino CAL posts so far:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

Bronwyn the Brontosaurus

Nessie the Plesiosaurus

 

Share your dinosaur pics by:

  • Bloggers: leaving a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagrammers: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Ravellers: joining the Ravelry group and posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

 

Stay tuned for the grand finale of the mystery dino CAL! :D Happy weekend everyone!

 

mystery dino CAL: plesiosaurus!

 

The 5th dinosaur is Nessie the Plesiosaurus!

The name plesiosaurus derives from Greek words for “almost-lizard”. Contrary to popular imagination, plesiosaurus were not great swimmers and could not breathe underwater. It also laid eggs and buried them in soft sand like sea turtles. It measured twice as long as a horse, and weighted twice as much as a pig. (source)

Here are two Nessies bobbing along in the ocean. The larger blue version is made with bulky weight yarn and 4 mm hook, and the pale green version is made with the usual worsted weight yarn and 3.5 mm hook.

As you may notice, plesiosaurus is crocheted mostly the same as brontosaurus, but with flippers. I took some process pictures to show you how I got the flippers on :D

I used:

  • Small amount of worsted weight yarn
  • 3.5 mm hook
  • 2.5 mm hook (optional, but it’s easier for weaving in ends)
  • Sewing needle, black thread and seed beads for eyes

Pattern:

Make body, neck and tail the same as brontosaurus, as follows.

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc).

Round 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] six times (18 sc).

Round 4: sc in next 17 sc, sl st in next sc, don’t fasten off.

Neck & head: ch 8, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in the 3rd ch from hook, pull through all loops on hook, ch 1 (popcorn stitch made), 2 sc in the same ch as popcorn stitch, 1 sc in each ch down the neck, continue on to back of the dinosaur…

Back: Fold body in half, skip the sc immediately next to the neck ch (on both sides), sl st in next sc and each sc through both layers of body across back, continue on to tail…

Tail: sl st in last st through both layers on back, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in last 2 ch of tail, sl st in a space between the 3rd and 4th round in the body (belly part of the dinosaur). Fasten off.

Flippers:

ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc and hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, pull yarn through loop, leaving a tail 18″-20″ long, cut yarn. It will look like this.

With right side facing, insert hook from the back of the dinosaur into a stitch where you want to position the first set of flippers, between the 2nd and 3rd rounds of body, like so…

Then, pull the yarn tail of the flipper just made through the body, like so…

With the wrong side of the dinosaur facing and the dinosaur positioned upside down, insert hook through the body again in the same stitch, then pull up a loop using the yarn tail, like so…

Then, ch 5, and continue with stitches for the other flipper.

After the last sl st made in flipper, pull out yarn tail, and weave it into the body through the same stitch where the flippers are attached.

Repeat as the start of the other flippers.

With right side facing and the dinosaur right side up, insert hook from the back in a stitch between rounds 2 and 3 of body, where you want to position the other set of flippers, like so…

Repeat as the other set of flippers.

Sew on eyes, and we’re done! :)

 

To recap, here are the mystery dino CAL posts so far:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

Bronwyn the Brontosaurus

 

Make a splash with your dinosaur pics by:

  • Leaving a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagram: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Joining the Ravelry group
  • Posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

 

Hope everyone is having a great weekend! :D

 

mystery dino CAL: brontosaurus!

Meet Bronwyn the brontosaurus!

Brontosaurus means thunder lizard! And this crocheted dino is named Bronwyn after the girl with mighty strength and the kindest heart in Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children :)

Here the Brontosaurus are enjoying a peaceful moment sharing a snack of ferns. 

It was one of the largest creatures ever walked on earth, yet lived entirely on plants. In defense, its tail could produce a sound louder than the firing of a cannon when it was cracked like a bullwhip! (source)

But I picture brontosaurus living peacefully among trees, eating plants most of the time.

Because of the way the yarn twists in crochet stitches, the neck of the dinosaur tends to twist and not stay flat. I would suggest using a stiff-feeling heavy worsted (like acrylic) or even bulky weight yarn to help maintain its shape.

To make your own peaceful dinosaur friend, you will need:

  • A bit of worsted weight yarn in main colour
  • A length of worsted weight yarn in contrasting colour, for the spots
  • 3.5 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Black seed beads, for eyes
  • Sewing needle and black thread

Pattern:

By now, you probably notice that all the mystery dino patterns follow the same dumpling base, with slight modifications for the prominent features of the different dinosaurs. So for the brontosaurus, it is its long neck! But the body is the same as the other dinosaurs in the series. If you’re new to the CAL, visit the first dinosaur of the series, stegosaurus, for a photo tutorial of crocheting the body, tail and the legs! 

The body begins as a circle.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc).

Round 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] six times (18 sc).

*Note that the last round is different from previous dinosaurs!*

Round 4: sc in next 17 sc, sl st in next sc, don’t fasten off.

Neck & head: ch 8, [yo, pull up a loop] twice in the 3rd ch from hook, pull through all loops on hook, ch 1 (popcorn stitch made), 2 sc in the same ch as popcorn stitch, 1 sc in each ch down the neck, continue on to back of the dinosaur…

Back: Fold body in half, skip the sc immediately next to the neck ch (on both sides), sl st in next sc and each sc through both layers of body across back, continue on to tail…

Tail: sl st in last st through both layers on back, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in last 2 ch of tail, sl st in a space between the 3rd and 4th round in the body (belly part of the dinosaur). Remove hook and pull out the loop. Pull through enough yarn so that you have a 12″ tail. Cut yarn.

Hind leg: Thread the yarn tail through the tapestry needle, weave the needle through the belly of the dinosaur so that the needle comes out through a stitch between the 2nd and 3rd rounds of body in the front. Pull the yarn tail through, remove the needle. Insert hook through the stitch where the yarn tail came through. Pull up a loop using the yarn tail. 

ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, remove hook and pull the yarn tail out.

Thread the yarn tail through the tapestry needle again, insert needle in a stitch between 1st and 2nd round in body, then come out in a stitch between 1st and 2nd round in body in the front on the opposite side.

Front leg: Work as the same as hind leg, as follows: remove needle, insert hook through the stitch where the yarn tail came through, pull up a loop with the yarn tail. ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull out yarn tail, thread yarn tail back in tapestry needle, insert needle through a stitch between 2nd and 3rd round of body, then come out near the top on the back of the piece, fasten off.

Using contrasting colour yarn and tapestry needle, make French knots on body for spots.

Using black seed beads, sewing needle and thread, attach eyes. Weave in all ends.

Woohoo! That wasn’t too hard, right?

 

To recap, here are the mystery dino CAL posts so far:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Trixie the Triceratops

 

Don’t forget to share your dinosaur pics by:

  • Emailing genuinemudpie[at]gmail[dot]com
  • Bloggers: leave a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagram: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Joining the Ravelry group
  • Posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

 

Stay peculiar, friends! :)

 

mystery dino CAL: triceratops!

This week’s feature dinosaur is everyone’s favourite vegetarian — Trixie Triceratops! Yes, she is named after the dinosaur toy down the street from Toy Story 3 :D

I made both versions of Trixie with a heavy worsted / bulky yarn and a 4 mm hook, because I’ve always had the idea that it’s a chunky kind of dinosaur. So the finished dinosaur is slightly larger than the other dinosaurs we have been making. The head of a triceratops is 1/3 of its total length! So I’ve also made the body a bit smaller.

Triceratops is named for the 3 horns on its head (literally means “3-horned face”), so it was important to get this feature right, and I spent quite some time figuring out a way to make the horns look like they are seamlessly attached to the head. I’m quite happy with the way it turned out and it’s actually not difficult to do :)

Materials:

  • A bit of heavy worsted or bulky weight yarn for body and head
  • A bit of sport weight yarn in white, for horns
  • 4 mm hook
  • 2.5 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Sewing needle, black thread, 4 mm round black bead (if you don’t have that, the regular black seed bead would look fine too)
  • Fabric glue (optional)

Pattern:

The body, tail and legs of triceratops is the same as stegosaurus, except that it has one less round on the body, and skips the head. Check out the stegosaurus pattern page for photo tutorial especially on how to make the legs! But I’ll write the entire pattern below so it’s easy.

The body begins as a circle, and with larger hook and main colour.

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd sc from hook, don’t join in round.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc).

Round 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] six times (18 sc).

Fold piece in half, sl st across back of dinosaur through both layers until last sc, don’t fasten off.

Tail: sl st in last st through both layers on back, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in last 2 ch of tail, sl st in a space between the 3rd and 4th round in the body (belly part of the dinosaur). Remove hook and pull out the loop. Pull through enough yarn so that you have a 12″ tail. Cut yarn.

Hind leg: Thread the yarn tail through the tapestry needle, weave the needle through the belly of the dinosaur so that the needle comes out through a stitch between the 2nd and 3rd rounds of body in the front. Pull the yarn tail through, remove the needle. Insert hook through the stitch where the yarn tail came through. Pull up a loop using the yarn tail. 

ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, remove hook and pull the yarn tail out.

Thread the yarn tail through the tapestry needle again, insert needle in a stitch between 1st and 2nd round in body, then come out in a stitch between 1st and 2nd round in body in the front on the opposite side.

Front leg: Work as the same as hind leg, as follows: remove needle, insert hook through the stitch where the yarn tail came through, pull up a loop with the yarn tail. ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, pull out yarn tail, thread yarn tail back in tapestry needle, insert needle through a stitch between 2nd and 3rd round of body, then come out near the top on the back of the piece, fasten off.

Head: 

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, don’t join in the round.

Round 2: 1 sc in every sc around (6 sc).

Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc] three times (9 sc).

Round 4: hdc in next sc, *[dc, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, dc] in next sc*, * to * will be known as the “V-stitch”. Repeat V-stitch in next 2 sc, hdc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sl st in next st, pull out a long yarn tail for sewing, cut yarn. 

Horns:

Using white yarn and smaller hook, and leaving a 3″ tail, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 2 ch, fasten off, leaving a 3″ tail.

You will end up with something that looks like this — 2 longer (forehead) horns separated by ch 3, and a shorter (nose) horn separated from one of the longer horns by ch 4.

Remember the V-stitch in the last round (round 4) of the head? Insert smaller hook (or an even smaller hook if you have one) into the base of the first V-stitch you made in round 4 (the V-stitch on the most right when you’re facing it), then insert tip of the hook through a loop at the top of the forehead horn on the right. Pull the horn through the stitch in head.

Then, insert hook into the base of the last V-stitch made in round 4 (the V-stitch on the most left when you’re facing it). Insert tip of the hook through a loop at the top of the remaining forehead horn, pull the horn through the stitch in head. 

Finally, insert hook into a space between two sc’s in round 1 of head, then insert tip of the hook through a loop at the top of the nose horn, pull the horn through the stitch in head.

Tie the yarn tails of the horns together. You can put some fabric glue at the stitches where the horns were pulled through inside the head to secure them more, but that’s optional.

Here’s a close up of the head so you can see how the horns are positioned…

Now we sew the head to the body. (When I took process pictures I forgot to put the horns on before sewing the head to the body, hence the head without horns in these pictures. That makes sewing on the horns more difficult — but not impossible — I would still suggest sewing on the horns first before attaching head to body)

Thread the tapestry needle through the yarn tail left on head. We’re attaching the base of the head to the nub on the neck end of the body.

You’re folding the head piece in half, and the head will sandwich the “neck” part of the body, like so. Stitch through all layers a few times, then fasten off.

Sew the eye right below the forehead horn. Weave in all the ends. And here she is, in Trixie colours! :D

 

To recap, here are the mystery dino CAL posts so far:

Mystery dino CAL intro post

Stu the Stegosaurus

Dmitri the Dimetrodon

Don’t forget to share your dinosaur pics by:

  • Emailing genuinemudpie[at]gmail[dot]com
  • Bloggers: leave a comment on any of the Mystery Dino CAL posts with a link to your blog post with the picture.
  • Instagram: tag me @genuinemudpie and use the hashtag #mysterydinocal
  • Joining the Ravelry group
  • Posting your FOs to my Ravelry dino project pages!

 

Have a beautiful week everyone! :D